D4 impeller install

[Cutwater28GG]

I’m at the boat today doing the service d4 260 cutwater

Can I do the impeller change from the stern rather than the bow end so I don’t have to take the belts off?

Eg take the plate off the where the water enters the impeller?

 

[Cutwater28GG]

Image here

 

[dbsea]

I believe so yes but verify with your manual. This is how I do it on my D6-435 engine.

 

[watson1987]

Yes, you remove it from the stern end, this looks identical to my D4-300

No belt removal necessary

 

[Cutwater28GG]

Marvelous thanks.

 

[dbsea]

just don't drop the bolts in the bilge! they are Volvo proprietary... speaking from experience. 🙂

 

[Cutwater28GG]

It’s nice they put two in the impeller kit box.

What’s interesting is I have two kits and only one has the long o ring.

But seriously. How the hell do I pull the impeller out! It feels welded to the shaft!

 

[dbsea]

It’s nice they put two in the impeller kit box.

What’s interesting is I have two kits and only one has the long o ring.

But seriously. How the hell do I pull the impeller out! It feels welded to the shaft!

does your impeller have a thread? if so you can get a threaded puller to assist. If not, two bent angle needle nose pliers will be your best bet.

 

[watson1987]

does your impeller have a thread? if so you can get a threaded puller to assist. If not, two bent angle needle nose pliers will be your best bet.

The D4 does not have a thread 🙂

Vise grips are your friend here; it is tight, good luck!

 

[CaptT]

I used A LOT of WD40, a pair of narrow vice grips, 2 long needle nose pliers, and all the patience I had left in my body. It is a royal PIA, and I'd never want to have to change one in a rough sea, but it does eventually come out. Be careful not to use the side of the casing to pry on as it will score very easily. The new impeller will go in a bit easier when using zip ties to compress it ,but once again, WD 40 did help.
The two long needle nosed pliers, one each grabbing a vein on opposite sides did help but I wound up tearing off a few veins in the process, which actually helped in the removal process. The puller I purchased to help with the removal wouldn't fit into the tight space available. I may look at modifying it a bit and trying it the next time I have to change the impeller.
A tip I got from the mechanic at my marina was to use some Permatex gasket high tack sealant to hold the long O ring in place when reinstalling the cover.
This is what I used https://a.co/d/a8HQ5eP
Hope this helps.
Terry

 

[Cutwater28GG]

Upgraded to the 8inch angle nose pliers. And pulling from the hard to reach side got it done - obviously!

The incoming pipe was cracked so that was also replaced with new hose clamps.

Wow getting that last top right bolt in is challenging.

3 hours with two trips to west marine and a hardware store.

 

[dbsea]

3 hours with two trips to west marine and a hardware store.

Sounds right on target for a boat project! 😀

 

[Cutwater28GG]

Another tip go buy a 6oz bottle of glycerine from cvs. Pour it everywhere.

 

[Cutwater28GG]

3 hours with two trips to west marine and a hardware store.

Sounds right on target for a boat project! 😀

Seriously. I was quite pleased! No leaks so all good. Now just the wretched transmission service.

 

[Gin]

I’ve now done my fourth annual impeller replacement on the D4-300 engine. Here are a few of my “lessons learned”:

• - It gets easier. But it is never easy.
  - It’s all about having the right tools (as for so many things in life’s projects).
  - For me, the right tool is the Jabsco 50070-0080 impeller puller. Expensive, and not the most common model to find. I managed to find a used one at a great price and it’s the kind of thing that used is as reliable as new.
  - Put something under the impeller to catch the bolts or tools that might slip out of your hand and drop into the bilge. A small plastic “dish pan” can work well. I keep meaning to buy one of the “collapsable” ones, which would extra easy to get into place.
  - Prespray the impeller with lubricant (I go for Dawn dish soap in the spray bottle, but WD 40 and similar work too).
  - The “bump-the-engine” technique of getting the impeller to start spinning out can work pretty well. The one time I tried it required 2 or 3 bumps to make any helpful progress.
  - In replacing the impeller, Dawn dish soap again is a great lube. And of course, zip ties are indispensable.
  - GREAT TIP: Put a good waterproof marine grease on the spines of the shaft or the impeller before working the impeller into the housing. It will make removal the next time easier, especially if your impeller does “hard duty” (long service interval, corrosive elements, etc). This tip doesn’t get mentioned a lot for some reason.

I’m now resigned to the fact that, for me, it will never be easy. But it has gotten easier. And the tips on this forum have been a big reason for that.

Gini

 

[Happy Endings]

I’ve done it twice now, I found it easier to just remove the pump and then use the Jabasco tool on the deck to remove the impeller. Sounds of those other tips sound fantastic and I’ll have to try them.

 

[Cutwater28GG]

I though a lot of the manuals say to only use glycerine products in the impeller as petroleum based can damage the impeller?

I’m sore today after yesterdays efforts!

 

[dbsea]

I though a lot of the manuals say to only use glycerine products in the impeller as petroleum based can damage the impeller?

I’m sore today after yesterdays efforts!

I've heard this too! I don't think I'd ever spray WD40 into my sea water pump!