C30 Sanitation Hose Replacement

D

dbsea

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 1, 2021
Messages
1,065
Fluid Motion Model
R-23 (Outboard)
Vessel Name
HALCYON
MMSI Number
368365270
I think it might be time to replace my blackwater hoses in my 2016 C30. Starting to get some sulfery smell and they are going on 7 years old. I'm planning to use the Raritan hoses:

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/raritan ... hose/sfh50

Can anyone advise on the easiest way to do this poopy job? It appears that the existing hoses are not only attached with hose clamps but a fair amount of sealant, and I'm not sure about the order of operations for all of this. Has anyone with a C30 or similar already done this? Or should I hire someone??
 
Dave,
We had to replace the hose after 12 years of use on our R-25 Classic. The hose was so filled will rock hard calcium deposits that liquid wouldn’t flow through it anymore. Paid Bellingham Yachts to have it replaced even though access to the hose was a very easy. Mostly a 12-14 foot completely flat run through the starboard cockpit locker to the black water tank. Didn’t smell bad at all since we triple flushed and added chemicals to the holding tank before the work started. Had the electric toilet rebuilt at the same time. Took about 4 hours to do everything. Don’t regret paying to have it done.
Several sailboat owners told me that 10-12 years is about average life of those hoses.
 
Thanks Glider! I may well investigate if it's the hose or if I have a venting issue. I know the raw water flush doesn't help. I don't think the electric macerator Tecma toilets have any sort of joker valve that needs servicing either.
 
Dave,
If your problem is slow drainage due to calcium deposits in the hose you might want to try this first before replacing the hose.
https://youtu.be/bAbwWX8TG-U
 
Last year I replaced all the sanitation lines in my C30 with the Shields Poly X hoses... Lifetime guaranteed not to permeate odor. It wasn't cheap and it wasn't fun, but it was certainly doable if you don't mind getting your hands dirty. I will say that it was mostly preventative (easier to prevent odor than to try and remove it later) as I figured it might as well be done at the same time I was adding a vent filter.

Having a socket head screwdriver and a short handle ratchet for the hose clamps makes life a lot easier. Also, a heat gun and a pair of work gloves makes the removing of the hoses much easier as the sealant gets softer. Found the best way to get the new hoses in was to buy a hose barb joining fitting, put it into the end of the old line and the end of the new line, then wrap with some reinforced tape. Just pull the old line out and it pulls the new line in. Just need two sizes, one for all of the main lines, the other for the vent.

There are some zip ties that need to be cut along the vent line, deck pump out line, and thruster/windlass cables which hold them all up against the top edge of the back wall/hull underneath the sink in the head. I also had a couple which were holding the hoses together before the macerator pump.
 
Full_O_Fish":1q5eu5ya said:
Last year I replaced all the sanitation lines in my C30 with the Shields Poly X hoses... Lifetime guaranteed not to permeate odor. It wasn't cheap and it wasn't fun, but it was certainly doable if you don't mind getting your hands dirty. I will say that it was mostly preventative (easier to prevent odor than to try and remove it later) as I figured it might as well be done at the same time I was adding a vent filter.

Having a socket head screwdriver and a short handle ratchet for the hose clamps makes life a lot easier. Also, a heat gun and a pair of work gloves makes the removing of the hoses much easier as the sealant gets softer. Found the best way to get the new hoses in was to buy a hose barb joining fitting, put it into the end of the old line and the end of the new line, then wrap with some reinforced tape. Just pull the old line out and it pulls the new line in. Just need two sizes, one for all of the main lines, the other for the vent.

There are some zip ties that need to be cut along the vent line, deck pump out line, and thruster/windlass cables which hold them all up against the top edge of the back wall/hull underneath the sink in the head. I also had a couple which were holding the hoses together before the macerator pump.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this, I'm going to save it! I did the "rag test" on my lines and they are fine. I think the issue for me is the raw water toilet and I did confirm that the Tecma electric toilets do have a check valve that does need to be replaced. I replaced that yesterday (gross) and ran some vinegar through the sea strainer, and I'm also installing the commoderizer. Hopefully that will clear everything up.
 
dbsea":yc44p5v3 said:
Full_O_Fish":yc44p5v3 said:
Last year I replaced all the sanitation lines in my C30 with the Shields Poly X hoses... Lifetime guaranteed not to permeate odor. It wasn't cheap and it wasn't fun, but it was certainly doable if you don't mind getting your hands dirty. I will say that it was mostly preventative (easier to prevent odor than to try and remove it later) as I figured it might as well be done at the same time I was adding a vent filter.

Having a socket head screwdriver and a short handle ratchet for the hose clamps makes life a lot easier. Also, a heat gun and a pair of work gloves makes the removing of the hoses much easier as the sealant gets softer. Found the best way to get the new hoses in was to buy a hose barb joining fitting, put it into the end of the old line and the end of the new line, then wrap with some reinforced tape. Just pull the old line out and it pulls the new line in. Just need two sizes, one for all of the main lines, the other for the vent.

There are some zip ties that need to be cut along the vent line, deck pump out line, and thruster/windlass cables which hold them all up against the top edge of the back wall/hull underneath the sink in the head. I also had a couple which were holding the hoses together before the macerator pump.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this, I'm going to save it! I did the "rag test" on my lines and they are fine. I think the issue for me is the raw water toilet and I did confirm that the Tecma electric toilets do have a check valve that does need to be replaced. I replaced that yesterday (gross) and ran some vinegar through the sea strainer, and I'm also installing the commoderizer. Hopefully that will clear everything up.
Click to expand...

Is that commoderizer plug and play with our boats?
 
dexmot, its pretty easy. You have to buy a secondary jabsco strainer and the commoderizer attaches to that. you then put the sea strainer in line after your raw water intake strainer and before the seawater pump for the toilet. You also have to change the diaphram on the parmax pump to a Viton diaphram so the chlorine from the commoderizer doesn't kill your pump diaphram. Not a complicated project but a few steps involved. I'll be doing mine once the Viton diaphram shows up.
 
dbsea":2yc0yz76 said:
dexmot, its pretty easy. You have to buy a secondary jabsco strainer and the commoderizer attaches to that. you then put the sea strainer in line after your raw water intake strainer and before the seawater pump for the toilet. You also have to change the diaphram on the parmax pump to a Viton diaphram so the chlorine from the commoderizer doesn't kill your pump diaphram. Not a complicated project but a few steps involved. I'll be doing mine once the Viton diaphram shows up.
Click to expand...

Take some photos of how you did it.
 
dexmot74":31xkhaar said:
dbsea":31xkhaar said:
dexmot, its pretty easy. You have to buy a secondary jabsco strainer and the commoderizer attaches to that. you then put the sea strainer in line after your raw water intake strainer and before the seawater pump for the toilet. You also have to change the diaphram on the parmax pump to a Viton diaphram so the chlorine from the commoderizer doesn't kill your pump diaphram. Not a complicated project but a few steps involved. I'll be doing mine once the Viton diaphram shows up.
Click to expand...

Take some photos of how you did it.
Click to expand...

Will do for sure!
 
Do you use the Type A or B model and which chlorine valve kit did you get?
 
this is a new item I was not aware of.

so the commoderizer sits between the raw water intake and the head?

so

raw water intake --> additional strainer --> commoderizer --> head intake?
 
interesting!

I have a raritan seaera and not a jabsco toilet. i don't see a chlorine impeller kit for that unit.
 
I have a Tecma Electric macerator toilet but the "seatek" branded pump it comes with is nothing more than an OEM jabsco parmax 4 diaphram pump. You'll have to check and see what your pump looks like...
 
Of course my pump is in the far back of the Starboard Lazarette :lol:
 
dexmot74":1zqr1umb said:
Of course my pump is in the far back of the Starboard Lazarette :lol:
Click to expand...

Naturally. Nothing's easy, although as far as projects go, adding the commoderizer was a very easy / fast project for me. Took less than an hour, including swapping out the diaphragm on the pump.
 
Hi Dave,
The instructions are to use no other chemicals in the holding tank--has that caused any issues for you?
 
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