And now, the rest of the story......
Sunday, June 17th
Ganges Marina
We awaken to a beautiful PNW day. Just partly cloudy skies along with an abundance of sunshine topped off with just a hint of a breeze rippling the water. Our plan today is to head north to Ganges. We will determine whether we are going to hang on the hook or stay in the marina once we get closer.
First to depart will be Moondance as the slip he currently occupies, has a very shallow spot not more than a boat length astern. The plan is to spring him off the dock thus avoiding the shallow spot. Bruce gently nudges Moondance in reverse as I take hold of his stern line. Once clear, of the dock, I take a turn on the cleat and the back end comes around. Now he is lined up for a straight shot down the fairway and into East Sound. Willies Tug quickly follows Moondance and then it will be Destiny’s turn.
Once clear of the marina, we our adventure for the day begins. We head south out of East Sound in the beautiful sunshine topped with misty clouds playing hide n seek with homes on the hillside. An Eagle soars above as if leading the way.
We make our approach to Harney Channel were we will make a turn to the West. A Washington State Ferry is making its way through the channel toward Anacortes. We proceed through Harney Channel once again amazed with the beauty of this channel. Small rocky islands covered with pine trees. Little nooks and crannies line the shoreline.
As we enter the San Juan Channel and head north, we pass with Jones Island off to the West. Once beyond Jones, I make our call to Canadian Customs to clear into Canada. The process is painless with the Nexus Card and we soon have our clearance number. We do however have to be in Bedwell Harbor at an appointed time just in case they want to take a closer look. We arrive with time to spare. We simply stand off of the dock as Moondance and Willies Tug go ashore to clear. Within thirty minutes we are all cleared and we continue our trip north.
By now the breeze is beginning to build. Wind chop is starting to roll through the channel. We determine that hanging on the hook in Ganges would leave us exposed to any stronger wind and call ahead for a reservation at the dock. The harbormaster is more than accommodating and gets us all on a single pier.
Once we are all secured, we head to town to provision. As we shop, the wind continues to build. We pick up our stores and wine and head back to our little flotilla. The winds are gusting now to close to 20 knots. From our vantage point, we can see the anchorage is pretty lumpy. We are glad we made the decision to come inside today….
Once again, cocktails and dinner are served on Destiny. The six of us sit around her table and laugh and talk late into the evening. What more could you ask for? Good food, good wine, good friends. All on the water.
Monday, June 18th:
Wow, what a difference a few hours can make. We wake to a mirror like surface on the water. Not a breeze is blowing. The sun just making it appearance off to the east. Today, we are headed to Conover Cove on Wallace Island. This is a great little anchorage within the Provincial Park System. There is a single dock that will hold six to eight boats or, you can drop a bow anchor and run your stern line ashore to one of the many rings that have been placed. We chose to anchor.
As we make our way north on the Trincomali Channel, we spot two very large Eagles resting on a channel marker. We slow to get a few photos and then move on.
Once we arrive at Conover, Maureen takes Destiny in first. We set her big Rocna and then run our stern line ashore. Once all is secure, I row out to meet Moondance. Bruce follows my directions upon entering the cove staying to the starboard side of the entrance, as it is quite shallow. Once inside the plan is to drop his anchor, back down to Destiny and raft them together. It is not meant to be though. The bottom was so weedy that the Bruce Anchor could not penetrate. It simply kept coming up full of weeds. After the fourth attempt we decide to simply hang on Destiny’s big Rocna. Once Moondance is secure, we hail Willies Tug and have them come in. They take a position on Destiny’s starboard side. All is now secure.
Once all is secure, we move over to Moondance’s cockpit where we enjoy a nice lunch of Chicken burgers, chips, and great company.
We spy two otters running along the shoreline. We sit back and watch as they go about their day. Suddenly one dives into the water and we think he is headed our way. Then to our amazement, he climbs back onto the rocks carrying a crab that was almost as big as himself! The crab puts up a good fight but in the end, the otter wins!
Now it is time for us to go ashore to find our driftwood, which we will adorn with our vessel names as well as the date of our visit. There is an old cabin on the island that is covered with driftwood from most of the vessels that have visited. We placed one last year on our visit with Zuma.
We also take along a bottle of wine, six glasses and the Bocce Balls for a rousing game. We explain the rules to Herb and Willie who quickly take the lead and game! And to think they claim that they have never played before… I think we were had!
Now it is time to head to our flotilla for cocktails and a dinner of Enchiladas which Maureen had prepared as we motored up. We start the evening with chips, salsa, and Bruce’s amazing Margaritas (which he taught Maureen how to make).
Once again, we spend another great evening with our great friends in an incredible location!
Tuesday, June 19th:
We awaken this morning to a brilliant blue sky above. Since it is still early, we have no sunshine in the cove as we sit in the shadow of the great pines of Wallace Island. Another morning without even a hint of a breeze. The water reflects the image of the trees and sky as if it were one big mirror. A harbor seal pokes his head up as if to check out the strange looking objects that take over his home each day. I sit in the Pilot House admiring the view while awaiting the water to boil for coffee. Maureen is still sound asleep. Morning is such an incredible time of day. The peacefulness that surrounds you. The color of the sky. The special light that fills the air as the sun just makes its appearance for the first time each day. I am so glad that most people don’t understand the beauty that they miss each day by being in bed…
Herb takes Jake to shore for his first walk while Bruce is busy on Moondance making coffee. I sit back and just take it all in. Our plan for today is to be out of Conover no later than 10:00. We will make our way to Ladysmith where we plan to spend the night at the Community Marina (AKA “The Maritime Society”) The trip today is to be a short one. Just 12 miles.
Before we depart the cove though, there is one more task at hand. We need to take our driftwood sign and hang it on the cabin. We have attached this years onto last years creating a “chain of events”. Once Bruce and I have completed this, it is back to our flotilla for breakfast and getting them ready for the next leg of our journey.
Right on cue, at 10:00 am, we toss Herb and Willie their lines and they drift away from Destiny. We give them time to clear the shallow areas and then set Moondance free. Bruce nudges her away from Destiny using Moondance’s twin thrusters. He now makes his way out into the Trincomali Channel.
Now it is time to get Destiny underway. We start by pulling the stern line in. Next I go forward to the bow and begin to retrieve her big Rocna. It is the moment of truth here. This was the first time that we have used our anchor on Destiny. While I know I should have, I had not tested the windlass before now. While it worked flawlessly deploying, will it work retrieving? With Maureen at the helm, I go forward to bring it on board. Maureen bumps the throttle forward as I hit the up button. The chain makes its way aboard. Once all is on board and secured, we carefully make our way out of the cove and into the channel. Maureen turns the bow to the north and bumps our speed up to 7 knots. What a great day to be out on the water. Big billowing clouds, a light breeze rippling the water and two Ranger Tugs off of our Starboard Bow.
I take this time to do a little housekeeping on Destiny. With the built in vacuum, this is an easy task to accomplish. Once I have all in order, I take the helm from Maureen so she can go below and shower.
Our ride is uneventful with the beautiful sunshine and stunning backdrops. Once we start up the channel to Ladysmith, I reach out to the Harbor Master via channel 66a and secure overnight moorage for our little flotilla. First in will be Destiny. We have to head down the fairway to about the midway point and then execute a 360. With the Tug, this would have simply been a matter of stopping center channel and spinning her with her thrusters. With Destiny, we only have a bow thruster. This does not stop Maureen from executing a perfect 360 though. It is just a matter of doing a number of forward – reverse maneuvers. As we approach the dock, two gentlemen who are already secured come to offer their assistance. They make the comment that we have the quietest thrusters that they have ever heard. Maureen informs them that we have only a bow thruster and it was so quiet due to the fact she did not use it. As we nudge up to the dock, I simply step ashore with the stern line and secure it. I then grab the bowline and she is now secure. Once we are secure, Bruce brings Moondance in followed by Willies Tug.
We spend our afternoon walking about town. Before we know it, it is once again time for happy hour. Once again, we gather on Destiny’s fly bridge to be able to take in the view. What a way to live! We often remark that who would have thought ten years ago, we would be living this type of a lifestyle. While we owned a Catalina 25 at that time, we used it for lake sailing. While we cruised a number of beautiful locations, none could compare to the places we have cruised and the people we have met aboard Karma and now Destiny.
Wednesday, June 20
Butchart Gardens Cove;
Since our journey will cover just over thirty miles today, we plan to make an early departure from Ladysmith. Our plan is to arrive early enough to be able to tour the Gardens. We head south out of Ladysmith down the west side of Salt Springs Island. As we approach Sansum Narrows, our speed increases to just shy of 10 knots as we have a favorable current helping to move us along. As we pass Maple Bay we make a note that this is another location that looks worthy of a visit. It will have to wait until another time though.
The Narrows prove much less challenging than the guidebooks all suggest. While we did not hit them at max current, there was still a good two and half knot of current swirling through this confining canyon.
As we approach Butchart Garden Cove, we keep our fingers crossed that the mooring buoys will be available. Maureen brings Destiny’s bow around the corner and what a sight we see. Not only are the mooring buoys open, there is also a pair of Eagles soaring down through the cove! We pick up the center mooring while Bruce secures Moondance to the one on our starboard. Herb takes up the position on the port side. We are now secure. Once the boats are all secure it is off to the gardens for the afternoon. Maureen and I bum a ride with Bruce and Vicki aboard Moondance’s dinghy. Herb and Willie take Willies Tug’s dinghy in, as they have to transport Jake. Yes, the gardens permit you to bring your dogs along!
The gardens are incredible. It is amazing what the dreams of one person can do. We wander about the gardens for over three hours taking in the incredible sights. As we make our way back to our overnight moorage, we get a great view of our three little ships safe and sound hanging on the moorings. There are numerous “tourist” on the overlook having their pictures taken with our little flotilla in the background. We are going to be in hundreds of people’s vacation pictures and videos. Once we have our picture taken by one of the incredibly friendly associates of the Gardens, it was back to our floating homes and happy hour!
Bruce drops Maureen and I back at Destiny and then proceeded to Moondance to pick up their “contribution” to the evening happy hour and meal. Fresh Salmon Steaks on the grill!
Thursday, June 21st
On to Victoria!
With the weather for Friday calling for strong winds and four to five foot seas, we make the decision to head to Victoria a day early. The cruise is once again just over thirty miles but with a falling tide, we will get a very nice push. Just as we approached Sidney Spit, Herb calls out on the radio that they have spotted Orcas on the port bow! We quickly spy them and get the cameras ready as we get closer.
What an incredible sight to behold! These majestic creatures of the sea, surfacing not more than 200 yards off of our bow! Maureen quickly shoots a number of pictures with her point and shoot camera as I change out the lens on my camera to the telephoto. As soon as I get positioned to start shooting pictures, the whales dive and don’t return…. Oh well, they will forever be burned into our memories!
The remainder of our cruise to Victoria is uneventful as the weather is beautiful with abundant sunshine and blue skies. We cautiously approach the entrance to Victoria Harbor, we dodge whale watching boats, pilot boats, seaplanes, and any other type of floating and flying craft that you can imagine. We had already arranged for moorage at the Causeway Floats putting us right in front of the Empress Hotel. Maureen brings us in as I tend to the fenders and lines. Destiny will be the first to tie to the long pier. Maureen brings her around and so easily backs her down the fairway to our assigned spot. Bruce brings Moondance in next followed by Willies Tug. We no sooner had Herb and Willie tied to the dock when Herb proclaims we should stay two nights (this was prior to him paying for one nights moorage….).
We decide that we will let Fridays weather determine whether we spend one or two nights in Victoria. Once all is secure, it is off to the market and to wander the rest of town. If you have not been to Victoria, I would strongly suggest that you put it on your bucket list. While it is expensive to stay, it is an incredible experience! And what a dramatic change from the night before, tucked away in the quiet solitude of Butchart Garden Cove to being thrown into a major metropolitan city!
Dinner and cocktails were taken at a nearby restaurant this evening. We sit at the large windows watching the traffic on the water below. The large ferry Como comes in from Port Angeles, Seaplanes take off and land, pleasure boats of all sizes come and go. Again, what an incredible place to be!
Friday morning breaks with gusty winds and rain showers. It is quickly decided that we shall spend an additional night right where we are, beautiful Victoria. We spend another day wandering the streets of this incredible city admiring the architecture and very interesting people you see here.
Once we return to Destiny I quickly change out of my wet shoes (what was I thinking when I left and did not put on my waterproof shoes?) After putting on dry socks I head to the wet locker to hang our coats and backpack. Just as I get to the top step, my foot comes out from under me and I land on the left side of my back on the top step. And, if that is not bad enough I slide down and hit the second step. Maureen is in the galley preparing an afternoon snack and quickly comes running. At this point, all I can do is lie on the floor. The wind knocked out of me. Excruciating pain raging through my back. Maureen commanding, move your toes, move your toes. I do so too her and my relief. The pain is still to great to move so I simply lie on the floor. Once I feel I can move while still remaining conscious, I crawl up the steps backwards and lie flat on my back on the salon floor. Maureen continues to look on praying that there is no serious injury. After a few minutes I manage to get up and start moving about. While it is painful, I don’t believe there are any serious injuries.
Saturday, June 23rd
I awaken stiff and sore from my fall yesterday afternoon but it is nothing that cannot be tolerated. Our plan for today is to depart Victoria no later than 7:00 am. This will help to avoid the predicted afternoon winds. At 6:25, everyone is prepared to depart. Herb takes Willies Tug out first followed by Moondance and then Destiny. We slowly make our way out of the harbor enjoying the beautiful view. Large billowy clouds along with sunshine and blue skies. As we make the turn toward the mouth of the Harbor we are greeted with a double rainbow out over the Straits. What a sight to behold. The seas are flat. The winds are calm. What a day to be on the water! As we make our way across Haro Straits, Moondance and Willies Tug take a northerly course while Maureen and I take a more northeasterly course toward the center of San Juan Island. According to the current atlas, we should find a northern current that should give us a push. We also stand a good chance of spotting whales along the shoreline. As we proceed north, a large container ship enters the straits from the south. We move to the eastern edge of northbound shipping lane to give him as much room as he needs and wants…. Moondance falls in behind Destiny while Willies Tug runs to the west of the southbound lanes. As we pass Mosquito Bay, we spot whale spouts at the back of the bay. We head in to check it out. While we never do see the whales, we do make the decision at this time to go through the Mosquito Passage. What a great decision it was! While I had read all of the horror stories of this pass, it was quite easy to negotiate by simply staying within the buoys and markers and following the chart plotter. Just as we exit Roche Harbor, we spy Willies Tug coming in from the west. They had gone the outside route around Henry Island. The flotilla is once again back together. We fight a three-knot current as we make our way east up the San Juan Channel headed for Friday Harbor. Upon our arrival at Friday Harbor, Moondance and Willies Tug are required to tie up to the Customs Dock. Destiny can head around to the backside and secure for the evening. We are not required to tie to the Customs Dock as we have already cleared via our Nexus Cards and cell phone. Once Moondance and Willies Tug clear Customs, they motor around and secure in front of Destiny. We believe we have the best seats in the house as we are secured to the backside of the Customs Dock. This gives us an unobstructed view of Friday Harbor as well as the San Juan Channel. What a great location.
After a quick bite to eat, it is off to town and the market to gather our evening meal. While there was talk of going out to dinner, it is decided that we will simply BBQ on Destiny and enjoy the best view in the Harbor!
We stroll leisurely up the Main Street of town enjoying the many small shops and stores. Once we reach the end of town, we turn and head to the market. We pick up steaks and salad makings for dinner. Bruce, Vicki and I head back to the Marina while Maureen stays up in town to have a manicure! What cruising she does. First day it is a massage, last day a manicure. Is it any wonder she loves cruising?
The three of us no sooner get back, and the sky lets lose with a torrent of rain and wind. The rain falls and the wind blows for a good hour. I figure it is about time for Maureen to be done so I put on my rain pants and water proof shoes, grab the umbrella and head to town to escort Maureen back. As I reach the manicure shop, the rain comes to a stop. Maureen and I head back to the marina making a quick stop at the great little kitchen store to pick up a “boat gift” for Moondance.
On our way down the dock we run into Herb and Willies neighbor from Texas, Capt. Jim of “Wild Blue”. Jim and his wife June are in Friday Harbor for the summer working with the Whale Watching companies. We invite Jim to the boats for happy hour (June is still working). He accepts and tells us he will meet us there after he gets out of his work clothes.
Upon our arrival at Destiny, we are greeted by Herb with a drink in one hand and snacks in the other. Obviously it is time for happy hour!
While I chat with Herb in the Pilothouse, Maureen prepares additional snacks in the galley. While chatting with Herb, I accidently swallow wrong and start coughing. While this in normal circumstances would be no more than an inconvenience, in this case it causes a searing pain in my lower left back where I landed on the step the day before. Never before in my life have I felt pain like this. It hurts to stand, sit, walk, breath, move, or basically do anything. After a while, the pain becomes bearable and life goes on. We enjoy our last night together over a delicious steak dinner prepared by the master chef’s, Bruce, Vicki, Willie, and Maureen. Note, Herb and I are not mentioned as master chefs as we sat in the pilothouse enjoying our beverages and the view.
Since we plan to depart at first light, no later than 5:00 am, we call it an early evening.
Sunday, June 24th, Bound for Seattle
I rise at 4:00 am, as I am unable to sleep due to the pain in my back. The sky is just starting to glow pink as I painfully make my way to the galley to prepare coffee. I can only take a few steps and I have to stop to let the pain ease. I attribute it to muscle stiffness caused by the fall. Once the coffee is ready, Maureen climbs out of bed and takes her position at the helm. Bruce and Vicki are busy preparing for one of their earliest starts, longest one day cruises, first crossing of the Straits of Juan de Fuca, and going through Cattle Pass! All this in one day!
Once all is ready, I release the lines that hold us fast to the dock and Maureen edges Destiny out into the fairway. Once we are clear of Moondance, Vicki releases their lines and they fall in behind. Herb and Willie will depart later in the day for Anacortes.
It is 4:50 am and we are making our trek south. The sky is aglow with streaks of orange and pink. Here and there a layer of fog gently envelops a hill or mountainside. A light breeze just ruffles the waters surface. It is going to be a beautiful day! Maureen takes the helm for the first hour taking us out through Cattle Pass into the Straits. The waters are calm and smooth. Porpoises leap ahead as if to guide us across. We make a turn to the east to allow us to catch the current for a little additional speed at no additional cost. We follow the current around the east side of Smith Island and then turn south along the Western Shore of Whidbey Island. I take the helm while Maureen prepares a breakfast of eggs, ham, and fried potatoes. Food never tastes so good as it does when you are out on the water.
The crossing is uneventful and actually relaxing. The weather remains calm, the current remains favorable. We see very little traffic, pleasure or commercial. It as if, we are just two little boats, on an ocean of our very own.
Once we enter Admiralty Inlet, the current is now on our nose. Our speed drops from eight knots to six knots. As we pass Port Townsend I look back to check the position of Moondance. What a sight I see! About a half-mile behind her, there are whales breaching! I quickly grab the radio to let them know to look behind them. But, it is too late, the whales have moved on.
We continue our cruise south in tandem. The water remains smooth, the wind remains non-existent. Once we reach Shilshole, Bruce calls out goodbye. Moondance will continue on to Elliott Bay, Destiny is bound for the fresh water of Lake Union. As we round the corner at Shilshole we spy that the light for the lock is green! We motor right in, and secure to the wall. Once we are secured, the lock is filled. We rise higher and higher in the lock. Tourist stand on both sides watching as we are raised 17 feet to the level of the lake. Once the lock is filled, the gates open. Maureen nudges Destiny away from the wall and we return to our starting point once again. Destiny has once again returned us safely to our homeport.
Our trip covered a total of 227 Nautical Miles. We were underway for a total of 45.8 hours. We burned 125 gallons of fuel averaging a burn rate of 2.7 gallons per hour. Our average speed was 5 knots (this takes into account all time that the motor was running). Our average moving speed was actually 7 knots. We anchored one night, hung on a mooring ball one night, spent six nights in marinas.
On a side note, I went to the doctor Monday after returning, as the pain in my back had not subsided at all. I was informed that I had cracked one of my lower ribs…. Oh well, what is a vacation without a visit to the doctor’s office afterwards!
