BRAIT LINE

L

Lobo

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2008
Messages
290
Fluid Motion Model
C-248 C
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2562J708
Vessel Name
Lobo
MMSI Number
316013957
It's time to replace my anchor rode for my R-25. I'm considering 1/2" 8-strand brait line (Yale Cordage, I expect). I think this would be a nice Christmas present from my wife to me.

Is anybody using this line? I'd appreciate your comments.

Dave
"Lobo"
 
I have used 8 plait line. Is that what you are referring to? If it is, I used it on my former boat and will be using it on my new R-27. I like it a lot. It lays very flat in the locker and does not get stiff and knotty when it gets used over time.
 
Check out your windlass first. Some cannot get a good "grip" on a braided line and require the three strand rougher version. Yes it's nice and smooth and easy on the hands but some windlass's don't like it.

Charlie
 
If your windlass works well with three strand now, why change to 8-plait? If you need new three strand, in my experience the best anchor line is New England Ropes:

http://www.neropes.com/product.aspx?mid ... d=6&pid=25

Long lasting quality stuff, much better than two other brands I've used, and easy to splice to chain.
 
One thing that I like about three strand is I can splice it to my chain easily. I am not sure it would be so easy with eight strand. At least I have not learned how to do that yet.
I use my anchor so much that I end up cutting 10' off of it twice a year due to a little fraying and re-splice it to the chain.
I never let much line out for I have 100' of chain. I will just let about 5' of line out to keep from hearing the chain in the bow roller.
Now of course If i was in deep enough water where I needed to let the line out I would let out more.
 
I like 8-plait rode, it doesn't twist and lays much flatter than 3-strand. I carry 300' of rode and 50' of chain and it lays very well in Traveler. I still need to clear it out by hand occasionally if we have a lot out but I think you would have to do that more with 3-strand. The first time I bought 8-plait I bought 200' of rode with 20' of chain and it all fit in a 5 gallon bucket, and, it lays better as it is used.
 
Yes that looks pretty easy. Not as easy as the three strand but very doable.
It was sites like that, where I learned to do the three strand chain splice.
Good work!
 
I had to do an eye splice and end splice when I was in the Boy Scouts. I wasn't very good at it and did not remember how to do it. I guess I wasn't destined to be a boatswain mate. I just buy pre-spliced stuff now. I guess there are times where it comes in handy to have the ability to splice.
 
Hi Dave,

I have just spent much time obsessing over this very issue along with what anchor is best for a R25. I found this paper useful:
http://www.yalecordage.com/pdf/anchoring_tech.pdf in describing the advantages of Yale Cordage 8-plait rode, not the least of which is that it takes about 2/3 less space in your locker than three-strand. Based on information from Tugnuts I opted for a Rocna anchor (there is more about that if you search this web site) and I found the best price on 8 plait line with an integrated HT chain at Defender. I bought 25' of 1/4" HT chain pre-spliced onto 275' of 1/2" 8 plait line at Defender for $250: http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=1018594 Defender will adjust chain and rode length to whatever you want, and I found them the cheapest. Don't forget to wet your line (salt or fresh water is fine) before running it thru the windlass. I also added a swivel and don't forget locking SS wire: http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=685645 locking wire for $3. 1/2" is plenty of holding strength and 300' length (although some would say the chain length is the minimum) for rode for a R25 in all conditions. Like CaptD I plan to add a small Fortress 7 lb Fx-11 w attached rode hanging from the bow rail for emergencies, etc.
 
On the use of swivels on anchor rode, for what it is worth, I have read many posts on various sites that talk about the expensive anchor they lost because the swivel failed. I believe the weakest link on the rode (chain) would be the swivel. IMHO....If you have a good anchor such as a Rocna, I do not see where a swivel would be needed. I sure would be mad if I lost an expensive Rocna to a $20 swivel.
 
Thanks to all you who responded to my enquiry.

* I have more information now, so why can't I make the decision? Soon, I expect.
* I've got a swivel on my anchor; I think I had better pay some attention to it.
* I have a Rochna anchor. Love it! I do a lot of race committee work which involves lots of anchoring and moving and reanchoring, and almost always it's just drop it and it sets.
* My spare is a Fortress. I carry it disassembled in the port side cockpit locker along with a bucket with chain and line. The wrench I need to assemble the anchor is taped to the shaft. It takes less than 5 minutes to assemble the anchor and hook up the rode.

Again -- thanks for your comments.


Dave
 
FWIW, there are no marinas, docks or public moorings in my cruising ground so we are either moving or anchored. I started with no swivel, but was advised that as the boat swings and the chain rolls across the seabed the chain twists and snarls and that an anchor swivel reduces this. I bought the biggest, baddest all forged stainless swivel I could find. (My boat checks in at about 40,000 pounds when loaded for cruising and I use a 60 lb. CQR and all 3/8 HT chain.) After two seasons I determined that on nearly every occasion that the anchor came up fouled in any way it was because the swivel had flipped over on itself and it wass the devil's own to correct it. I tossed the swivel and have had virtually no more problems. Just one man's experience .....
 
Hmmm, considering Rick's thought above following my previous post––I think I may lose the swivel, or at least rethink spending more money for a better one. Going cheap on the weakest link in the system isn't smart for the $300 anchor -or- the $100,000+ boat attached to the other end of the rode!
Jerry
 
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