CaspersCruiser
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 11, 2016
- Messages
- 873
- Fluid Motion Model
- R-27 Classic
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLT2709G112
- Vessel Name
- Cookie
- MMSI Number
- 368203460
The Fireboy-Xintex CMD-4M carbon monoxide detector on my 2012 Ranger Tug R27 recently signaled that it had reached the end of its 5-year life by constant illumination of the red LED and beeping every 30 seconds. That model is no longer produced and has been superseded by model CMD5-MD.
The CMD5-MD has a larger footprint, but the wall mount to which it attaches can use the existing screw holes. That’s good. However, the convenient two-pin connector on the power and ground wires used by the older CMD-4M model is not used on the new model. That’s a mild irritant. The two-pin connector will have to be cut off the power and ground wires and wiring for new model will have to be joined to the power and ground wires either by blade or bullet connectors or butt splices. I used blade connectors. Not a big deal, but it would have been nice if they had retained the two-pin connector to ease installation. Things like CO detectors should be very easy to install to promote their maintenance and use.
Before cutting the wires to the two-pin connector, remove the 3A fuse to the CO detector to avoid blowing it. Don’t ask me how I know this. That fuse on my boat is located on the small PDP (power distribution panel) under the battery switches in the port cockpit lazarette. The wire leading to it is mislabeled “O.C. Sensor”. The the illustration of the PDP in the owner’s manual is similarly mislabeled.
The CMD5-MD has a larger footprint, but the wall mount to which it attaches can use the existing screw holes. That’s good. However, the convenient two-pin connector on the power and ground wires used by the older CMD-4M model is not used on the new model. That’s a mild irritant. The two-pin connector will have to be cut off the power and ground wires and wiring for new model will have to be joined to the power and ground wires either by blade or bullet connectors or butt splices. I used blade connectors. Not a big deal, but it would have been nice if they had retained the two-pin connector to ease installation. Things like CO detectors should be very easy to install to promote their maintenance and use.
Before cutting the wires to the two-pin connector, remove the 3A fuse to the CO detector to avoid blowing it. Don’t ask me how I know this. That fuse on my boat is located on the small PDP (power distribution panel) under the battery switches in the port cockpit lazarette. The wire leading to it is mislabeled “O.C. Sensor”. The the illustration of the PDP in the owner’s manual is similarly mislabeled.