knotflying
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2010
- Messages
- 6,014
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-28
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLT2731J011
- Non-Fluid Motion Model
- 25' Parker & 246 Robalo Cayman
- Vessel Name
- http://illusionsmikeandjess.blogspot.com
Hi all,
Roam and Illusions have been buddy boating and we were at a point where periodic maintenance was upon us and we figured why not do it while we are laying over for a week.
One of the PM items was to clean the heat exchanger. Roam had never done his and the boat was 7 years old in Salt water and fresh water environment. Illusions is coming on 3 years in an all salt water environment. Roam had also noticed that his engine temp was climbing somewhat, which is an indicator of some blockage. Prior to doing Roam's flush we were able to remove the end cap on his transmission cooler, which is the first entry of sea water. Low and behold we found an accumulation of sea grass and cleared that out. The cooling veins did have some build up. We did a test ride to see if there was improvement prior to the flush and there was, but we thought it could be better so we then proceeded with the heat exchanger cleaning on both engines. The results were improved and the cleaning effects obvious when looking at some of the components afterwards. Below is a detailed list of each task required to complete the procedure. It took about 8 hours start to finish and cleanup for Illusions. This was related to the difficulty associated with the Impeller removal and that is twice!!! I also replaced the serpentine belt as well. Roam was about a 4 hour process and again that is because of the ease of impeller access.
So here is the procedure. Enjoy!
Mike Rizzo
Ranger Tug Heat Exchanger Cleaning Procedure For Yanmar 110 or 4BY2
Materials List
Small wooden plugs
3 Feet 3/4” Hose (or Other Size as required for the Input side of the
Raw Water Washdown Pump)
3 feet 3/4” hose (or other size and reducers as required to connect output side of the raw water washdown pump to the input side of the raw water cooling system)
3 feet of hose to connect to the exit side of the raw water system by
the mixing elbow
Hose Clamps
Two 3 gallon Buckets
1 – 1.5 gallons Rydlyme
Procedure:
Close Raw Water Seacock
Remove Impeller
Replace Impeller Cover without the Impeller
Remove the engine zincs and replace the caps
Disconnect and plug the water input to the stuffing box. On the 4BY2 disconnect hose from mixing elbow and plug. On the 110 disconnect the hose at the stuffing box and plug both the hose and the nipple on the stuffing box.
Remove Raw Water Washdown outlet and Inlet Hoses
Connect and Clamp 3 foot hose to input side of Raw Water Washdown Pump and connect hose from Outlet Side of Raw Water Washdown to Input side of Cooling System
For a Yanmar 110 HP use a reducer for the 3 foot ¾” output hose and a short length of 1” hose to connect the output from the raw water washdown pump to the input of the transmission oil cooler
For 4BY2 connect the output side of the raw water washdown to the sea strainer. This can be accomplished by just switching the hose from the sea strainer feeding the raw water pump to the output side at the raw water pump.
Remove the heat exchanger outlet water hose from the exhaust mixing elbow water input.
Connect a 3 foot hose from the heat exchanger outlet to a bucket
For the Yanmar 110 use a 3 foot 1” hose.
For the Yanmar 4BY2 use a 1.25” to ¾' reducer and a ¾ threaded to a 3/4” barbed fitting connected to a 3' 3/4” hose
Fill the Bucket with two gallons of fresh water
Use the pump to flush the system twice, replacing the water between flushes.
Fill the bucket with one to 1.5 gallons of Rydlyme (biodegradable)
Circulate the Rydlyme for two hours intermittently using the pump Dispose of the Rydlyme
Flush the system with fresh water and two buckets twice or until water exiting is clear.
Now would be a fine time to inspect and clean your mixing elbow.
Reconnect all the hoses as originally installed.
Replace the impeller.
Replace the engine zincs
Open the seacock.
Start the engine and check for leaks.
Roam and Illusions have been buddy boating and we were at a point where periodic maintenance was upon us and we figured why not do it while we are laying over for a week.
One of the PM items was to clean the heat exchanger. Roam had never done his and the boat was 7 years old in Salt water and fresh water environment. Illusions is coming on 3 years in an all salt water environment. Roam had also noticed that his engine temp was climbing somewhat, which is an indicator of some blockage. Prior to doing Roam's flush we were able to remove the end cap on his transmission cooler, which is the first entry of sea water. Low and behold we found an accumulation of sea grass and cleared that out. The cooling veins did have some build up. We did a test ride to see if there was improvement prior to the flush and there was, but we thought it could be better so we then proceeded with the heat exchanger cleaning on both engines. The results were improved and the cleaning effects obvious when looking at some of the components afterwards. Below is a detailed list of each task required to complete the procedure. It took about 8 hours start to finish and cleanup for Illusions. This was related to the difficulty associated with the Impeller removal and that is twice!!! I also replaced the serpentine belt as well. Roam was about a 4 hour process and again that is because of the ease of impeller access.
So here is the procedure. Enjoy!
Mike Rizzo
Ranger Tug Heat Exchanger Cleaning Procedure For Yanmar 110 or 4BY2
Materials List
Small wooden plugs
3 Feet 3/4” Hose (or Other Size as required for the Input side of the
Raw Water Washdown Pump)
3 feet 3/4” hose (or other size and reducers as required to connect output side of the raw water washdown pump to the input side of the raw water cooling system)
3 feet of hose to connect to the exit side of the raw water system by
the mixing elbow
Hose Clamps
Two 3 gallon Buckets
1 – 1.5 gallons Rydlyme
Procedure:
Close Raw Water Seacock
Remove Impeller
Replace Impeller Cover without the Impeller
Remove the engine zincs and replace the caps
Disconnect and plug the water input to the stuffing box. On the 4BY2 disconnect hose from mixing elbow and plug. On the 110 disconnect the hose at the stuffing box and plug both the hose and the nipple on the stuffing box.
Remove Raw Water Washdown outlet and Inlet Hoses
Connect and Clamp 3 foot hose to input side of Raw Water Washdown Pump and connect hose from Outlet Side of Raw Water Washdown to Input side of Cooling System
For a Yanmar 110 HP use a reducer for the 3 foot ¾” output hose and a short length of 1” hose to connect the output from the raw water washdown pump to the input of the transmission oil cooler
For 4BY2 connect the output side of the raw water washdown to the sea strainer. This can be accomplished by just switching the hose from the sea strainer feeding the raw water pump to the output side at the raw water pump.
Remove the heat exchanger outlet water hose from the exhaust mixing elbow water input.
Connect a 3 foot hose from the heat exchanger outlet to a bucket
For the Yanmar 110 use a 3 foot 1” hose.
For the Yanmar 4BY2 use a 1.25” to ¾' reducer and a ¾ threaded to a 3/4” barbed fitting connected to a 3' 3/4” hose
Fill the Bucket with two gallons of fresh water
Use the pump to flush the system twice, replacing the water between flushes.
Fill the bucket with one to 1.5 gallons of Rydlyme (biodegradable)
Circulate the Rydlyme for two hours intermittently using the pump Dispose of the Rydlyme
Flush the system with fresh water and two buckets twice or until water exiting is clear.
Now would be a fine time to inspect and clean your mixing elbow.
Reconnect all the hoses as originally installed.
Replace the impeller.
Replace the engine zincs
Open the seacock.
Start the engine and check for leaks.