C-28 Anchor

B

Bob/Bradenton

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 17, 2019
Messages
101
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Hull Identification Number
FRB02830G001
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Ranger 21 "Martini" Launch
Vessel Name
Buttercup
So, we have been heading out local for day trips/sandbar anchoring here in mid-Gulf Florida. Fairly hard sand bottom in about 6-7’ of water.

Our new us 2019 C-28.

We are finding the the stock “Bruce” style anchor is pretty much useless. Unlike our previous Atlas Acadia 25 which had a more of a sharp spade type anchor, this one bounces along the bottom and does not really feel like it grabs solid. It’s easy to yank back out if you apply a bit of reverse throttle. Probably about 50’ of chain laid out. We would not feel comfortable doing an overnight with this anchor.

So, we’ve been reading all the comments/threads about “anchor upgrades” and it looks like the Mantus Starboard AnchorGuard is added to the existing C-28 bow roller. Not sure why there is a Starboard and a Port style. But they are under $100 either directly from Mantus or other sources like West. I assume the reason for them is to keep the anchor from hitting the nice SS plate on the bow.

And then the anchor. It looks like most choose the Rocna Model 10 (10 kg/22 lb) galvanized.

We don’t want to change the bow roller, just the anchor and add the Guard.

-Does all this fit with the existing C-28 roller and chain?

-We see that “swivels” are offered. I see no particular reason for one, but comments?

A simple switch out, anchor for anchor?

Thanks, Bob/Bradenton
 
Our son n has a C28 and it is equipped with the Rocna 10 and fits fine. We’ve been using Rocna’s for the last 15 years on our boats, they work as we’d like and we do a lot of overnight anchoring……always holds.

Jim F
 
For the Rocna to work properly and easy up and down it requires a Kingston Roller to be installed. The C28 that Jim is speaking of has a Kingston roller and the Rocna works perfect. I too changed from the Bruce to the Rocna and found it to be an automatic drop and set in Florida waters. I installed the Kingston Roller too and adjusted the rollers so it was an easy retrieval as did the boat owner that Jims son purchased his boat from.

Photos of the Kingston roller install.
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=66293

There have been many other owners of C28 that just used the existing roller and made it work. I elected to use the roller that was designed to be used with the Rocna https://kingstonanchors.com/collections ... ts/kr-1015
 
I've got a 2020 C28, upgraded to the Rocna 10, and the Mantus AnchorMate. It's worked very well without any issues without any other mods.
 
Re. Swivels: I wish I could anchor in just 6-7 feet of water! Around the PNW, our water is frequently deeper and as the boat moves around due to tide, wind and current the chain gets a lot of twists and kinks which jam up in the gypsy when retrieving. The swivel aids in preventing and unwinding the twists.

I put on the Mantus S1 on my Rocna 15. The advantage of the Mantus is that should there by side loading on a tightly set anchor, there is less chance of the swivel being broken where it attaches to the anchor. Like everything Mantus makes, it is built nearly indestructible.

Hope you find an anchor that helps you sleep well!
 
Hi Bob,
Very soon after purchasing our 2015 Cutwater 28, it became obvious that we needed a new plan for anchoring. The stock Bruce-style anchor let loose very easily during a nasty thunderstorm. Anchor alarm did it's thing, an I kept us off the rocks.

Replaced with a Rocna 10, added a Mantus Anchor Guard, and a Mantus swivel. It all works fantastic. Only mod I made was to move the roller forward a bit. Otherwise anchor pulls up and retrieves great.

That Rocna 10 grabs like an ex-wife at a wallet. 😀

Good luck!

Red
 
Just an update on our C-28 anchor change-out.

Tried again this weekend to get that stock Bruce style anchor to grab ahold of the hard sandy bottom here in mid-Gulf Florida. Nope, tried four times and it wouldn’t grab so went out a bit further off of Jewfish Key (LBK) and plopped it down in 15’ of water, basically just over the ledge and then backed down. Grabbed but only because it was coming up the side wall of the ledge.

But, ordering a new Rocna 22 pound/10kg this week. The best deal is from West. They will ship it to the store for free and I pick it up. Defender and Fisheries are a couple dollars less but they add on a truck/frt charge. West, I pick it up at the store.

I’ll order the Mantus Anchor Guard (BR1-Starboard) directly from Mantus. $99. West has a lead time and it ships from the factory anyway. And I’ll order the S1 Mantus Anchor Swivel too. This fits the 1/4” - 5/16” chain, $90. (I am assuming that we have 5/16” chain on our C-28’s).

So when all the gear arrives, I’ll put the nose up on the sandbar and assemble the new parts from the beach.

The only other issue is the Lewmar windlass is slipping. Very low hours 2019 boat. Hardly used. The Windlass motor spins but does not engage the Gypsy as soon as there is any load on it. Pulls a bit but then stops. I assume that I just need to tighten the Clutch? I don’t see the adjustment instructions in the manual. Comments and Thanks…Bob/Bradenton
 
It’s worth trying to see if the rocna fits without any modification. Ours fits well in the original bow roller.
 
Yes, sounds like you need to adjust the clutch. There should be a clutch adjustment tool in the bag of manuals, etc., if such was delivered to you with the boat. If not, I think a 3/8” socket wrench or extension should work just as well. If all else fails, just cruise up to Apollo Beach and you can use mine.

Gordon
 
Yup, adjusted the Clutch and she works fine now. I had thought (no instructions) that the 1/2" ratchet (no Lewmar tool) was to fit into the left side (looking forward) where the 1/2" square hole is in the center of the drum. Nope, it's the other side with the three pronged Clutch Nut. Logic. Just stick the ratchet handle into one of the 1/2" prong holes and lightly tighten the Clutch. Note that it still has to do it's job, slip when your anchor has latched onto a rock, but in sand or mud, my tightening seems to do the trick.

I've got Up/Down windlass switches right next to the windlass so I ran all the chain out of the compartment to the shallow bottom. I wanted access to that nice plaited anchor rope. After the chain was removed, I pulled out the rope, spread it out on the deck and washed with fresh water. It was very damp in the compartment from salt water.

And then washed out the compartment which had a considerable amount of dirt, sea weeds and a few ants. Pulled the chain back up in momentary spurts to not to overheat the cables, washing the chain with fresh water as it came back up and into the compartment.

That nice rope is now drying on the deck, ready to hand reload back into the compartment. I noted in one of the threads here is that if you have played out all of your chain and a bunch of the rope, when recovered back into the compartment, the chain falls on top of the pile of rope and becomes stacked very close to the underside of the windlass which can cause the windlass to jam. So, since the chain is now nicely piled at the center of the compartment under the windlass, I can now feed the rope back into the compartment to the left side (hatch side) of the compartment, keeping it out of the way of the chain. Shallow water here so it's not likely that the rope will ever go into the water, just the chain anyway.

Long update but all is well and hope that this helps others...Bob/Bradenton

PS: Back when we had our 40' MT trawler, I used to post on MTOA equally long novels about our how-to's...

PPS: When I run the bow up on the local sandbar beach to change-out the anchors, I'll paint (Rustoleum) markers on the chain at 25', 50' and 75' intervals.
 
Hey Bob,
Different colored small zip ties work as well. I've just got to remember which color means what......which gets harder the older I get! I do keep a cheat sheet at the helm but hide it from the Admiral so it looks like I know what I'm doing.

PS I see you live in Bradenton. I was lucky enough to get all the manuals from the previous owner so if I have one you need let me know. There may be some difference, as I have a 2015 Cutwater, but most should be close.
 
I'll second the colored zip ties. I left the ends sticking out, as opposed to cutting them off, which helps with visibility. I had intended to get a dowel and put matching zip ties on the dowel with the lengths marked as well as my cheat sheet...
 
I too use a Rocna 10 and it works great. While it fits fine on the stock roller the tip of the spade will hit the hull if you are not careful. I simply drilled a new hole 1 inch further forward and remounted the bow roller. Simple fix and works perfectly.
 
All you need to know about anchor selection:

S.V. Panope on Utube

he's done 106 anchor tests to date in sand, soft mud, sand/mud, rocks. He videos what is happening at the bottom using a suspended GoPro. He tests straight pull holding, resetting during a veer and resetting after a 180 degree direction change.
He's had trouble getting Rocnas to reset after a veer or flip. Bottom gets stuck in the roll bar preventing burial.
Also had bad results with Bruces unless they are huge.
Located somewhere in the PNW.
 
For what its worth...I mounted a 35lb Mantus M2 on my 2021 C28 and it fit with the existing bow roller setup. However, since I trailer, it sat too low below the pulpit and would interfere with the bow roller and winch. Phillip at Mantus Marine was very helpful and recommended I print a template of their M1 anchor, which I did. I was able to return the M2 at no shipping expense and they sent me a 35lb Mantus M1 (which is similar in design to the Rocna). I now have the M1 installed with a BR1 Mantus Anchor Guard which holds the anchor fluke firmly and it is about an inch from the hull. I have seen pictures of a Rocna 10 on a C28 and the Mantus 35# appears to fit identically below the pulpit. I would submit photos, but I don't understand the BBCode. For those wanting to compare the Rocna vs. the Mantus, I suggest https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdURE1-X0j8 and for tests with most other anchors watch SV Panope on YouTube for unbiased reviews.
 
I have a c26 and used the mantus M2 model so the curved shaft slides right in without changing the roller. I did buy the mantus anchor mate so it keeps the blade far away from the boat bow. I did replace the mantus anchor mate bumper with a wood block 2 by 4 piece of wood cut 1/16 inch off the side and made it 4 1/2 " long. It does not get even close to the bow now. The rubber bumper started to compress so I replaced it with the block of wood.

here is a link to its operation before I added in the block
https://photos.google.com/u/1/album/AF1 ... qxE2LyY2de
 
I use a 17 lb Mantus M1 when I'm trailering my 2012 C28. Fits the existing bow roller with no modification. Depending on the slope of the launch ramp I do sometimes need to slacken the chain to push the anchor aside to avoid interference with the trailor roller. Properly set the anchor has never failed to hold. I carry a 35 lb Mantus as spare. When I'm cruising PNW waters and Lake Powell I swap the two anchors for the extra holding power of larger anchor. It's a close fit but it rides fine on the water. Getting the boat on trailer with the 35 can be done but takes extra effort.
 
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