De-barnacle stern and bow thrusters

[Pauliemv]

Happy Holidays everyone…
Any advice on how to clean both stern and bow thrusters. A step by step would be most helpful. My first year as owner and I’ve lots I’m still not sure of. Oh and how do you keep the prop zinc from spinning off??? Any advice on that as well please.
Paul

 

[Bosn Mate]

Paul:

I have an R29 so some of what I do may not be applicable but I am providing as it might be helpful:

* I extended the anti-fouling paint as far into the thruster tunnels as possible, ensuring that the area when the thruster props are remain clear.

* I found any barnacles on the bronze gear house can be removed with a small wire brush. I then painted the gear houses with ZRC Cold Galvanizing Compound. I could have painted with Pettit Vivid but it would have required more preparation which ZRC does not.

* I have had only minimal amounts of barnacles on the props which I have removed with a plastic scraper and soft wire brush. While changing the zincs, I remove the props and clean.

* I have Side-Power Thrusters; the zinc is firmly held on with a bolt. I have never lost a zinc but they do need to be replaced annually as they are small.

Hope this helps!

Mike

 

[wa7pug]

Same on mine per above .... IF you have the boat out of the water on a trailer, get it with a pressure washer RIGHT AWAY and it is bookoo easier to clean growth even inside thrusters, and I also found another tool that is very VERY forgiving as well as effective: those black plastic paint scrapers are my FAVOURITE!
Hope this gives you some more tools in the bag

 

[mikee30]

For the prop zinc, I add a little loctite glue to the nut and tighten down against the zinc cone. This has worked for 800 miles or so. Good luck.

 

[doke01]

I remove the props each year, tape over the shaft, and use a scraper and wire brush to remove the barnacles. Then I paint the tunnels, starting from the inside, moving out with a 2.5" - 3" brush. After the paint is dry, I remove the zinc and replace. If you unscrew the screw and have trouble getting the zinc off, just use the end of the allen key wrench, stick it in the screw hole, and lever it off. Then I grease up the shaft and re-install the prop (after scraping and painting while out). It is good to remove the prop periodically because the prop can strip if debris gets sucked in. It can be difficult to remove and replace if you haven't done it in a long time. Especially in the water.

 

[GaylesFaerie]

All above too plus:

When removing the prop retaining nut the whole prop may rotate preventing you from loosening the nut. This can happen if it is stuck and hasn't been removed in a while. To remove the nut you can use a wooden stick and pass it thru two of the prop blades so that when you try to loosen the nut the wood will jam against the gear leg holding the prop in place and give you the leverage you need to loosen the nut.

After removing the retaining nut, if you can't pull the prop off its spline, you can use the same piece of soft wood (pine) to gently knock the back side of each blade to push the prop off the spline. Be gentle here, spread your tapping across each blade and be patient. When replacing the prop use some anti-seize grease on the spline.

Finally, before affixing the new zinc, I use a Dremel brush to clean the contact surface on the gear housing to mate the zinc to. Its such a small zinc you want to make sure you have good contact. I even add a little bit electric conducting grease to the surface as well.