Domestic water component identity

G

GaylesFaerie

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2020
Messages
579
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2701D112
Vessel Name
Gayles Faerie
Does anyone know what this component is on the outflow from my domestic water pump?

https://share.icloud.com/photos/03fxesnAzi9q5bulqe4EFkQVw

It looks like I need to replace my water heater in my 2012 R27. It is 10 years old and leaking fluid and is also pretty rusted at the corners of the cover on the floor.

As others have mentioned, it appears I’ll have to remove the water pump, battery, charger, and inverter to get the heater out. I may replace the pump as well, but I am unsure what that fitting is on the output. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Gary
 
My R27 is only a few serial numbers from yours and it does not have that component. It is likely that it was not a factory installation, but added by a previous owner. This is only a guess, but the plug on top may permit installation of a fitting to which compressed air can be applied to blow out water lines during winterization.

It will be interesting when you figure out its purpose.
 
Looks to me like a check valve.

CJ
 
definitely does not look like it's factory. Looks like a check valve, fitting for clearing the lines, pressure reducer, something along those lines, no pun intended... I'd probably remove it and maybe streamline some of those lines.
 
This is right in my wheelhouse (pun intended), and although initially I believed this to be a check valve, once I zoomed in, it looks more like an inline strainer. Most inline strainers have the hex cap on an angle (like a "y"), but I've seen them like this also.

The hex cap on top unscrews, and attached is a s/s mesh strainer. However, getting that unscrewed would be almost impossible without removing it completely and putting it in a vise.

There is still a small possibility that it's a check valve (since there are so many manufacturers overseas, and they all look vastly different), but I think that unlikely due to the lack of an obvious through-screw for a fulcrum. This may be on the back side, not visible in the picture. There are two types of check valves: Spring, and Swing. Spring-type look like 'pregnant couplings' and have no cap to unscrew. Swing (which this could be) have a screw running perpendicular to the pipe upon which the swing gate pivots.

TMI? Yeah, I'm a plumbing nerd... :mrgreen:
 
I have two, but not in the domestic water. They were installed to allow winterizing by removing the plug and replacing with a pipe thread to hose thread adapter, which is zip-tied close by. If you open the the Tee plug and find nothing inside, I would guess a winterizing connection. since mine are on raw water lines I am sure they are for winterizing or fresh water flushing.
 
Agreed- check valve. If you can get at them, you might want to check the hose clamps on the heater hose loops first. What you described is what I had in our R25sc 2012 and turned out to be just loose clamps and soaked the insulation with coolant and dripped out the housing.


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Thanks everyone. A followup question: If its a check valve, why is one needed? I would think that once you close a faucet, you'll have nothing but water from the faucet valve all the way back to the pump, so how would the water flow back to the pump? Wouldn't it try to create a vacuum at the faucet end and prevent any water movement? And there just doesn't seem like enough static head height on the lines to create enough pressure to move water back into the pump and then back into the water tank - that's a lot of water to move.

I do believe the pump is a self priming diaphragm pump. Might that let water pass back into the pump and into the tank?

Note: my hydrodynamics knowledge is really low.
 
I really do not think it is needed. Usually on a domestic water system a check valve is installed to prevent dirty water from flowing back into the potable water, There is a remote chance that if you were to have your sink filled with dirty water, left your faucet head in the sink, had the water pump off, and the faucet turned on then the water could be siphoned back into the tank. That is why the sink faucet has one in it and has been a common issue getting clogged with residual construction shavings from the tank.
 
Well, if I can do without it, game on! Its not often get a chance to simplify something on these boats! You know its kinda a love hate relationship - big boat features in a small package. #;-)
 
When you remove it, let us know if it was indeed a check valve.
 
I believe the real reason for this check valve is to prevent back flow into the tank when you are connected to city water. If plumbed the same as mine the city connects to the cold water line near the galley sink. The pump might prevent the flow back into the holding tank but I wouldn’t depend on it.


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