D3 oil change filter has two oil seals

BB marine

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Fluid Motion Model
R-21
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Mainship 34 Pilot
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PORT-A-GEE
Changing the oil on the D3 is straight forward. Suck the oil out through the dip stick, remove the oil filter cap and replace the cartage filter.

Issues that I had at first with the oil filter it would leak. I was reluctant to tighten it to factory specs 25NM +5. Seemed to tight. I did not do that and it leaked. After that oil change I used a calibrated torque wrench and tightened it to 18 ft lbs which is just under 25 NM (24.4) and I never had a problem until this year.

I changed the oil and filter before leaving for our trip to the Florida panhandle. All went well. After changing the oil we went for a couple hour cruise. When we got back I checked the oil housing for leaks and found a small amount that had leaked out. I don't like oil leaks! The oil filter housing is directly above the alternator. I'm not sure how much damage if any the oil would do to the alternator if any but I don't want to find out. I checked the cap torque again at 18 Ft lbs and it was there. I then torqued it to 20 Ft lbs = 27.12 NM still within the 25NM + 5NM. During our trip 106hrs worth I checked the filter for leaks and it always appeared to be wet with oil but nothing alarming. ( it should not leak at all)

When I changed the oil and filter I spent some time inspecting the cap for cracks and the housing too. I didn't find any cracks but I did find an area on the housing that had a rough surface. This area was the mating surface to the rubber sealing gasket that comes with the filter oil kit 30788490. I removed the rubber sealing gasket located in the cap and inspected it and found it had some scuffing that could have been caused from the rough surface area found on the housing. Possibly causing the leak. I used some emery cloth to polish the rough surface found on the housing. I then cleaned up the inside of the cap and noticed an additional o-ring just above the threads in the cap. I had never paid attention to this before. I never really inspected the cap this close. I removed the o-ring inspected it, looked ok but it has been in there since the the engine was built. I called a Volvo dealer to see if they had the o-ring in stock and they did not. I asked if they replace it when they change the filter? He said "no I didn't even know there was one in there until you asked and I looked at the parts schematic.

I asked him to order the o-ring. Part # 30640790 cost $18.20 ( for a 2.00 o-ring) I believe this o-ring is a secondary seal that would seal any oil that leaks past the primary seal the Rubber gasket. So far with only a few hours of running the housing has been dry showing no sign of leaking.

I'm posting this to inform D3 owners that were not aware of this o-ring. I'm also posting to ask if other D3 owners have been changing this o-ring?

This is a thread that was posted a few years ago about this subject.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=14203&p=94476&hilit=d3+oil+filter#p94353
 
I had a really messy oil leak after a D3 filter change a few months ago. My diagnosis was that the O ring that came with the new filter was too fat and had rolled out of the groove it is supposed to seat in as I tightened the cap down. I replaced it with the old O ring and have been dry/clean for 30+ engine hours since. BTW, when I Googled the 30640790 part number just now, I got images showing it between the bottom of the cartridge and the bottom of the cannister, i.e., far from the cap. I'm confused.
 
The o-ring is installed in the cap. The orientation is rubber gasket that comes with cartridge filter is installed in the groove close to the top of the cap. The o-ring in question fits in a groove just above the threads in the cap. The Rubber gasket seal seals by compression cap being threaded on the housing and torqued. The o-ring being a secondary seal acts as a wiper seal. Sealing between the outside of the housing and inside of the cap. The schematic sequence should show, cap , filter, rubber sealing gasket ( comes with filter) then o-ring all are installed in the cap.
 
I agree the drawing is confusing. The O-ring fits inside the cap but the exploded view shows it outside near the other mating surface (canister). The filter cartridge fits inside the canister and the exploded view shows it outside. You have to imagine the two items crossing each other, filter cartridge going down through the O-ring and into the canister, and the O-ring moving up into the cap while the filter cartridge is passing through it downward. Not the most intuitive drawing for sure. As Brian mentions the additional O-ring is not shown at all.

What is also missing in the drawing is a cage that is snapped into the cap. The filter cartridge slides onto the cage before the combined set of cap, cage, and cartridge goes into the canister. The cartridge fits very tight on the cage and the cage swivels within the cap making the old filter cartridge difficult to remove with all the dirty oil and such. I use a rod to push down the center of the cage while holding the cartridge. It’s a messy oily operation and not shown in the diagram at all.

Thanks Brian for the heads up on the additional O-ring. I will look for it next time. I have fortunately not had a leak in this area.

Curt
 
I just changed my D3-200i-g oil filter for the first time and noticed there is an inner "basket" that appears to be connected to the cap. It is realtively loose, but seems to be connected firmly. It slides inside the filter - perhaps it is for alignment or something?

Since I couldn't figure it out, I put everything back and installed the new filter. Everything is working well, but I am curious why it isn't listed in the manual or anywhere I have found yet.

Anyway know about this and how it is attached?
 
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