Broken wire to solenoid/ transmission

Puffin1

Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2016
Messages
10
Fluid Motion Model
C-248 C
Hull Identification Number
USFMLR2509H
Vessel Name
Puffin
Just got TowBoatUS tow back to our marina after we lost forward movement while underway. Anyone else have a wire come loose to the solenoid for the transmission? We did a temporary on the water emergency fix which got us about 8 miles closer to home, when it broke again. Had to drop anchor and call for help. Ranger Tug 25 SC, 2014
 
You don’t carry spare wires on the boat along with the means to attach them?
 
I have seen this issue a few times. If you cannot reconnect electrically you can engage it manually I have not personally Donne it, but there is a , I think Allen screw, that can be turned in to engage the gear. Additionally the design has been changed to protect the connections much better.
 
Which engine/transmission do you have? Where is the solenoid?
 
This is an issue of concern for me. The two solenoids and wires are susceptible to corrosion because of the location of the packing gland. I maintain the packing gland adjustment to 2 to 3 drips a minute and have only had to make 2 small adjustments in 400 hrs. When I am running at slow cruise speed 2250rpm I see a few drips per minute. When I am running up to a higher RPM 3200 I don't see the drips anymore, what I do see is an occasional mist or spray being slung from the gland. This is normal for shaft packing glands to do. The issue with the Ranger and Cutwater install is the gland is very close to the reverse gear. In most installations the gland is at least 1' back some even further from the reverse gear. If running in salt water the occasional mist or spray coats the reverse gear with a mist of salt water that quickly evaporates from the temperature in the compartment and engine. This can cause an eventual failure to the solenoids and the connections. If the packing is leaking more than 2 to 3 drips a minute this mist or spray can be amplified, atomizing saltwater into the compartment. This can cause corrosion or rust to components located in the compartment. Over the winter I plan on making a shield that will fit over the gland and deflect this mist and spray down where it will drip into the bilge.

The D3 volvo reverse gear can be manually put into gear if electrical connections or solenoid fail. This can be done by removing the bolt directly below the (A marked connector to the solenoid) remove the washer from the bolt and the tighten the bolt. Remove both A and B solenoid connectors from the solenoids. The reverse gear is in FWD and will allow you to get back to a safe harbor.
 
What Brian is saying here is not just academic. On our Alaska trip this summer we met an R-31 owner in Juneau that we invited onboard and were trading tips and ideas. His boat is the Leprechaun (yes, it is green!). I was hoping he would respond to this thread but I don’t know if/how often he checks Tugnuts.

He (Bruce) told me that his solenoid went out not once but twice and left him dead in the water both times, requiring a tow. The first time was because the gland in the stuffing box had been spraying saltwater just as Brian described. He did not at that time know about the emergency procedure for locking the transmission in forward gear. He had the solenoids replaced and the installer, noticing that they were completely unprotected, attempted to pot the contacts in order to protect them. The second time was more frightening. He was on his way to Haida Gwaii, and turned into beam seas. He says there was too much water in the bilge and that the water splashed up onto the engine and the contacts, shorting them out. The potting had evidently cracked with heat and time. As the boat was drifting quickly with wind and current toward reefs and rocks, he tried to replace the solenoid with a spare he had aboard, but it was extremely difficult with the rolling boat, and the old contact crumbled with corrosion. He did try the emergency procedure to lock the boat in forward but it didn’t work for him. He says he just barely missed drifting onto the rocks.

He informed Volvo of these experiences and says he thinks his experience, along with others, is why they added boots for the contacts and more protection for the wires in more recent models. They also have an updated emergency procedure for locking the solenoid in more recent models. That procedure can be found in the owners manual. I have looked at our (2018 model) R-31 and noticed that, though the contacts have boots, the boots do have small cracks in them so I am thinking about some means of additional protection.
 
Super Lube synthetic (dielectric) grease. This stuff is great at protecting electrical connections. Also this stuff is great for O rings as it wont attack the rubber. I'll also coat bare wires to keep oxidation at a minimum.

Stuart
 
The forward solenoid on mine failed. If you don’t have a spare, one can swap the reverse with the forward. You’ll have forward and neutral, but not reverse.
 
The issue of a broken wire to the transmission solenoid is an interesting one and happened a number of years ago to our 2013 R31 tug as we were coming into Port McNeil on Vancouver Island. The solenoid wire broke (corrosion due to salt water spray) right off at the solenoid itself, thus no way to attach a new wire. We got the solenoid replaced and in the interim fastened a simple shield over the packing nut assembly out of ne of those flexible thin chopping mats. Also we spayed the electrical connections at the solenoids with a protective coating. Finally, our engine checks include a visual inspection of these items every time we go out.

Later, when the boat was brought in for other servicing, we added a PSS shaft seal - which is the best solution.

Newer Volvo transmissions in terms of their design offer better protection over their electrical connections at the solenoid.

Frank and Dawn Marie Plumptre
Blue Horizons R31
 
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