C28 Head intake strainer

[jlhowland]

I have a 2019 C28 LE. There is no strainer on the raw water intake for the head. Just a check valve. This has always caused problems for me when it comes time to winterize. Last year I had the yard winterize my head but I want to be able to do it myself and I think adding a strainer to the system is the easiest way. Plus, it will help keep gunk out of the head line.

Anyway, I'm looking at the way the boat is plumbed now and looking to get some expert advice. Currently, the Air Conditioner raw water intake comes off of the large brass strainer on the aft starboard side of the engine. It then runs into a smaller plastic strainer on the bulkhead before it goes into the pump. Does anyone know why there are two strainers? My plan is to re plumb so that the head intake goes through the plastic strainer and the AC intake comes straight from the large brass strainer.

is this a viable method? Anyone know something I don't?

 

[knotflying]

I am not very familiar with the Cutwater, but doesn't the head get fed from the same strainer that feeds the engine intake? On all the tugs the large strainer feeds the head, engine raw water and the raw water washdown.

 

[jlhowland]

The engine intake is on its own strainer on the port side. The head is on its own thru hull. It is the forward one on the starboard side. There is no strainer on that thru hull. It is the only thru hull not connected to a strainer.

 

[S. Todd]

On our R29S (2021): The engine (Volvo D-4) has its own through-hull and the Volvo strainer on the engine; the generator has its own through-hull and strainer; and the multiport strainer being feed from a third through-hull feeds the air conditioner, toilet, and the cockpit washdown pump (that has a separate strainer incorporated into the pump assembly).

 

[Rockjumper]

My C28 is set up the same way with two strainers in series feeding the AC and none on the head. I like your solution and am interested in hearing if the AC really needs double filtration.

 

[JonR]

This discussion in interesting. I own a 2014 C28 w/Volvo D4 engine. Being in the NW, our need for air conditioning is minimal. Not having air conditioning may be the difference here. My head feed hose is attached to the same strainer that supports the engine as was indicated by the Ranger Tug owner. Seems things get more difficult when A/C is installed.

Jon R

 

[BB marine]

My C28 is set up the same way with two strainers in series feeding the AC and none on the head. I like your solution and am interested in hearing if the AC really needs double filtration.

I have read this thread and I have come to the conclusion that is is another case of Fluid Motion installations with no consistency. The D4 Volvo engine should be plumbed alone. (1) through hull (1) strainer, 1 1/2" fittings and hoses to provide enough coolant water for the close cool system. The marine air unit should be on its own thru hull and strainer this is in the installation manual of any Marine air unit.
Install a bronze, full flow seacock on the seawater scoop thru-hull inlet.
3. Install a seawater strainer below the level of the pump with access to filter.
4. Mount the pump above the strainer and at least one foot below the waterline.
5. Connect the seacock and strainer with an uphill run of reinforced marine grade hose.

Note the marine air needs to have a scoop type thru hull inlet.

The generator should have its own thru hull fitting scoop type and strainer.

The head and raw water wash down can be used with a multi port strainer and one thru hull fitting. The boats that have the head plumbed to a single thru hull and the air unit and raw water wash down are plumbed incorrectly.

The head that is plumbed with the check valve that is on a single through hull is incorrect. The check valve is installed in the event that the head and another component are used with a single thru hull and strainer.

If It was my Cutwater 28 I would plumb the Marine air to the single thru hull and install a sea strainer to protect the raw water cooling side from being fouled. Confirm that the thru hull is a scoop type, if not replace it with the correct thru hull.

I would install the head to the multi port strainer with the raw water wash down. Confirm that the check valve is between the strainer and the head so the raw water wash down will not pull water from the heads bowl. The thru hull used for the head and the raw water wash down should not be a scoop type thru hull. If it is this may cause the heads bowl to fill when the boat is under way.

The issue with all of this is trying to cut corners and save money on fittings. The only components that should be used in a multi port strainer Head and Wash down. Why is it that the same model boat has different plumbing configurations.

The inboard R25 R27 and C26 had multi port strainers 3 ports. One 1" thru hull with a 1" and two 3/4 " ports feeding an engine that required 1 1/4" thru hull and 1 1/4" plumbing, the head and the wash down were also plumbed to this strainer. Did it work ? Marginally! Try flushing the head when the engine is running at 3000 rpm and not getting enough water to the 1 1/4" raw water engine pump. Try running 3600 rpm and watch the temperature climb to 190F when it should stay at a steady 180F.

My opinion plumb it right and the issues go away.

 

[gallatintug]

I have a 2021 C28 delivered in September. I was told it was the second to last one to come out of the factory. My setup has the engine on its own thru hull and strainer, raw water wash down with separate high speed pickup thru hull and strainer, and the head has a separate thru hull with check valve and no strainer. When I got my orientation, I was told the reason for the head being on a separate thru hull was because the use of the high speed thru hull on the multiport strainer was flooding the head as Brian mentioned. I am curious about the check valve: 1) why is it important to have it (my other boat did not have one) 2) Does it create a winterization problem?

 

[jlhowland]

BB your explanations are, as usual, well thought through and convincing.

Here is some additional info and how I ended up tackling the problem. The 3 gang brass strainer is on a scoop type thru hull. I think the AC needs a scoop type and that the head should not be on a scoop type. Plumbing it the way you describe will require changing the thru hulls. That is not a job I am willing to tackle right now, mostly because changing the thru hulls cannot be done while the boat is in the water.

I ended up adding a matching ventus strainer on the intake to the head. The single, forward starboard intake now feeds the head through a strainer. I kept the AC setup as it was delivered by the factory with both strainers. Maybe this is not perfect, but does give me the ability to run barnacle buster through the AC without running it through the rest of the 3 gang strainer.

When time and $ permit, I will probably replumb it again, just like BB mentioned above. In the mean time, if I come up against any problems with the new configuration, I will update the post.