Did it again

ixlr8

Well-known member
Joined
May 2, 2017
Messages
756
Fluid Motion Model
R-27 (Outboard)
Hull Identification Number
FLMT2762C818
Non-Fluid Motion Model
2018 R-27OB w/Yam 300
Vessel Name
Maggie
On our first outing on the Penobscot Bay here in Maine, we had the sonar transducer mount break free from the hull. I cleaned things up, sanded the hull and the mount with 36 grit sandpaper to roughen them up to ensure a good bond and I used 3M 4200 to reattach the mount. Well, on our second trip, not only did the sonar transducer mount break free from the hull again, but the bilge pump just behind it did as well. The bilge pump mount appears to have been epoxied in place and there is no sign of the epoxy sticking to the hull, it is all on the mount. We are loving the boat, but it makes me wonder what else I can't see/access that might break free in the future.
I tried to upload pictures to my TugNuts album but I kept getting upload error codes, so no pics to post yet.
 
ixlr8":1oi2utod said:
I tried to upload pictures to my TugNuts album but I kept getting upload error codes, so no pics to post yet.

Space has been freed up and server has been restarted and verified.

Cheers,

Bruce
 
Thanks Bruce.
If folks are interested, pictures of loose parts have been uploaded to my album "Our RT-27"
 
ixlr8":5uubvkyi said:
On our first outing on the Penobscot Bay here in Maine, we had the sonar transducer mount break free from the hull. I cleaned things up, sanded the hull and the mount with 36 grit sandpaper to roughen them up to ensure a good bond and I used 3M 4200 to reattach the mount. Well, on our second trip, not only did the sonar transducer mount break free from the hull again, but the bilge pump just behind it did as well. The bilge pump mount appears to have been epoxied in place and there is no sign of the epoxy sticking to the hull, it is all on the mount. We are loving the boat, but it makes me wonder what else I can't see/access that might break free in the future.
I tried to upload pictures to my TugNuts album but I kept getting upload error codes, so no pics to post yet.

Jim: Your reattaching process for the sonar transducer must have been the same as what RT did/used 😉 😱 .... well it certainly correlates as much.... Sorry to hear this as it must be a disturbing issue as you say - "what else unseen will come loose...".

The forward bilge pump breaking loose is bad and it's located very close/adjacent to the sonar transducer, right ? Both accessed when lifting the step leading to the V-berth forward saloon.

You might check the mid and aft bilge pumps to ensure they aren't subject to the same faulty epoxy adhesive.

I've tugged pretty hard on my forward bilge pump and it does not budge, and the shower sump is close by and mine is firmly in place.

BTW.... How's the enclosure working out for you. Did Dave give you some advice on best way to attach the bungee cords and the attachments spigots to the upper hull.... and also best placement for them ?

The only thing coming loose on my boat at this time is the Holly-Teak artificial flooring at one or two edges. It's important to address this ASAP as dirt/crud can creep under where this flooring is loose making it difficult to glue back down.

Two of my V-berth night lights have burned out.... 🙁

However, my new cockpit table Geralick Table Pedestal is a work of art and very well designed -- no more table wobbly for us now. :lol: RT needs to use up their stock wobbly spindly cockpit table pedestal mounts and start using the Geralick product for just a fraction more in cost IMO. Of course, everything can be improved upon, right ? Perfection is allusive. When you think you have achieved perfection you find out you haven't. 😱

[EDIT] I looked at your photos of the detached sonar traducer and fwd bilge pump assembly..... Crikey... horrors for sure. 🙁
 
ixlr8":mldbwg4e said:
On our first outing on the Penobscot Bay here in Maine, we had the sonar transducer mount break free from the hull. I cleaned things up, sanded the hull and the mount with 36 grit sandpaper to roughen them up to ensure a good bond and I used 3M 4200 to reattach the mount. Well, on our second trip, not only did the sonar transducer mount break free from the hull again, but the bilge pump just behind it did as well. The bilge pump mount appears to have been epoxied in place and there is no sign of the epoxy sticking to the hull, it is all on the mount. We are loving the boat, but it makes me wonder what else I can't see/access that might break free in the future.
I tried to upload pictures to my TugNuts album but I kept getting upload error codes, so no pics to post yet.

Just a few thoughts.
Perhaps the sonar mount is contaminated with some chemical. Sanding may not get it clean. May need some alcohol and.or soap to clean it before glueing. Also curing time is important. Don’t fill until 24h or more have passed. Or the antifreeze may attack the bonding. Perhaps an incorrect antifreeze is used.
 
stwendl":gtekt5xg said:
Just a few thoughts.
Perhaps the sonar mount is contaminated with some chemical. Sanding may not get it clean. May need some alcohol and.or soap to clean it before glueing. Also curing time is important. Don’t fill until 24h or more have passed. Or the antifreeze may attack the bonding. Perhaps an incorrect antifreeze is used.
After sanding, I cleaned surfaces up with Acetone per 4200 instructions, those instructions say NOT to use alcohol as it will prevent curing. I waited greater than 24h before filling with antifreeze. 4200 is only rated at having a 25 PSI bonding strength with some plastics, the 5200 has 3x the rating and I will try that next per factory recommendations.
 
I have used 5200 for many adhesion applications. To get the best results there should be a pressure applied to the object glueing for the first 24 hours.Many times its hard to get plastic to stick even to 5200. You must rough up the plastic surface with 80 grit paper. When 5200 adheres ( it must bond completely) it usually is stuck forever. If I am trying to get a permanent adhesion wood mounted object ( bilge pump to hull)) to the hull or even plastic (transducer ) I would use west system epoxy with a filler. Mix it up to a consistency go peanut butter and apply it to the object to be glued and the area on the hull. Push it down and give a right left motion while pushing it down to squeeze air pockets out. Let it cure and that should be a permanent bond to the hull. Make sure the hull is scuffed with 80 grit and the wiped down with a de-waxer solvent before doing the application.
 
Epoxy is the way to go. If the glass surface wasn't cleaned with acetone during the original install the epoxy would not bond. Fiberglass resin exudes a wax coating when it cures which has to be removed with solvent to get any sort of adhesive to stick properly. Even when sanded the wax coating will persist unless removed with solvent.
 
Wondering what's going to break next in boating is like wiping snot from a 5 year old's face. No matter how clean you get it you know there's more where that came from. That's why they call it boating!
 
JoeLane":1ejw5t1p said:
Wondering what's going to break next in boating is like wiping snot from a 5 year old's face. No matter how clean you get it you know there's more where that came from. That's why they call it boating!
Once the area is sanded and de-waxed with solvent, epoxy adheres quite well to polyester resin. I have had good success with west system epoxy products when repairing fiberglass and adhering wood, plastic, even metal. I agree working, fixing, maintenance and having fun is what we call boating.
 
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