C-28 Lewmar 1000 Issue...

B

Bob/Bradenton

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 17, 2019
Messages
101
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Hull Identification Number
FRB02830G001
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Ranger 21 "Martini" Launch
Vessel Name
Buttercup
2019 C-28/75 Hours, Mid-Gulf Florida

Took the boat out for a nice relaxing sunset cruise yesterday evening and the Lewmar 1000 was dead as a door-nail. No response from either the helm or bow switches. No clicks, No whiring...Nothing.

Printed the color C-28 schematic and all that shows is that it is connected to the House Batteries.

Brand new wet cell G-31 batteries (replaced the bad AGM's) reading 12.7 volts. Full electrical power plus when I was trying use the Windlass, the engine was running.

Multimeter test this morning:

-12 volt power to the helm switch, OK.
-12 volt power to the breaker, OK. Breaker works fine. Flap up and down, power ON and OFF.
-12 volt power to the contactor, both main positive and negative sides show full power to the contactor at the big cable terminals.
-Used a jumper cable to directly power the contactor UP and DOWN orange side (+) contactor terminals. The contactor worked fine. And I could hear the Windlass powering UP and powering DOWN. So the Windlass, Breaker and the Contactor work fine.

But neither the helm or bow switches will energize the Windlass. I could see maybe the helm switch being bad but the question here is why are both switches not energizing the Windlass. Are the bow switches in series like a Christmas tree set of lights. The first one (helm) doesn't work and the others (bow) won't work either?

But I've got 12 volt power (red) going to the helm switch. Aside from the orange small wires going to the contactor, what else in the line (based on the trouble-shooting, all the heavy cables seems to be working just fine), can cause both switches not to energize the Windlass.

Thanks, Bob
 
Bob,
Your topic is timely for me as well. We were out last weekend where I went out on the deck, released and lowered my anchor about 5 feet using the foot switches. The winch sounded fine and I stopped it when letting go of the foot switch. Went back to the helm to pay it out with the helm rocker switch while backing down and nothing. Went back on deck..nothing. Checked the breaker in the head and it was not tripped (I pushed the red button and reset it a couple times anyway..nothing. Checked the reset button above the rocker switch and it was not tripped. Ended up using my back up anchor/rode manually deploying and retrieving so thankfully it wasn’t windy that night.

When returning home I have have run similar test e.g. have 12 Volt power to the contactor box, power on the orange wires to the back of the rocker switch (up and down) and all connections look good including the circuit breaker. I have pulled all the chain and rode out of the anchor locker. All wiring looms look great with no evidence of loose wires or where the chain might have snagged.

Only thing I cannot figure out to test is which wires to connect to bypass the contactor box to directly connect the Windlass motor to make sure it is working (electrical is not my forte). My suspicion is it will be fine and nothing is jammed and it sounded great when I let out the 5 feet. My working theory is something must be up with the contactor box but I want to confirm the motor is fine before I start ordering anything. Our situations sound strangely similar so I will be interested in what your learn.
 
There’s a fuse (3-5amp) that is in the circuit for both the foot and helm switches. In my R 29 it is a automotive fuse in a black rubber holder.

Jim Demerest
2010 R29 Chessie
 
AhHa!

Jim, I thought that there might be. Where is that in-line fuse. Thanks, bob
 
The Lewmar wiring contains the power for the switches. The power originates from the main breaker located behind the heads mirror in the Cutwater. Follow the 12Volt lead that comes off the breaker and goes to the contractor. At this terminal there should also be a smaller gauge wire. This is the power lead that powers both the dash switch and the bow switches. When you locate this wire there will be a 3 amp fuse inline that powers the switches.
 
Hi Brian, thanks but my boat, a 2019 C-28, does not have that smaller size wire coming from the Contactor to the Switches, nor does it have the in-line fuse.

It has three smaller size wires on the side of the Contactor. The UP, the DOWN (both Orange) and a Ground (Yellow) in the middle. I've got good continuity from the Switch ends of the UP and DOWN small wires to where the connect to the Contactor. And as noted, the slightly heavier Red wire that goes to the top terminal of the Switch, shows full 12 volts.

But I am certain that there must be an in-line fuse somewhere, as you indicated, that popped. The Switches have always worked and it's doubtful that both the UP and the DOWN functions, failed at the same time. It's a power to the Switch issue, I think and it's that small fuse that is located somewhere that has blown. Can't see one anywhere in the mirror compartment.

More checking in a bit...Bob

PS: Also to S-LTD, it's easy to see if the Contactor is working. The UP and DOWN wires are connected to the side of the Contactor, both are Positive (+) and are Orange. The center wire is Yellow and is a Negative (-).

Disconnect either the UP or DOWN wire and with a jumper wire, about 2' long and it touching one of the large Positive (+) Busses on the door, just touch the jumper to that small terminal and you will hear the Contactor click, hard. You will also hear the Windlass work too. It's doubtful that either has failed. You have the same issue as me. Brian to the rescue...
 
If I remember in comes off of the positive lead on the contactor. The lead that comes from the circuit breaker. The fuse holder was an inline blade automotive. It is black with red pigtails.

Jim Demerest
2020 R29 Chessie
 
FIGURED IT OUT!!!

Pulled the Switch Panel out of the helm. (Four #1 Square Head size screws).

The Switch still didn't do anything, UP or DOWN.

Kept pushing the small Breaker and still nothing happened.

NOTE: On my boat there is no in-line fuse. I suspect that this Breaker took its place.

BUT, I jumped the two terminals of the Breaker, pushed the UP/DOWN switch and the Windlass worked perfectly.

Ah-HA! A Clue...

Removed the Breaker terminals from the Breaker and jumped the the two wire terminal ends. Pushed the UP/DOWN Switch again, worked perfectly.

But what if the Breaker was doing what it was supposed to be doing and preventing a Short? So I dug out a 3 amp spade fuse (automotive type that is used in the boat), inserted it into the two wire terminals, punched the UP/DOWN Switch and the Windlass did just fine, and didn't blow the fuse.

Therefore, a defective 3 amp Breaker! The boat now has only 75 hours on her. No idea why a Breaker (made by Carling/Taiwan not China) would fail so soon.

But I'll keep the 3 amp fuse in the two terminals until I get a new Breaker.

Thanks again for all the comments/help. Another odd one for these very complicated boats.

Bob/Bradenton

PS: Go over to the Mod's area to see all the "mod's" that I've done to my "new" boat...

PPS: I bought the boat in June with only 27 hours on her. Normally a good thing, almost new. But tons of issues and almost sold her twice. I don't think that the former owner took care of her. So every time I'd board the boat I'd say to her: "Well Babe, what's your issue today?" Apparently she heard that I was very frustrated with her (expensive!) tantrums and mended her ways. I've already been on some nice relaxing local cruises on her and she has been behaving herself. BUT, I did name her "BABE". Officially.

BABE: Very cute, but full of issues, high maintenance and overly complicated. "BABE"
 
I'd like to add one more comment from the trouble-shooting that I did as described above.

If you have a failed small Breaker, like those in the helm and one does not work or its assigned item does not work (Thruster Remote, Dock Lights, Wipers, etc.), just remove the two wires that go to the back of the small Breaker and insert a common automotive fuse (which is what our boats use so carry lots of spares in a variety of amp ratings) into the two wire terminals and you are back in business. The fuse should be about the same amp rating as the Breaker that it is replacing.

If the fuse blows, then you have a short circuit somewhere and the Breaker is properly doing its job. But if it doesn't and the assigned item now works, the Breaker is bad. Easy to identify.

This is a quick fix to get you out of a jamb, like my issue that I had with my Windlass not working. It was fortunate that my anchor was not down or was needed for an emergency. Yes I could pull it up by hand but in a rough sea condition, that would be dangerous or impossible.

It's unusual for these small Breakers to fail but mine did with only 75 hours on the boat so keep this in mind if one of the items does not work. Remove the two wires on the Breaker back, insert a fuse and see if the item now works. Easy and safe trouble-shooting. Bob/Bradenton...
 
Bob,
Turns out my problem is the exact same issue (breaker went bad). What are the odds. My boat is a 2018 and yours is a 2019 so makes one wonder if this was attributed to a bad batch of breakers as it should be rare for these to go out without tripping. In any event I am so glad we were on just an overnight trip without wind. After pulling up my anchor and chain by hand it reminds me how much easier it was when I was younger :?

Thanks again to you and everyone for contributing and helping diagnose and resolve. For once my procrastination to fix something paid off 😎
 
Hi Scott,

A faulty Breaker is one of the last things that one would look for when trouble-shooting a issue such as this. They normally don't fail. You're right, an apparent bad batch from Carling. As noted, a very dangerous situation if you needed your anchor to work, or Nav-Lights to turn-on, etc.

So the lesson here for anyone reading this thread is if one of your helm items is not working, go directly to the helm breakers first, remove the two wires on the back of the Breaker, insert a fuse and see if the item turns back ON.

Bob/Bradenton.
 
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