Converting a stock RT or Cutwater to a long duration cruiser

Thanks everyone for your comments and suggestions. Lots of great ideas to consider.
When I first responded to the question I received on Facebook my intent was to explain some modifications & upgraded to the boat’s hardware and equipment that will make a longer trip easier and more enjoyable. Then there’s a set of “being prepared for almost anything” spares and tools you should carry.
Finally, lots of gadgets you can acquire that make the trip better as well.
On our current cruise we are trying out a great little solar power bank with a separate usb rotating table fan with a led light.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVTHPXLB?re ... b_ap_share
https://a.co/d/aJtb5pK
We are also testing a solar + usb powered table or hanging mosquito zapper & light combo.
https://a.co/d/0Bsg9It
Installing two ultra lightweight stainless fender holders for the swim platform tomorrow.
Plus a new oven thermometer and small pizza stones to stabilize the oven’s temperature a bit better.
Considering a solar + usb powered collapsible portable light puck for our next cruise.
https://a.co/d/g4WZAYe
If powered by solar only, these devices don’t draw power from the house bank! Of course storage of all these comfort enhancing items is always an issue.
Thanks again everyone!

Edited to add links.
 
It's interesting reading different perspectives on the topic of long distance cruising/extended time aboard. I won't speak to traveling from town to town/marina to marina. Don't even understand what there is to talk about if you have the ability to replenish every day or two. The only thing to manage in that case is crew attitude.

For remote/unsupported cruising it boils down to managing fuel, water, waste, and power(aka batteries). I'll skip all of the issues about spare parts etc because most of that is basic seamanship that shouldn't be much different other than perhaps a few extra spare parts.

Power management:
- For boats with generators power management really boils down to fuel management. You can skip this section.
- Learn to live without inverter/110V appliances. They are big power consumers.
- Learn to be disciplined about turning stuff off when not in use
- Replace all of your 12V bulbs with LEDs
- Increase the capacity of the house battery bank
- Use solar if it makes sense where you boat.

Fuel management:
- Slow down. Most people think if their not running "on step" then they are saving fuel. Maybe. Hull speed for an efficient displacement hull is 1.34 x square root of LWL(not LOA). The multiplier is lower(more like 1.25x) for semi displacement and planing hulls. The wake you're leaving is the best indication of how efficiently you're running. Wave generated by the boat are wasted energy. The bigger the wake the more energy wasted. Hull speed for my R25 Classic is less than 6kt. That's speed through the water, NOT speed over ground indicated by the GPS.
- Learn the difference in speed over ground(indicated by GPS) vs speed through the water.
- Current(reasonably deep water) and wind have no effect on hull speed. Operate accordingly.
- On our R25 Classic we average 4-5 NMPG depending on tides, weather, and how much of a hurry we get in.

Water management:
- Use raw water for anything that doesn't require potable water.
- Use disposable cups, plates, etc. and/or get really good at washing up. Wash with raw water, rinse with domestic, etc.
- Get used to "dry bathing"
- Use hand sanitizer and/or sea water w/clorox for washing hands.
- With two adults on board and taking a shower every 3rd day we average 4-5g/day. That's w/out using disposable cups/plates nor using sea water for washing dishes. So we comfortably make 8 nights on the hook(two showers) with the 30g on board water tank plus two 7.5g plastic jugs. With minimal effort we could easily make 10 nights.

Waste mangement:
- Get a composting head. With two adults using an Airhead we're good for about 40 days w/out dumping. And that's w/out disposing of TP separately.
 
I have been scratching my head over fuel use. In the last year we have put on over 200 engine hrs, and I calculate my average fuel at about 2 MPG. My RT 27 at 12 knots uses 7 + gallons of Diesel (180 HP Yanmar) per hour, and at 5 - 6 knots uses about 2 gallons per hour. On the River I have current and do not have a knot log (that would really mess me up). The confusion for me is that the Garmin panel is telling me that the engine is using fuel at an average rate of about 2 MPG, so I accept that average usage and adjusted my mind to the fact that we used the same amount of fuel for the trip whether we go fast or slow, and all that changes is the time it took. Average fill is at about 35 engine hours of 70 / 75 gallons.
Much cheaper than a new set of Racing Sails.
 
We've traveled 1,657 miles over the past 32 days and put on 124 engine hours.
3 Adults, 3 dogs on an RT27-OB. Consider us live-aboards as this point.

My list for a long distance cruiser is as follows:

Tools to work on your boat.
* Webasto failure - had to replace the Airtop 2000 STC.
* Holding tank vent got clogged (toilet wouldn't flush easily as air couldn't leave the tank).
* Sink snake (galley sink clogged, and wouldn't drain).
* Solar charger fried from bad weather and a clogged scupper. Had to be replaced.

Electrical
400 watts of solar.
At least enough house battery to last you 2 days with no sun (for the really rainy days). Engine charging will make up the rest as it's unlikely to spend more than 2 days at anchor waiting on weather.
A handful of portable high capacity batteries (like, 24,000mah size) for charging tablets, laptops, phones).

Communications
Garmin InReach with unlimited texting and a friend back home who can provide assistance of ANY kind.
Starlink powered off 12 volt (to conserve electrical).
LTE/5g WIFI high-gain antenna with a high performance network router. (for when under way).
I have had a lot of cell coverage where our phones have been in "No service" mode.
an AIS transponder (and RADAR).

Engine
Plenty of oil (to do at least 1 oil change), additional oil in case your motor burns some, spare oil filter, and fuel filters. An oil suction pump.
A lot of Yamalube Ring Free, gasoline fuel additive.

Transportation
A dinghy to get to/from shore.
A portable handheld VHF radio to use when in the dinghy to talk back to the boat.

Anchoring
A decent anchor (like the Rocna).
An anchor bridle.
A great anchor drag alarm.

Accessories
Updated charts for your chartplotter for the area you are cruising in.
An espresso machine for latte's in the morning.
A SquareKeg (SquareOne), for beer on tap when you find yourself in the middle of nowhere and you want draft beer.

Know your boat, mechanically, electrical, fuel consumption, etc... Be good at reading weather forecasts. Get a barometer for your boat. Keep a schedule off the boat. Be ready to move when the weather opens up, and be ready to stay put when the bad weather comes in.

Always know where the 3nm from land or further zones are.

We have about another 3 weeks and 1,100 miles left in our journey.
 
William Sanborn":3gxyngk0 said:
... I accept that average usage and adjusted my mind to the fact that we used the same amount of fuel for the trip whether we go fast or slow, and all that changes is the time it took...

I knew things were a little different in Portland but didn't realize that extended to math and physics. Go figure.

For the rest of us the math works something like this:
- For a round trip on a river current averages out to zero(ignoring tidal/flood related fluctuations) so it doesn't affect mpg
- Assume hull speed of 6kts. Let's assume that's say 1600rpm. Yanmar engine curves show that to be about one gph. 6nmph/1gph= 6nmpg
- 12kts @ 7gph works out to 12nmph/7gph= 1.7nmpg

So call it 3x mpg at hull speed vs running.
 
Gypsy":2ezqefb5 said:
As for the economy of the C28, it is hard to beat. Under normal conditions, on plane, I can usually run 22 mph using 10 gph, which equates to 2.2 miles per gallon. On this trip, fully loaded, including the kitchen sink, I am running just under 2 mpg. Oh, let's not forget that I also carry an inflatable that sits vertically across the transom, catching the wind. Of course, at very low speed, which much of the Loop requires, the mpg goes way up. I have talked to several Ranger Tug and Cutwater outboard owners that claim the best they get is about 1.6 mpg. The price of fuel varies a lot. Yesterday, I got diesel for $3.59 a gallon. Today, 30 miles away, the price was $5.19. As for the price of gas, it is always significantly higher than diesel.

did you reprop your boat? I'm impressed with your fuel economy.
After fresh paint on the bottom I can get up to 1.9nmpg but typically its 1.7 after it gets a bit dirty. right now Im down to 1.5 - 1.6 as the paint is thin and weed is not sloughing off at speed.
 
YAH... I looked out the window during math class, but as a Sail Boater turned Power Boater we worry about #1 electrical consumption (Called Volts and Amps) , and then #2 Fuel expense. I have conditioned myself to not worry about those things and to think about how I can stay now out until after noon and still make it back to the Club for Happy Hour.
 
Gypsy":17qnkmdk said:
Interestingly enough, I was just docked next to Brian's Port A Gee for two days this past week. And, seeing his boat, I would agree that it is a very good Looper boat. However, don't underestimate the C28.

How dirty was the boat? I assume still floating level? We have been gone. We flew to Oregon for a few weeks to help my daughter with the chores, house, farm and animals. She gave birth to a baby boy today. 7 grand babies now! We hope to get back to Winter Harbor New York and continue cruising north and west and finishing the great Loop in Wisconsin this fall. We hope to see you in Georgian Bay and North Channel end of July and August.
 
Brian,
Boat looked good. So did Kayak. For some reason, Port A Gee doesn't show up on Nebo.
 
We are currently doing the loop in a cutwater 28. We chose the 28 because we wanted to see the areas we are going and new we were going to stay primarily in marinas. I can see creeks, bays, and anchorages close to home without travelling 6k miles. The 28 offers cheaper marina stays and the ability to move fast if needed. We are on the Trent Severn as I write this . we do have two electric bikes a takacat and a 65lb lab aboard. things are tight but truthfully this makes us get out and do thing around where we are staying. I will say that we are bikers and have travelled 250,000 miles on a Harley so we are use to packing light. Our motto is there are walmarts everywhere.
 
do an amp hour budget (see Ocean Planet Energy for an example -- https://oceanplanetenergy.com/support-how-to/
), to identify your uses vs your available amps from batteries, engine alternator, and charger (from either shore or generator AC)
If you have batteries other than standard flooded batteries, such as AGM, make sure your solar controller and charger produce volts and stage profiles recommended by battery mfg, probably 14.7 volts and 3 stage, my boat alternator and controller are set for 14.4 volts and are not adjustable, so I am replacing solar controller and charger to be able to fully charge my AGMs (which require a full charge at least once a week, preferably more often). Get adjustable ones, so you can match any battery type you get
increase the capacity of your charger to match the per battery amp requirements of the battery mfg
 
All the comments you've received are right on the money. In the past two years we've travelled over 10,000 miles (Great Loop and two full summers of cruising in the Pacific Northwest on a 2012 R27 classic. It was a stock vessel with the following additions.

We added:
- air conditioning
- a dometic plug in cooler/freezer
- a Thule Rocket box on top for miscellaneous items we didn't want inside
- AIS, was added by previous owner
-Garmin GXM54 for weather when out of cell phone coverage. (saved our bacon several times)
- Memory foam mattress topper.
- 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter
- larger shelf in cave for toaster, Keurig, Instapot
- all LED lights
- two, 12vdc Caframo fans

Boat performed well and we continue to have a great time experiencing the world from the water. See our blog for more details: https://mikebethadventures.blogspot.com/
 
We are currently doing the loop aboard Piglet a C28. We do not anchor out as we have an elderly dog 70lbs. We have found it to be a good fit for us and considering we lived on a 45ft trawler for 15 years I think it says a lot. Apparently the c28 does a little better on fuel than the c26 and ranger tugs. We regularly cruise at 8MPH getting 5mpg. When we started the loop we travelled with another c28 that reported the same MPG. We travelled together around NJ on the outside we set our boats to run at 10gallons hr burn he was travelling 21-22 mph we were getting 19-20 mph. On the Trent Severn where speeds are restricted we made 400+ miles between fill-ups. The C28 is a small boat but long range cruising is possible just keep weight to minimum.
 
Almost all of our boating on our Tug has been long term cruising - four seasons in the PNW (including to Skagway and back) and two on the Great Loop. We have made a number of upgrades to the boat to make it more suitable for this usage:
Mattress topper cut to fit, with fitted bed pads and bottom sheets.
Vesper AIS transponder alerts you to other traffic and their speed and course, and alerts them to your location, speed and course. Makes bridge-to-bridge calls to coordinate passing with VHF radio easy since you know the name of the boat.
Two older iPads running Aquamaps, one for helm, one for observer. iPads must be cellular capable to get GPS location (which is excellent, better than Garmin MFD) without a separate GPS device, but do not need a cellular plan. The newest iPads do not have as good a GPS. Samson tablets are also said to be good. Our Garmin MFD showed us plowing a lot of ground on the inland canals.
Handheld VHF radio for use on a different frequency, when in cockpit or dinghy and for monitoring Ch 16 when Garmin MFD is turned off. Our Standard Horizon handheld VHF also has GPS coordinates and velocity.
Rocna 22 lb anchor with rode marked every 25 feet. Raw water washdown line with hose and nozzle in bow locker (love it). Rotate TV showing depth and chart for viewing while on foredeck when picking anchor location and setting anchor.
Hawkeye low-current-draw depth sounder for use when anchored and Garmin MFD is turned off.
Battery monitor for house battery state of charge and charging/discharging rate.
RIB light weight dinghy stored on Weaver mounts, 2.5 HP Suzuki outboard engine. PNW barnacles, mussels and oysters are hard on inflatable tubes when you pull them up to or on top of rocks and relaunch. Storage bag mounted under seat at minimum stores VHF radio, InReach, small bottle of extra fuel and a bailer when away from the boat.
DeLorme/Garmin InReach for emergency signaling and messaging as an alternative to an EPIRB.
Cellular booster for better connectivity in weak signal areas, now supplemented with Starlink for internet when not moving.
Second solar panel with both on MPPT controllers.
Nebo transponder for locating and contacting other cruisers. Also allows family to track our boat.
Laptop computer, small Canon TR-150 Pixma printer (ink cartridges don’t dry up between uses) and tiny scanner which allows us to make copies.
B&D Dustbuster Flex Lithium vacuum cleaner.
400 feet of polypropylene floating line on spool for stern tie, particularly in PNW when anchorages do not have flat bottoms. The long length allows you to take the line ashore with your dinghy, loop around a tree or rock and back to the boat, which has now drifted a hundred feet from when you left it to when you get back. Cleat off the bitter end and pull your boat back to where you want it near shore, cleating the middle of the line and putting some tension on the anchor rode. Hopefully, you do not need to go ashore again when you want to leave the next day.
Extensive first aid kit. Have never used it and hope to never need it.
Smallest available window mount air conditioner in place of rear window for use in marinas in hot or humid weather. It works really well. We have PNW Edition boat and no genset or installed A/C. We used it a lot on the Loop and occasionally this year in PNW.
Cruising guides, maps or charts for planning, Ports and Passes for PNW. With the ability to go faster, we do not worry as much about current charts as when we had a sailboat. That said, we use the Garmin MFD for current monitoring and planning, especially when the wind is picking up. Avoid wind against current.
Fuel jugs for 20 gallons of diesel when traveling in areas remote from fuel docks. Also fill up before going to Canada or other locations where fuel is considerably more expensive. However, the extra weight reduces our MPG.
Lithium battery jump starter.
Selection of tools consistent with your ability to utilize them and likeliness to need them. All the tools in your garage or workshop or truck will be unavailable to you when you are cruising.
Spare parts and supplies.
Spare engine and transmission oil, filters, change pump and two empty gallon jugs for used oil.
Quarters in USA, Loonies in Canada, for laundry and showers. Laundry supplies. Cleaning supplies.
After my wife caught Giardia in British Columbia, she insisted on a reverse osmosis watermaker. It has gotten very little use since the installation.
On our previous boat, we installed a composting toilet. With our high-fiber diet, it did not work as advertised. YMMV. You can easily extend the time between pumpouts by collecting urine in plastic jugs. Men can use directly, ladies with a feminine funnel or a bowl set inside the toilet bowl.

Barry Thompson
TOUCAN, R-27 Classic
 
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