Bottom paint on rudder, prop, etc?

[sheral]

Last year when I pulled the boat (R21-EC) from the chuck, there was quite a bit of growth on the prop and on the sea water intake grate too. Both look to be made of a bronze type material?

So question is, should, or could a person use bottom paint on the sea water intake grate, prop and rudder (being careful to not clog the sea water intake grating, and the pivot points on the prop and rudder)?

If so, I suspect a good sanding of the parts with emery cloth, washing with a solvent and then using a primer before the bottom paint would be best?

Thanks gang.

 

[baz]

I can't see that doing any of those things can hurt. Many people bottom paint their trim tabs to help avoid growth.

Although I'd steer away from putting bottom paint on the prop. I think it would shed pretty quickly with its rotation in the water.

 

[sheral]

Thanks Baz. Ya I was wondering about that too. However, I did paint the side thruster last year and it was clean as a baby’s bottom when I pulled it out. Granted it is only used on occasion, versus the full time spinning of the prop. The prop growth actually got to the point I could feel a vibration at certain rpms... maybe i just will need to dive and clean the prop every two months or so...

 

[baz]

What portion if the bow thruster did you bottom paint ?

The new 2018 R-27 uses a bow thruster that is all composite material and therefore requires no anode. 😱 😀

If you get growth on the prop it tells me you're not using the boat that often.... On my R-25 (Classic) and R-21EC I never had an issue of growth on the prop.

Yep.... diving would be a good option.

 

[NorthernFocus]

It's pretty common practice to paint anything below the WL that paint will stick to. Even if you paint the cooling water intake grate you can still have problems due to marine growth inside the through hull fitting.

 

[sheral]

Actually we used our boat at least every second day from June through September. I was really surprised to see all the growth on the prop when we pulled it, as the first year we had basically nothing but some slime on the propeller.

I may try Alumi-coat spray on the prop, and rudder. I would rather use the brush on ‘alumi-coat’ but you can’t get it here in Canada. The Alumi-coat is for all non-ferrous metals so it would make sense to use it on the prop and sea water intake grate especially.

I painted just the bow thruster prop last year. It seemed to work really well. No growth at all. That’s why I was wondering about using bottom paint on other areas too.

What a great idea to use a composite material for the blades on the new thrusters! Makes sense.

🙂

 

[sheral]

It's pretty common practice to paint anything below the WL that paint will stick to. Even if you paint the cooling water intake grate you can still have problems due to marine growth inside the through hull fitting.

Copy, thanks. The sea water intake grate looks like a bit of a bear to disassemble. Appears you have to ‘half it’ taking both the below hull and inside hull pieces apart. Guess if it needs to be done at some point it will. So far I have just scraped it with a metal putty knife and pulled everything through the fitting (from the bottom) with needle nose pliers. Looks nice and clean right now and the water flow continued to be sufficient through the end of last season.

 

[knotflying]

I use cold galvanized paint on my running gear (prop, rudder, trim tab plates) and bottom paint on any other thing below water. Cold Galvanized paint is similar to Pettit's running gear (Barnacle Barrier) paint, but you can brush it on and it is less expensive.

 

[sheral]

I use cold galvanized paint on my running gear (prop, rudder, trim tab plates) and bottom paint on any other thing below water. Cold Galvanized paint is similar to Pettit’s running gear (Barnacle Barrier) paint, but you can brush it on and it is less expensive.

Nice. I will check to see if it’s available up this way. Thanks.

 

[sheral]

I think ‘cold galvanized’ paint is the same as the Alumacoat I have. Anyway, I sanded the prop and rudder really well with emery cloth. Washed it down with a marine cleaner and applied two spray coats today. I gotta start making notes on my yearly check lists as it may help the following year on what processes worked / didn’t work. Must be getting old ...

 

[doke01]

You just have to be careful about which paint you use. I paint the thrusters, prop, and rudder every year. We use Aquagard water based paint and it works excellent in our area. There is no deterioration of the brass either and it doesn't come off of the prop unless you touch sandy bottom 🙂.

I cut off the grate to the raw water intake. Barnacles and other blockages were causing too many issues. I also replaced the 90 degree elbow to the ball valve with a straight through. Now, with the boat in the water, if anything gets into the raw water intake (including barnacles, sea grass, whatever), I disconnect the hose on the inside, insert a wooden dowel, and open the ball valve and push the dowel through to clean our any blockage. I was fed up one year when a bunch of sea grass was sucked into the inlet and I had to spend two hours in chest deep water in the middle of nowhere clearing it.

I was also doing some reading on solo, round the world sailors and they also cut off the grating for the same reason I stated above. It was good to find that kind of confirmation.

 

[BB marine]

I used a three step paint process to all the under water metal components except the prop. First an etching/metal protectant Pettit #6455 , this seals and helps prevent corrosion 1 thin coat. Second A barrier coat/Tie coat primer is applied Pettit 6627 to the components so that there are no effects to the metal from the antifouling paint. I applied two even coats. Third antifouling paint. I applied Pettit Vivid bottom paint Three thin coats. I notice a slight bit of slime on the boat hull and trim tabs each week, go out for a cruise and it cleans off.
Brian Brown
26 Cutwater
PORT-A-GEE

 

[sheral]

You just have to be careful about which paint you use. I paint the thrusters, prop, and rudder every year. We use Aquagard water based paint and it works excellent in our area. There is no deterioration of the brass either and it doesn't come off of the prop unless you touch sandy bottom 🙂.

I cut off the grate to the raw water intake. Barnacles and other blockages were causing too many issues. I also replaced the 90 degree elbow to the ball valve with a straight through. Now, with the boat in the water, if anything gets into the raw water intake (including barnacles, sea grass, whatever), I disconnect the hose on the inside, insert a wooden dowel, and open the ball valve and push the dowel through to clean our any blockage. I was fed up one year when a bunch of sea grass was sucked into the inlet and I had to spend two hours in chest deep water in the middle of nowhere clearing it.

I was also doing some reading on solo, round the world sailors and they also cut off the grating for the same reason I stated above. It was good to find that kind of confirmation.

Would you be able to post a pic of what you mean by ‘cutting off the raw water intake grate? Thanks.

 

[sheral]

I used a three step paint process to all the under water metal components except the prop. First an etching/metal protectant Pettit #6455 , this seals and helps prevent corrosion 1 thin coat. Second A barrier coat/Tie coat primer is applied Pettit 6627 to the components so that there are no effects to the metal from the antifouling paint. I applied two even coats. Third antifouling paint. I applied Pettit Vivid bottom paint Three thin coats. I notice a slight bit of slime on the boat hull and trim tabs each week, go out for a cruise and it cleans off.
Brian Brown
26 Cutwater

PORT-A-GEE

Thanks for the pictures. Looks like a good product / process. I just may look into those products and have them ready for this years winterization process.

 

[Rwnorton]

For info, My dealer exprimented on my Tug with a product called Propglide. There was no growth after 6 months in SC waters.

 

[sheral]

For info, My dealer exprimented on my Tug with a product called Propglide. There was no growth after 6 months in SC waters.

Thanks. I have been hearing good things about Propglide.