Changing Coolant on Volvo D3-200

[allanrs74@gmail.com]

It has come time to change the coolant on my 2016 R-27C with a Volvo D3-200. I've done all of the routine maintenance on the boat and engine since I purchased it in 2018 but have not changed the coolant yet.

I need some help from the collective brain here. I've checked YouTube without much joy. I plan on replacing the coolant with Volvo premixed coolant as the freeze point has to be low as the boat is winterized and stored in Soldotna, AK.

The questions I need help with:
- How many drain points are there? Is there a single low point drain? Are there multiple drain points on multiple pieces of equipment? From the Volvo service manual it looks like one, but there is a note about having a heating system tied into the cooling system (which there is) has to be drained.

- Is the best way to collect the used coolant to let it drain into the bilge and then out the main boat drain? Seems a bit messy with the poisonous coolant? Hook up and use an oil change pump? What type of fitting is required if you have to hook up to the drain point?

- Should you flush the system with tap water after draining to get any sediment removed?

- Are there any tricks in filling the system up again? Bleeding entrapped air?

I certainly appreciate some help from those that have successfully completed this preventative maintenance in the past. Are there any other tricks or hurdles that I should be aware of?

Stay safe.
Bob Allan
2016 R-27C
Annie M

 

[Red Raven]

Hi Bob,

I have changed the coolant in my D3-200 without issue. This is what I did, for what it is worth.

- I drained the coolant from the single drain at the bottom of the heat exchanger. I was not aware of any concern about the helm heater and thus did not look for another drain. It seems the helm heater is well above the elevation of the drain so fluid would not collect there but I’m not sure.

- I considered trying to collect the coolant but there just wasn’t room. There is a nipple on the drain that you can slip some tubing on. I did this and ran the tubing to a point very near the keel drain. This minimized the amount of coolant in the bilge. Obviously this method requires the boat to be out of the water. An oil change pump may work. I did not try.

- I called my Volvo service center about the need to flush the system. They said to inspect the old fluid for debris or any sign of buildup. If none, they said flushing was not necessary. I did not flush it as it all looked clean.

- After filling, to get the air out I ran the engine and then rechecked the level and added fluid as needed. I repeated this several times until the fluid level no longer dropped.

I hope this helps.

Curt

 

[S. Todd]

When we had a D-3, I used a oil change pump to try and capture the antifreeze from the fitting on the bottom of the heat exchanger. I never found the perfect tubing to fit but got about 90% or more and used paper towels to soak up the rest from the bilge. The beauty of recapture was I could measure the amount that came out. An earlier post many years back indicated it was very difficult to ever get all of the antifreeze out, which was consistent with my attempts. The solution many of us came up with was to change the fluid every year and that way the remaining older fluid would be continually diluted with newer fluid every year. If there is a better way to get it all out, maybe someone else will chime in for you.

 

[Mr Ben]

Watching this closely as this is on my list of things to do this spring. I was going to do it in the water after reading this maybe not. I just thought it would drain better warmed up. Maybe Mr BB will see this and respond. He has done this many times in a Cutwater but same engine. How much fluid did you purchase and source?

 

[S. Todd]

Mr. Ben,
I don't think there is any reason to warm up the coolant to drain it. You don't want to risk scalding yourself and I cannot say I ever heard anyone recommend changing antifreeze that is warmed up. I get my Volvo Coolant from Slater Yacht Service, LLC, which is very close to you. They are located at 106 S. Park, Spring Lake, MI 49456. They have been kind enough to actually ship it to me at my Indianapolis address. I also get oil analysis kits from them to have my engine and transmission (reverse gear) oil checked at every change. Their number is 616-844-7041. If my recollection is correct, I would get just under 2 gallons out every time I changed the coolant on my D-3. It won't go bad on the shelf so you could get 3 before you start and you should have plenty (unless you find a way to drain the entire system including the cabin heater).

 

[BB marine]

No need to warm anti-freeze to drain it. I recommend using the Volvo Yellow Pre-mix which is good for -18F. 3 gallons is the rated capacity. it will be hard to get all the old antifreeze out. I recommend a flush with distilled water and a flush of the heater and hot water heater. I close the ball valves then drain the engine coolant using the petcock on the bottom of the exchanger, remove the cap off the recovery bottle. I use Curts method works well. Although I have a long clear PVC hose that I feed through the garboard drain to a bucket on the ground. Once the system is drained I remove the hoses off the ball valves block side. Then use a gallon of distilled water and a drill pump. Open the ball valves and pump the water in one hoes and catch the anti freeze in a bucket until all anti freeze is removed and water is present. Then I take a gallon of antifreeze and pump it until clean new antifreeze comes out of the hose. Close both valves and reattach the engine hoses to the valves.

I pour and fill the block with distilled water. Then drain it again. If the boat is in the water it is best to run the engine up to temperature to help circulate the water to help remove any old antifreeze sludge and deposits. I just want to make sure I have all the old antifreeze out and clean in. After the water is drained close the petcock and fill the cooling system with new antifreeze. When filled open the heater/hot water ball valves. I leave the fill cap off to help burp any air in the system for a day or two ( I normally do this during the off season) top the tank off and cap on. I agree with S. Todd change the anti freeze every year. (D3)

 

[allanrs74@gmail.com]

Thanks everyone for your responses. Sounds like a pretty straight forward job.

Stay safe.
Bob Allan

 

[Mr Ben]

I am familiar with Slater. Have to stop by there next time i'm on that side of the bridge. I'll probably do what I can on the trailer in the barn. Still only 18 today I need it to warm up a little more before I start tackling boating stuff. I am ready for summer! The older I get the longer these winters seems to last.

 

[kjoverbeck]

Curt, do you recall the size of the tubing that goes on the nipple? I am getting ready to change mine soon. My boat is in the water and am going to try attaching a 12v powered oil change pump. My other concern is just getting by all the hoses to get a wrench on the nut to open it up. I'm not as flexible as I once was! I guess everyone needs a challenge.
Thanks, Kent

 

[Red Raven]

Curt, do you recall the size of the tubing that goes on the nipple? I am getting ready to change mine soon. My boat is in the water and am going to try attaching a 12v powered oil change pump. My other concern is just getting by all the hoses to get a wrench on the nut to open it up. I'm not as flexible as I once was! I guess everyone needs a challenge.
Thanks, Kent

It’s probably metric (12mm?) but 1/2” ID tubing worked fine. It wasn’t too difficult to loosen. A few hoses in the way but not too bad.

Curt

 

[kjoverbeck]

Thanks Curt.

 

[dougxn]

Perhaps this is a dead thread, but I just purchased a new to me 2015 r27, D3-200i-g and I am going to do a complete maintenance - oil change, filters, coolant, etc. It seems like Volvo is very specific on the coolant and not changing type - yellow vs green. I see on line there is concentrate vs ready mix. :roll:

Anyway, is all Volvo yellow ready mix the same or is there some other secret Volvo formula? I found this warning on the Volvo site - "Do not mix Volvo Penta coolant VCS (yellow) and Volvo Penta coolant (green). They are formulated for the specific requirements of different engine generations and contain unique additives that are not compatible."

So now I am nervous about getting it right. 🙁

thanks - dn

 

[Ralf H]

Hi there Doug,

Yes, just stick with the VCS yellow. That's what all the current Penta engines are using.

Cheers,

Ralf