bow thruster issue

Capt’nKarl

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Messages
624
Fluid Motion Model
C-242 C
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2330I718
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Previous R-21EC
Vessel Name
DRAGONFLY
Just curious to see if anyone has had this issue with their thruster control and if anyone has a fix. I went to use the bow thruster and noticed the ON button light was already ON. I had not pushed the two buttons as usual. When I pushed the OFF button down the ON light stays on. I pushed and held the OFF button but could not get the ON light to turn off. The thruster works normally when you toggle port and starboard but the button to turn off the thruster does not turn off the unit. The 'ON' button stays on all the time although I can still turn the unit off at the breaker.

Thanks for any advice.

Karl
 
Karl,
When you reset the breaker, does the ON light remain lighted?
 
When the bow thruster breaker is turned off and then turned back on the ON light on the control comes back on.
 
Note: Karl replied to me via PM stating the light remained on after the breaker was reset.

Karl,
It sounds like the Control Panel, the part with the joy stick, may be at fault. The Side Power Bowthruster is warranted for two years. If it is still under warranty, contact Ranger Tugs to get a replacement. Previous posts indicate users have difficulty getting assistance from Side Power unless the user goes through Ranger Tugs.

If your bowthruster is out of warranty, I recommend you still contact Ranger for a replacement control panel. The panel costs $280 🙁 . The factory may be able to help you get a deal. I did find one for sale on ebay for $110 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Side-Power-Bow-Thruster-Control-Panel-/200945784637. According to Side Power, all control panels are interchangeable. Some control panels have a joy stick and some have switches instead of the stick. I would prefer a stick.

If you are handy with electrical wiring, you could make a panel for less than $30. It would not have an automatic shut off, but would be simple to make. You would just need a small box, an on/off power switch, a spring loaded 2 position toggle switch, a little wire, and the cable/connector from the old control panel. There is a wiring diagram in the manual.
 
It is hard to get to but, go to the bow thruster and check the wiring. Paying close attention to the plugs on the wiring harness. You may have a broken or corroded connection. Just a thought.
 
Karl,

On Ladybug, Too we had the same issue after getting hit through the shore power with a lightning surge. The joy stick panel has a small PC board in the forward joy stick that talks to two interface modules (also PC's) in the bow and stern thrusters like a mini "network". Failure of any one of the components will cause the light to stay on. The interface modules are pretty tough but the joy stick PC is not as tough. We replaced the joy sticks and the bow thruster interface module and were back in business. It is a "plug and play" installation. We also upgraded the thruster battery to a XXHD27 with 1000 cold crank amps. Makes a big difference.

Pat & Carolyn, Ladybug, Too
 
Ladybug Too - you stated you replaced your thruster battery with the XXHD27 with 1000 cold crank amps. Can I assume these are wet cell batteries? I have the original batteries in my 25SC (2011 year) and the thruster battery is a group 27 deep cycle. Never had an issue with it and I was wondering how it made a big difference when you did the replacement. I will probably be replacing my batteries start of next season and will stick with wet cell so any info will be appreciated.

Thanks, Jim
STELLA
 
Jim,

The improvement in performance was impressive. We are using the Exide Nautilus XXHD27 lead acid battery. Our volt meter on the instrument panel shows about 15 percent less voltage drop since the change. Cost was 150 bucks plus some change.

Pat & Carolyn, Ladybug, Too
 
Pat, thanks for the response. I will surely make the XXHD27 you mentioned part of my "research" when I have to change batteries. My biggest concern has been the cabin batteries at night as we are on the hook 80 to 90 percent of the time. Will change out the anchor lite to an LED but still have the refrigerator to contend with. I try to avoid getting below 12.2 and fully charge each day so the batteries last. Notice, I say "try" as I am not in a position every day to bring them up to full charge.

Jim and Karyn
STELLA
 
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