D4 Impeller Puller

marob

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2020
Messages
79
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Vessel Name
Viking Rose
Have a new C28 with 130 hours and will be changing the raw water impeller. I have seen pictures of a bolt with a threaded center with a bolt going through to pull the impeller but can not find the thread size for it. Have seen other pullers but not sure if there is enough room to use. Thank you
 
I use needle nose pliers. Sometimes I use two needle nose pliers if I have to walk it out. I wrap a zip tie around the new impeller to compress it after sliding it halfway done in, I cut the zip tie and then just push it the rest of the way. I’m not against fancy tools but I don’t think it is necessary for this job. Good luck!
Best, Bobby
 
I don't think the treaded pullers work because the D4 impeller is splined and doesn't have any threads. I bought one of these (smaller model).

https://www.amazon.com/Jabsco-50070-004 ... pel&sr=8-4

I had to replace the T handle on the puller with a bolt because there wasn't enough clearance to turn it.
 
Bobby P.":1uovl1a3 said:
I use needle nose pliers. Sometimes I use two needle nose pliers if I have to walk it out. I wrap a zip tie around the new impeller to compress it after sliding it halfway done in, I cut the zip tie and then just push it the rest of the way. I’m not against fancy tools but I don’t think it is necessary for this job. Good luck!
Best, Bobby
This is my attack/solution as well. 🙂 Quite honestly though, it really does not matter trying to get the impeller blades angled correctly when placing the new impeller into the pump housing because as soon as the engine is turned on the impeller will be rotated and the blades will bend the way they need to. Also, it makes little sense to take care extracting the old impeller from it pump housing, because it should be discarded any rate. Mind you, try to avoid pieces if care not taken as you don't want pieces getting sucked down into the heat exchanger body.
 
I second the jabsco puller recommendation. I've got a different engine but the puller will work on any as long as there is clearance for the handle/bolt. On my boat I can't even get both hands on it but with a little practice am able to operate it with one hand. A bit tricky until it takes a bite on the impeller.
 
It's been mentioned before but after the cover is off, bumping the starter (barely) will spin the impeller right out.
 
If I am changing the water pump impeller that has a belt driven pump I try to complete more inspections and adjustments with one task. The D4 has a belt driven pump. The belt should be inspected and adjusted once a year or every 200 hrs. When changing the impeller this is a perfect time to do belt adjustments and inspections. Loosen the belt adjustment bracket and slide the belt off the water pump pulley. Now remove the impeller pump cover. Squeeze a small amount if dish soap into the pump housing and lubricate the impeller blades. Grab the pump pulley and start to turn the pulley in the direction the pump turns. Turn the pulley a couple of revolutions this will lubrications the impeller. Now grab the impeller with small pliers and give it a pull turn the pulley at the same time and the impeller will fall out. Repeat the installation in the same matter. I use zip tie to start the impeller in place. Once pump shaft engages into the impeller I cut the ties turn the pulley and push the impeller in place. The oring is always the PIA part I use a little bit of gasoline to hold it. Install the belt back onto the pulley and adjust the pulley for proper tension as per the owners manual. I know easier said then done. The room is limited but both service items need to be done so do them at the same time.
 
If you go the route of the pliers try using the right angle needle nose pliers. It allows you pull with one hand while keeping the jaws tight with the other hand.

Stuart
 
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