Dripless shaft seal/coupling

[H28]

I have a RT29 on Lake Michigan, so fresh water.

I've got 40 plus years on Lake Michigan, doing the Great Loop next year. I'm a bit concerned about salt water in the bilge so thinking of converting over to a dripless shaft seal/coupling.

this question is for salt water inboard engine tug nuts:

Am I overthinking it ? Should I convert, or is it no big deal to have a bit of salt water in the bilge?
Other advantages that I'm not considering?

Any advice, comments, etc. would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Dave

 

[SJI Sailor]

What is your concern about salt water? In general it is no big deal, although some folks will fashion a shield to help keep it from being sprayed around when the shaft spins.

The other issue is whether a dripless would even fit; that varies by model.

If you're otherwise OK with the packing you have, I'd personally just keep it and perhaps convert later if/when there is a need to repack or whatever.

 

[gwishon]

We’re on salt water. Not much of an issue. I flush engine with fresh water after each use and allow some overflow into bilge, along with light spraydown. Pumps take care of it. Shield fashioned from a milk jug or other material helps a lot. CorrosionX on motor mounts, etc. Routine care.

 

[GaylesFaerie]

I do the following to keep salt a non-issue inside my engine compartment:

1. Fashioned a piece of plastic sheet to sit over the stuffing box to divert any spray (which I don't get anyway with a properly dripping stuffing box) back down into the bilge.

2. In Spring commissiong, I spray down the whole engine and motor mounts with T-9 Boeshield that keeps everything dry and protected from moisture, salt or fresh.

3. At least 3 times a season I will lightly spray down the engine compartment with fresh water, then flush the bilge with plenty of gallons of fresh water.

So far so good. HTH, Gary

 

[dbsea]

I keep my boat in fresh water but being in Puget Sound I spend probably 80% of my running time in salt. On the C30, the shaft seal / packing is far enough back that it doesn't get too close to the transmission or engine. I don't worry about it much, and there's been very little corrosion or wear.