Do all maiden voyages end with a tow?

Wolfboy

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 8, 2018
Messages
75
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Vessel Name
Magic Hour
MMSI Number
338440967
We got Slipaway put in at Seward Harbor in AK on Saturday. She had been sitting for almost 2 years when we finally got her in the water. The engine started just fine. The thrusters had issues (which I mentioned in another post). I cleaned the terminals to the thruster battery and did a few other getting organized and 'learning the system' things. It was on shore power all night. Sunday morning I tried to start the engine and had no luck but quickly realized the problem was that the throttle wasn't perfectly in neutral. (Lesson learned). It was calm with almost no wind so we decided to take her out into the bay and just get used to running her. We drove a couple of hours and ended up in Thumb Cove. We were enjoying the scenery and after about 5 or 10 minutes of idling there, I shut down the engine. After about another 5 or 10 minutes, I went to start the engine and got half a "whirr" and that was it. I tried the parallel switch but that didn't help. The batteries were indicating full charges. I dropped anchor and started the generator with the idea that that might do something and besides at least we wouldn't be draining the house batteries with the radios while I looked things over. I cleaned every battery terminal and lead and added dielectric grease to everything. I put it all back together (I only did one terminal at a time to keep from confusing things.) and tried again, but no luck. I did hear something when I turned the key but it wasn't a series of clicks like you typically hear with a car that doesn't have enough juice, more like just a thump. At that point we called Sea Tow. (Good insurance to have.) We tried jumping it when they arrived but no luck there either, so they towed me back to port. Any idea of what happened or the name of a good mechanic in Seward? Believe it or not I still think I had a good weekend
 
Water on the correct side of the boat and safe at port, yep Great time with boat.

Still working on mine, impeller is last on list, well holding off on fuel filters until I get the boat back in the water and moored in her slip, don't want air lock or other fuel issues during launch from trailer...

Hope to have her in the water by Wednesday.

Good luck with the electrical issues.

Tex
 
I think the lesson is to use boat (in fact any boat) regularly.
 
Wofboy,

It sounds like a very exciting day on Resurrection Bay. I hope you closed the sea cock before you started your tow back to the Seward Boat Harbor to avoid getting salt water into your engine. What year, make/model of boat is this?

I have Seward Heavy Industrial Power at 500 Port Ave, Seward as a VolvoPenta dealer 907-224-3854. I have not used them. Odies Marine in Anchorage at 907-333-0241 is also a VolvoPenta dealer and I have sourced parts through them. I used Storm Chasser Marine in Seward down toward Lowell Point to look after my boat while I was birthed in the harbor but away from my boat last summer. They were helpful and reasonably priced.

Good luck it getting it sorted.
Bob Allan
2016 R-27C
Annie M
 
It's a 2008 R25 with a 110hp Yanmar engine. I didn't close the sea cock until I got back to port. I hope I didn't create any more issues there.

We have calls in to Seward Heavy Industrial and Storm Chasers. I've heard good things about both companies but Storm Chasers are booking work for 6 weeks from now. Hopefully they can take a quick look at it at least.
 
Tim, before you spend a lot of money on a mechanic you might want to check the ground on the engine. That what your symptoms sound like and it is one of the most common electrical problems afloat. The starter just grounds to the engine so if the engine doesn't have a good ground it's no bueno.
 
Also have you inspected/cleaned the main buss connections? If your boat is set up like mine the ground buss is right under the seam on the lazarette hatch and tends to get dripped on from time to time. If the cover is in place on the buss it protects it somewhat but not completely. I put enough silicone grease on the buss connections that it takes more than a few drops to be a problem.
 
Thanks Dan. I took a file to all the leads coming off the battery terminals and greased them but I didn't do anything with the bus ends. I inspected the busses that were easy to get to but that was as far as I got. I wish Seward was closer so I could just run out there after work. I have a feeling its a poor connection somewhere but since I'm so new at this I don't want to jump to any conclusions.
 
Boy-0-Boy
I have a brand new Ranger 27 with a outboard Yamaha 300. Runs like a champ HOWEVER doesn't mean no bugs no problems. Welcome to the boating world. You buy a new car really no problems Buy a new boat BUGS.


They try there best but every one doesn't need a boat.However they need a car.
QUALITY CONTROL WITH ANY BOAT COMPANY. They just want to push there boat out the door and meet there QUOTA.
I really enjoy my Ranger 27 the support is 100% they will go the extra miles, REALLY but its not a car its a BOAT.

Jim
 
Two years is a long time for batteries to sit unused. I would replace the starter battery at a minimum. even if it is not the issue it will be in the near future and by replacing you have a baseline to know it is good. Finish checking all the connections positive and negative that relate to engine and starter. I have had car batteries test good at the auto parts but not hold a charge overnight. I believe they had an internal short.

I imagine kill switch is ok??
 
Wolfboy":2gra7man said:
... I took a file to all the leads coming off the battery terminals...
A small roll of 120 grit emery cloth is handy to have on board. Easy to stow, is impervious to water, and makes quick work of cleaning up lugs, spade connections, etc. Pick it up at one of the big box stores or order from Amazon.
 
Wolfboy if you purchased the boat in Seward that was listed on this site, did you have it surveyed? I noticed in the ad it said “Low hours on 2007 (507 when we dry docked Chaya in Seward, AK) last September. Interior in excellent shape. Following a lightning storm refrig was replaced two years ago; Wallas stove/cooktop reworked at factory same issue.”
If it was directly or even indirectly zapped by lightning you may be seeing different issues than just your “normal” corrosion. If it’s the same boat I’d definitely mention the possible lightening strike to anyone working on the boat.
 
not all end in a tow....most don't.
....some can end up even worse.... Titanic comes to mind. 😱

Count your blessings, learn from your mistakes, eat your dessert first, buy only quality rode, booze, and insurance.
 
It’s not Chaya. She’s still here in town. Slipaway is from anchorage and had just 100 hours when we got her despite being a 2008. The original owners had her indoors during the winter so she’s pretty gently used.
 
Yanmar's of that generation have a grounding strap from the engine to a grounding terminal with green wires leading to it. The braided strap will corrode and you won't see it unless you wiggle the strap. Mine basically came off in my hand. Take a battery cable and touch it to the engine on a bare spot and then to ground and then try to start it. I couldn't find a replacement strap with the right openings for the bolt, so I just replaced it with a heavy gauge battery cable.

My strap was at the rear of the engine, port side, and bolted where the transmission meets the engine.

Once your Yanmar is running it doesn't require any electricity and will literally run until the fuel is gone. It makes sense that the strap may have corroded and caused a bad connection. Running it a few hours and the strap could have almost fully separated due to the vibration.

My other thought is water in the cylinders, but you said you were running on a calm day so I think that is less likely unless you had a bad head gasket, but then you'd usually have a lot of other symptoms. I'd double check that that the exhaust is not blocked at the exit (boat exterior), just in case. If you think it is water in the cylinders, you can crack open the injectors, put a towel over them, and try to crank the engine. The water will be forced out around the injectors, allowing the engine to turn over. You'll need to diagnose what caused the water to enter the cylinders too begin with. If you address it quickly, there is usually no problem with rust/corrosion, but changing the oil would be a good idea.
 
I checked the grounding strap and cleaned up everything. I tried using jumper cables straight to the block but no help. I haven’t pulled the injectors to look for water but that’s on tomorrow’s list. I found the neutral safety switch on the shifter handle and it seems to work but I haven’t traced that to the engine yet. I have voltage to the starter but because of how well it’s hidden I can’t check the selinoid. I’ve checked and cleaned the terminals and the busses. Still nothing other than a single click when I turn the key.
 
Have you load tested your batteries? Even if voltage shows a full charge they may not have the amps to crank. Also maybe your thruster problem m. Solinoid gets wonkie with low voltage. Bad battery can show good voltage but under load it drops way down.
 
Not familiar with your engine or access but if you have access to the starter I would pull it and confirm that the starter and solenoid are working. If you are hearing a click at the starter during an attempted start you could rule out a starter or battery problem by testing it on the bench with a known good battery. Hope you sort it out soon.
 
I swapped out the batteries but still nothing more than a click. I pulled the injectors and could move the engine by hand so at least I know it hasn't seized up and that there's no water in the cylinders. Getting to the starter on these things is dam near impossible for me so it's time to call a real mechanic unless someone knows the trick to pulling the starter on a R25 with a Mase Generator. What little space there is on the port side is blocked by the generator exhaust.
 
So I've checked all the connections and cleaned them. I've tried jumper cables to get around the grounding strap. I've replaced batteries. I pulled the injectors and was able to move the motor by hand. Even with the injectors disconnected all I get is a click when I try to start it. I've checked the neutral safety switch, and there's definitely no 'click' when that's engaged so I don't think there's an open in those wires. I've even tried tapping on the starter with a hammer. So now I'm down to the starter itself. I'm not comfortable trying to jump the solenoid when I can't see what the connectors. Getting access to it is near impossible, but I think I can do it if I pull the exhaust hoses from the motor and generator. Am I opening a can of worms here or is this the best solution? I called 2 different mechanics in Seward and they both said they'd take a look at it when they have time but they are so busy I don't know if it will happen before the weekend and IF I can fix it myself, I'd rather not depend on them before I burn up too much of a short summer.
 
Back
Top