Checking out the fuel sending unit on a 2008 R 25

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bryant

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Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Non-Fluid Motion Model
looking to buy a Ranger Tug R25
Just bought 2008 Ranger Tug R 25. The fuel gauge is not working. The gauge has been checked out and it is fine so I am assuming it is the fuel sending unit. I know where the fuel tank is located and I know where the sending unit is located on the fuel tank (have a diagram). My problem is I cannot see any way to get to the sending unit short of cutting a hole in the floor of the cabin and I sure want to avoid that. Any advice you may give me would be greatly appreciated.
Bryant
 
Here's a picture of the sender location, courtesy of Kenny Mars at the factory. It's an old picture, taken several years ago - sorry for the poor focus. It's 34" from the bottom of the entry step and 10.5" from the edge of the teak and holly.

 
bryant":1t9q1h7f said:
... Any advice you may give me would be greatly appreciated.
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Leave your cabin sole intact and use a log book and a pencil. If the sender is failing in a manner that is causing low fuel alarms(typical failure mode) then you may need to re-program the engine display to shut them up.
 
Thanks for the great advice. I think I will be going the paper and pencil route
 
Pencil and paper fuel tracking is easy if you full to the top (careful about burping) to restart your calculations every 10 engine hours or so. I always tend to underestimate our total consumption. I don’t go below 1/4 of a tank unless taking boat out for extended trailering.
BTW, Our Journey does have that cut out in the cabin sole near the fuel sending unit access. I’m 7,000 miles away from our boat right now but will take measurements of the cutout when I get home this weekend.
 
My cabin floor access port in our 2009 R25 looks quite different than the photo Bruce posted. It’s in the same general area but closer to the rear step by quite a bit. And I’m not fairly sure this is not the fuel sending unit that I’m looking at under the access port. It’s about 9” from the rear step and about 9” from the head door at the bar where the floor fiberglass is smooth.

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Can anyone out there confirm for me what I’m looking at under that access port? Is it the fuel pick up and return lines?
 
Well, if it were me I think if I really wanted to have an inspection for that area I may bite the bullet, remove the holly and teak sole, cut a hole, replace the sole with a new sole since the old one was ruined pulling it out and attach the new sole with Velcro strips for easy in and out removal and replacement. Is this considered a run on sentence? :lol:
 
All great advice. Right now we are in FL on vacation but as soon as get home I will check out the locations described. The previous owner used the paper and pencil method of tracking fuel consumption. I was looking to correct the problem if possible.
 
The repair is actually very simple. If access plates are not in place a simple cut with a hole saw and installation of a Beckson plate resolves that issue. I would cut a pilot hole first to measure clearance between deck and tank and then set the hole saw pilot bit accordingly. Use a hole saw sized for the Beckson plate. Once the sending unit is accessible to remove and a new unit is purchased. Calibrate the sending unit to the engine panel before installing it in the tank. The sending unit should be very accurate no matter what the attitude of the boat is because of the center tank sending unit installation location. The C26 and newer Ranger tanks the sending unit is far aft in the tank making it inaccurate unless the boat is running level. With my sending unit calibrated it is within 0 to 5% less than actual. Within 0 to 3 gallons of the Garmin when the boat is cruising 1200 rpm or less. The sending unit always showing less than Garmin. The pencil paper method has not worked well for me because I usually don't take the time to figure it out unless I'm cruising in similar conditions ,same rpm, and average fuel burn for a designated time and distance. If I have gauge I want it to be as accurate as possible but do not solely rely on it.
 
knotflying":191myg4b said:
Well, if it were me I think if I really wanted to have an inspection for that area I may bite the bullet, remove the holly and teak sole, cut a hole, replace the sole with a new sole since the old one was ruined pulling it out and attach the new sole with Velcro strips for easy in and out removal and replacement. Is this considered a run on sentence? :lol:
Click to expand...
That's not a bad idea. But replacing the sole probably wouldn't even be necessary. I think the sole could be gotten up without damaging it. After being wet a couple of times the sole in our forepeak came loose of its own accord.
 
Thanks for all the great advice. We finally got back from FL just in time for all the quarantine in place stuff. So being of the age that should take extra precautions I haven't made it out the boat to check it out.
Will l do as soon as I am able to leave the house again.
Thanks again
Bryant
 
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