Does anyone tow with weight distribution bars?

tkaustin

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2014
Messages
56
Fluid Motion Model
C-26
Hull Identification Number
2501B010
Vessel Name
coming soon to a stern
Will a weight distribution hitch work on an EZ Loader trailer? This is for a 25SC. My present hitch calls for WD on trailers over 4000. Maybe a different hitch wouldn't require that.

Thanks.
 
That's an interesting question. I've seen some awefully big boats being towed over the years and can't recall having ever seen a boat trailer with a distribution hitch set up.
 
I have seen it done with electric over hydraulic brakes. With regular surge brakes, I believe you run into issues with the distribution mechanism adversely effecting the surge mechanism, but that may depend on the particular application.
 
As far as I know you can't use a weight distribution with surge brakes. My opinion is go for the proper hitch for the job.
 
Learning more. I agree. I'll be upgrading from class 3 to class 4.
 
We have a 25sc and use a class V hitch...and it is about perfect. Not sure I would go with any less, if possible.
 
Even if a hitch is a class V, it would be wise to check the total loaded trailer weight, tongue weight and capacity rating of the specific hitch.

there should be a sticker similar to this on every hitch out there:

hitchwt.jpg
 
Weight distributing hitches are the old 'solution' to the problem of not having enough towing vehicle.
They creak and groan and snap in the turns, etc.
They stress the trailer frame and the vehicle frame.
They are/were more problem than solution.
Friends don't let friends .. .. .. etc.
 
You should not use weight distribution hitches with a regular surge brake coupler that moves in and out when the tow vehicle stops and restarts . The pressure from the torsion bars , bind up the slide system in the coupler . If you have the newer style , electric over hydraulic brake system , you could use weight distribution , but you need to add a pole tongue adapter to the tongue . This bar bolts on , cross ways , so the torsion bars can clamp to a support structure , out on angles from the hitch ball . Weight distribution is really designed for a ''A'' frame trailer tongue , not a straight tongue . You can buy hi end kits that have sway control built into the design of the bars , and better load bar clamps . If they rate the hitch at only 4000 lbs without weight distribution , it must be a light hitch or the tow vehicle is on the light side , which they would use a lighter rated hitch . This happens with short wheel base , sport utility vehicles . When i was in the business , i always said " if you think a 1/2 ton will do , buy a 3/4 ton , if you think a 3/4 ton will do , buy a 1 ton . The longer the wheelbase the better , and buy the highest weight rated , tire you can for your towing vehicle .
 
I have an R-25 classic and tow with a Ford F-250 diesel. I had a problem with the rear end "squatting" when the boat/trailer was attached to the tow vehicle. I added a set of Air Lift air springs to the rear wheels and it made a huge difference. I didn't get the "squat", or opposing drivers flashing their bright lights at me because my headlights looked like bright lights. I also tow a 34' Airstream but use a load distributing hitch with sway control and it works great with or without the airbags inflated. I agree, the load distributing hitches just aren't made for boat trailers, but there are other options.
 
Do a Google search on "load distributing hitch boat trailer," and you will find other discussions, solutions, and images. A friend of ours has a TC255 TomCat and put a T-fitting on the boat trailer to use with a load distributing hitch.
 
Before spending any money, I would recommend that you check your vehicle's owner's manual to see what it states in regard to towing. Others have made some good comments about WD hitches. There are not all that common on boat trailers, but it can be done.
 
I know this is an old thread, but I am new here and this is an issue that I am learning about.

I have a Ram 3500 single with a class 5 hitch and am looking at 31 CBs. It all sounds good until I add a camper to my truck. Now I have to extend the hitch out 36 inches, which reduces the towing load to 6000lbs, without a WD hitch. I am contacting both EZ loader and the hitch manufacturer, as the dealers I am dealing with are giving me a lot of misinformation, and I don't want to take any chances.

I don't know that I can convince my wife to "boater-home". This is especially true as we will be towing through NM and AZ during the summer and a boat air-conditioner won't work out of the water. The camper will be our road home, with genset and AC, but I don't know if it will handle the load. We are looking at maxing out the weight and towing limits. I am being pessimistic about weights, over estimating and planning for the worst case scenario.
 
You could get rid of your camper Buy a Honda 2000 generator and get what is called a carry on air conditioner It fits in the hatchs on the roof It will work off the Honda .. I don't think you will find any way to to that weight with a 3 ft extension .
I put a plastic container the same size as the sink to catch the sink water so it doesn't go overboard . Then just dump it in the toilet.. Not perfect but a lot better then sleeping in a tent..
Good luck
 
I agree with Irish Mist. I think you are trying to accomplish too much. I would try the hatch air conditioner before you leave to make sure it will work for you.
 
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