Changing Oil, filter and fuel filter

[markm]

I hate to admit that I have always had a local boat shop do this work for me. They went out of business, I thought I would take a fly at changing the oil, oil filter and fuel filter.

I have a oil pump that you put down the dip stick.

What procedures are recommended after that?

I know where the fuel filter is, how does this work?

Last but not least, what kind of oil does everyone recommend for the Yanmar 20 hp.

Thanks for all the great advice on this site.

Mark

 

[captain's cat]

Mark, that system will leave a little oil and gunk in the bottom of the sump. A better way is to get a shallow pan under the engine and remove the drain plug. Your system will work but it's not the best. The oil filter should just spin off (may have to use a filter wrench if it's really tight - that's like a strap wrench). Take oil out of the engine first, then remove the filter. Get some sort of pan under the filter, some oil will come out but probably not much.

It's best to have the engine warm when you do this so the oil flows freely. Your engine/boat manual should specify the oil type or you can find it on the Yanmar site.

Charlie

 

[Texas Steve]

Mark:

Here are cross references for oil and fuel filter that I've found useful, although these are for the 30 HP version...

Oil: Wix 51365
Fuel: Wix 33262

The Fram version is less pricey, but never in stock here locally.

The previous post is good advice on changing the oil. Pump as much as you can out the top and then drain the rest into a pan in the bilge. It's close, but gets easier with practice. The fuel filter just loosens via the slotted ring that serves as a retainer to hold the unit in place... wear gloves or your hands will stink for days after.

Texas Steve

 

[K7MXE]

I recommend you put a piece of good duct tape over the hole that lets the engine
pain drain into the bilge so you dont have oil in the bottom of the boat. Yep the
filter is a messy job but not hard at all. All the info is in the service manual but
I used delo by Chevron 15-40 in the motor and delo 30 in the gearbox. Its easier
to figure the amount in mili liters than parts of a pint. Does not take much in
the gearbox. Looking forward to finding out how that pan under the motor does.

Bob Heselberg Eatonville wa

 

[Kamalani]

Mark - as we just passed the first 50 hr. point, we decided to call in a Yanmar mechanic to perform the recommended service. I observed and asked ??s and will do those routine chores myself in the future. I noted that he used Delo 15w-40 oil in the engine. Gear was full when checked. Coolant, however was very low, and he added a special mixture 50% water & 50% coolant formulated for aluminum blocks. The fuel & oil filters are listed in the specs that Andrew posted as a download. (See home Pg.) After changing fuel filter element the fuel system will need to be bled of air. I am glad I had a pro do this the first time.
Alex, "Kamalani"

 

[markm]

Thanks for all the great advise. How does one bleed the air out of the fuel line? :?

 

[rt11002003]

The engine manual explains how to bleed the air from the fuel system after changing the filter.

I changed my oil and filter a couple of days ago after a two hour cruise; the oil was hot and pumped easily. Used a dipstick shaft pump out, looked things over and it appears an drain oil plug attaches the dipstick shaft to the engine (30 hp model). I probably need to take a mirror and see if there is another plug down there. Used delo 400, 15W40 oil to refill.

I put an oil absorbing pad under the filter and still had oil escape into the engine pan. The duct tape idea is a good one, thanks. I'll use the duct tape next time, maybe it will keep me from being anxious about oil in the bilge.

I'm slowly loosing max rpm under load and suspect I need to change the fuel filter.

 

[captd]

Years ago a diesel mechanic told me of tests he had made on oil. He said the reason most truckers across the country use Rotella 15w 40. He said it is available every where including Wall Mart and all truck stops and it is. He claimed it increases the oil presure by 10 lbs on some engines. I have now used it for many years in boats and pickups. I never mix oils. No engine problems. When pickup and boat use the same oil it is convenient.

On the old 8v71 detroits I used their recommended specs and had to use a hard to find Texico oil. Had to do with ash content and sulpher if I remember correctly. Glad to be done with that problem.
captd

 

[markm]

As always the advise on this site is as good the Ranger itself.

Thanks

Mark 😀

 

[Portugeezer]

What do people use for gear oil? The stores I have tried so far do not carry anything with the classifications noted on the Yanmar manual.

John

 

[RProffer]

For gear oil, I use Rotella T1 Standard Grade SAE 30. For engine oil, Rotella T Triple Protection SAE 15W-40. Both meet Yanmar specs for the 3YM30. Both are carried at Walmart and are much cheaper at Walmart that other places. Many threads here and at other websites have preferred Rotella over other brands for all diesel engines.

 

[Wolf Pack]

Wolf Pack also uses the Rotella (Shell) oils for engine and gearbox. This brand is readily available every where I looked (Walmart, Auto Zone, etc) in my area (Des Moines/Federal Way, WA). I have yet to find the Delo stuff in the weights needed for our Yanmar 260hp engine (lots of Delo 100 but no 400).