Diesel fuel additive

R

Red Fury

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 9, 2015
Messages
59
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2734B717
Vessel Name
Bonny Lass
MMSI Number
338244197
Hello All,

We purchased our 2017 R27 Classic in June of this year. Getting to the end of the season now and we are in learn mode still. I am wondering if there is a preferred diesel additive that most are using in their fuel systems. I believe that during our orientation we were told that "Stanadyne" would be good. I have a note written down that says this was for the biocide properties. I have looked at the Stanadyne diesel additives and it appears that this is more of a performance boost than a biocide stabilizer. Walmart carries Sta-bil which has a diesel biocide formula and a fuel stabilizer version also. I also want to make sure that we don't use anything that may void the warranty.

Thanks for the input,

Bryan
 
Bryan,

I also have the same question. This coming Tuesday and Wednesday I will be taking a Marine Diesel Engine Class from Nigel Calder the person that wrote the book on diesel engines. I will share what I find out later this week.

Richard
 
Richard,

Thanks, that would be great.
 
Yanmar recommends FPPF. I treat every gallon that goes into the boat year round. Over 900 hours without any fuel issues.
 
Biobor is a good biocide. A lot of commercial guys use it. We've been using it for the three years that we've owned the boat. I add it at start and end of season plus once or twice in between. No signs of bio-gunk showing up in the filters. We also use the famous FPPF to treat every gallon that goes in during the season. Anything that smells that bad has to be doing something...
 
Also use FPPFand biocide as well as keep tank full to reduce condensation which creates space for water in fuel, promotes algae growth, baaad!
 
Guys: I also use a biocide / anti-microbial growth additive. Manufactured here in Australia it is called 'F10' and is useful for all types of engines, but specifically marine diesels. All the local marine diesel maintainers swear by it. Not sure if you can get it over your way - just for info. Regards, Stevan
 
This is always a who's product is better question. Engine manufacturers are hesitant to recommend products unless they make or sell them. Stanadyne is a manufacturer of Diesel fuel injection components and have a good reputation and in my "opinion" have a good additive product . There are many other products out there too. Its great to ask opinions and and get reviews from from others. Do your research find out why you should even use an additive. I have tried to get a direct answer from Volvo on what is a good additive and what they recommend with no real answer. I asked the service rep from Volvo in my area what to use and his response was find one that adds Lubricity, breaks down water, stabilizes the fuel and make sure it doesn't have alcohol in it. Read every one of them and they all claim to do that! I found an article last year that was very informative. Google; Steve D'Antonio Marine Consulting Diesel Fuel Additive , Part I and Part II. It was a good read for me to understand if I need an additive and why. There are many articles on this subject just make sure they are not tied to a product. I use PRI-D. I'm not saying it is any better then the rest of them, because I actually don't know if it is. It is my choice in what I researched. Does it work ? I don't know. I haven't had any fuel related problems yet but I only have 235 hours on the engine. All I have to go by is my Racor filter has been clean in three changes and no water in the filter when I drained it. The Volvo filter on the engine no water (assuming it is clean I didn't find the need to cut it open to check) very little smoke at start up. That isn't much to say it is working but thats all I got.
Brian Brown
26 Cutwater
PORT-A-GEE
 
I have used FPPF since new as recommended by Mack Boring, the Yanmar distributor. One ounce per 10 gallons and when I winterized the boat I would fill the tank. Knock wood, no issues.
 
I am using Howes Meaner Power Kleaner diesel treatment, because that is what Port Boat House sent me with my Spares and Service Kit, and what the previous owner seems to have used. It's supposed to do the cleaning and lubricating as well as taking care of water. I'm hoping its up to the task for winterizing in the cold Yukon climate. Anyone know anything about it?
 
Thanks for all the input. I have not looked into Howes Meaner Power Kleaner diesel treatment, but I will. I have also found there are several different flavors of FPPF to choose from. I have looked at the Biobor, Sta-bil and a new product I saw in the new issue of Boat US magazine I received today called Valvtect Bioguard (full page add pg. 33). I'm just spinning in circles trying to decide how to proceed. Taking the advice from POTR-A-GEE, my answer to looking into this is to prevent bacterial growth and gunk from building up anywhere in my fuel system that may cause issues down the road. The manual for my Volvo D3 220 says not to use any additives, but also mentions controlling bacteria and other related growths in the fuel. It specifically says that adding anything with alcohol in it will void the warranty. It would be nice if Volvo would just say "XXX product is recommended". Guess that would be too difficult. Still waiting to see what Richard finds out this week in his diesel seminar.
 
We use Valvtect Bioguard Plus 6 in our 2105 Volvo D3-150. Three season and 170 hours later everything seems to be just fine. Never any water in either filter or any other issues that we are aware of. Limited water around here and retirement is still a few years off so she sits for 8 months without being used.
 
To balance some of the positive comments about additives, let me say that I have used my boat for 5 seasons now and have never used fuel additives. I have never had a problem with water in the fuel nor have I seen any condition that any of the other benefits of additives would improve. THAT BEING SAID........ I AM planning on adding FTTP to my tank for winter storage and will continue using it as I add fuel next year. I can't explain exactly why I am doing it now other than it can't hurt! I guess It's like insurance, you really don't need it until you need it!
 
Stevan47, F10 does not appear to be available here in the US. At least Amazon is not carrying it.
 
I lifted the following from an old Tugnuts entry. It is why I use an additive, a biocide and keep the tank full. This Information was from one of the few boat mechanics I have met who knew what he was talking about. He very quickly was able to rattle off some the common Yanmar 4by issues I knew about as well as a few I did not.

"Spoke to a mechanic out of North Island Boats in Anacortes at the last Seattle boat show about common problems for the Yanmar 4by as it sits in a Ranger. One of the common issues is this fuel strainer pulling from the tank. He said if you don't hear a steady buzz when turning the ignition to on position this is a sign that there could be gunk in this strainer. One more think to add to your start up list of things to check."

Once you get to this point it is likely your fuel will need to be polished as the screen would probably not be the only place gunk would have built up.
 
Just returned from the Diesel engine course taught be Nigel Calder and he recommends No Additives. He is not sure that additives do any good, but doesn’t think they will hurt if one uses them. He makes sure the fuel he is pumping in the tank is clean by sampling the fuel in a clear jar prior to putting in the tank. If any cloudiness, particles or water is seen he will go to another marina for fueling. In addition if your filters are quit dirty when it is time to change, he feels it is time to clean the fuel tank. Also I learned at the class that No2 diesel is stable for 2 years so there is no need to stabilize the fuel over winter layup.

My local Volvo Penta dealer, Seven Seas, said that Volvo Penta recommends not to use additives. Don’t know if your warranty will be void if you do.

Ranger Tug (Tim Bates) recommends using Stanadyne for Volvo Penta Diesel engines.

So that is all I know.

Hope this helps, I think I will follow Nigel’s plan.
 
Yanmar also recommends no additives.

Most everyone within the Ranger/Cutwater community has a Racor pre-filter with a drain in the bottom.

I use a clean soda bottle to draw off about 3" into the bottle about once a month or a few engine hours after taking on fuel.

After the fuel settles undisturbed for 10 minutes or so, I examine the bottle in a light. If there is water in the fuel, it will likely settle to the bottom.

In either case, you can decant the fuel back into the tank, reserving a few ounces in the bottle in case there is water you can't see. Dispose of the bottle and residual fuel in the hazardard waste container at your marina or engine shop.

If there is water, continue soundings every few engine hours to determine how much water your filter will take in before a "water in the fuel" alarm is raised - it isn't much. I picked up a bad batch of fuel and had water at every sounding - sometimes after only a few minutes of engine operation in rough water. Eventually, all of it came out of the tank and future soundings were clear.

There is no absolute harm to a small amount of water in the Diesel fuel - the separators will catch it before damage is done to the engine. Just be patient and draw it off as you must.

I installed a Racor-like pre-pre filter to draw off the water before it gets to the "water in the fuel" sensor. Since then, no problems at all.

If water remains in a tank for an extended period (months in Florida in the summer), a black crud will grow on the water/fuel interface - eventually clogging the inlet lines and filters. This is serious and must be removed by cleaning the tank,.
 
I forgot to mention that biodiesel is only stable for 45 days from the date of refining. Biodiesel unlike No2 diesel holds water in suspension which can destroy fuel system components. Also some areas one travels, diesel includes a small percentage of biodiesel which will change its stability period. I believe this is outside the US, but one should be sure what they are putting in their tank. Niegel who is an environmentalist recommends against biodiesel.

Also forgot to mention keeping the tank full to minimize condensation.
 
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