C28 Mase 2.7 Water Pump Leak and E-81

[oceaneyes]

Hi Everyone,

I hope your spring season is off to a good start. I tried to start the Mase 2.7 generator and it shut off with an E 81 error. As I was troubleshooting the error code, I noticed my water pump was leaking. It appears to have been leaking for quite some time - notice the rust at the base.

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If you have any input on the error code I'd appreciate it. I checked the 3amp and 30 amp fuse - they were fine. The oil level was low so I added some but maybe I added too much. I read the E81 code can mean high or low oil levels. I removed the oil filter (not fun at all) and it was clean and in new condition.

On to the water pump - I can't find anything that confirms the type of pump or engine so I can't find a rebuilt kit or new pump. Can anyone point me in the right direction for a water pump rebuild kit or new pump?

Thank you!

 

[dclagett]

According to google e-81 indicates the motor lubrication system pressure is insufficient. Check the oil level and if ok I would call Mase in Florida 954-990-4130 or 954-533-2701.

 

[Martin610]

I had a leak in mine too. I always make sure I take all the covers off and run my genny for a bit and look for leaks in the spring.

I had trouble finding a rebuild kit at the time so I wound up buying a new pump. Here's a link to the type I bought, I actually bought mine locally. https://www.boatersland.com/jpi10350385 ... vwEALw_wcB
It's a Johnson F-35B.

I'm going to get a rebuild kit for the old one and then I'll have a spare.

It's very tight in the gen compartment so expect skinned knuckles and epithets. For me, the hardest part was getting the belt back on. The MASE manual is pretty good with illustrations of the pump, belt tightness, etc.

 

[Martin610]

Yes, the infamous E-81. Oil level has to be spot on. Another thing to check is the oil filter, really a mesh screen. Very easy to bend it. That will throw a an E-81. It's so tight its hard to replace it without bending. A lot of us just pull it out as far as we can, shoot with solvent to clean it, and put it back in.

 

[oceaneyes]

Hi Martin610,

Great information on the pump, thank you. I’ll replace it and rebuild the old one so I have a good spare. Funny thing about the oil filter - I had my mechanic replace it last year and I thought he could have bent it. I took the time to remove it (wow that’s a terrible project), and it was brand new. I’m actually thinking I had the oil a tad too full. So now I’ll reinstall and fill with the exact amount of oil. Fingers crossed.

Do you have any tips for replacing the pump? Were there panels or hoses you disassembled that made it easier? Any special tools?

Thank you!

 

[Martin610]

I removed all the panels I could. I did have to remove the right hand panel to work with the drive belt. Was actually pretty miserable. I have big hands, a smaller person might suffer less.

Swapping out the pump itself wasn't bad.

One last thing I forgot about until now. There is an electrical connection on the front of the motor. Might be for the fuel sensor. I knocked it loose during the pump change out and the genny would not start. It's not a locking connector, more like a banana plug. Absolutely wrong for this application. Just check that when you finish up to avoid the grief I had.

 

[oceaneyes]

Thank you for your help. I'll report back after my knuckles heal 🙂

 

[HRowland]

I had the same seawater leak from the Mase IS 2.7 raw water pump when I owned a R27. I contacted Mase North America and they sent me a replacement lip seal ($16 including shipping). Pretty easy to replace once you remove the pump. I had it fail again and bought a replacement seal from Fisheries Supply. It is a Johnson part number 0.2233.010, Fisheries supply SKU 81266. Cost is less than $9.
I think it is vulnerable to an extended dry run at genset startup, the pump is on the discharge side of the heat exchanger. Raw water has to be drawn up from the through hull, sea strainer, plumbing, and finally through the heat exchanger before reaching the pump. I could not see any issue on the pump shaft that would cause the lip seal to wear. Luckily it is an inexpensive part, the worst part is removing the pump to replace it.

Howard

 

[oceaneyes]

Quick update: I took the oil screen out and it was fine so I reinstalled and filled with the correct amount of oil. It fired right up and works fine! I must have put too much oil in.

For anyone that has replaced the water pump - how did you access the belt? The side panel up against the bulkhead is really tight to access and has 9 screws that are very hard to remove. Any tips?

Thank you!