Dual trumpet horn replacement

Status
Not open for further replies.

Gunner065

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2020
Messages
108
Fluid Motion Model
C-26
Hull Identification Number
FMLR2516B010
Vessel Name
Off Watch
MMSI Number
316018278
After trying our horn numerous times over the past two weeks, nothing a faint sound comes out at the beginning, then nothing. It's a 2010 RT R25 SC.

I checked the wiring and fuses, all is find as it worked before. I cleaned the contacts, as per Ongaro's direction found on their website, and still no sound.

At this point, I believe a complete replacement of the dual trumpet horn is in order. To effect this, does the fake smoke stack/portion extending to underneath the mast, has to be unscrewed and taken off to access the wiring and nuts used to bolt down the horn assembly?

Anyone has an exploded diagram of that area to better visualize the extent of the work to be done?

Any tips/advices?
 
Over a 4 year period of time I ended up replacing the dual horns twice on my R-21EC. I tried to open the horns to clean the contacts but that didn’t work. One of the reasons I think the horns failed was how they’re mounted; not allowing water to drain easily. IMO it’s easier to replace them and adjust the angle down with washers making it easier for water to drain out. The horns on our R-23 already point down making it harder for water to sit inside and damage the horns and so far (knock on wood) they’re still working fine.
 
If you have determined the correct voltage is getting to the horn, then I would splice the wires above the roof channel using the marine shrink type crimp connectors, rather than disturb all that hardware. You can also get the downward angle with a piece of starboard just large enough to shim up the aft end of the horns to promote drainage placed under the rear mount of the horns using longer fasteners properly sealed.
 
Gunner065
I have the same boat as yours. Unless you absolutely have to do not remove the stack. I had to remove mine to run a new GPS cable a few years ago. Every screw on that stack can cause an interior water leak. My horn is the original and I have cleaned the contacts a few times. If I had to replace the horn I would do what the others have recommended.
 
Brian B":okafwv7t said:
Gunner065
I have the same boat as yours. Unless you absolutely have to do not remove the stack. I had to remove mine to run a new GPS cable a few years ago. Every screw on that stack can cause an interior water leak. My horn is the original and I have cleaned the contacts a few times. If I had to replace the horn I would do what the others have recommended.

So we tried to remove the black sticker at the back of the horn, and thus far, using a heat gun, we have been unsuccessful at removing the sticker. Is there a trick to that?

I guess, should I be unable to clean the contacts, I'll change the horns with new ones and make the electrical connections outside of the stack and waterproof the connection as best as I can.
 
I have replaced the horn by doing the disassembly of the pieces to get to the wiring. It is an overly difficult job. Be sure to re-assemble with putting some caulk on the screws. I have had no leaks and a nice sounding horn.
 
Gunner065":1wb1olzw said:
Brian B":1wb1olzw said:
Gunner065
I have the same boat as yours. Unless you absolutely have to do not remove the stack. I had to remove mine to run a new GPS cable a few years ago. Every screw on that stack can cause an interior water leak. My horn is the original and I have cleaned the contacts a few times. If I had to replace the horn I would do what the others have recommended.

So we tried to remove the black sticker at the back of the horn, and thus far, using a heat gun, we have been unsuccessful at removing the sticker. Is there a trick to that?

I guess, should I be unable to clean the contacts, I'll change the horns with new ones and make the electrical connections outside of the stack and waterproof the connection as best as I can.

Hello,

The best way would be to make the connections above the rooftop so you dont need to worry about creating a leak, also if you would like I could email you a .pdf of the horn and how to clean them to see if that helps keep them working. kevinlamont@rangertugs.com.

Thanks,
 
I have a R31 CB, and have used Kevin's recc. of cleaning the horns, and it works.. but more importantly, you need to modify the horn mount so they are definitely pointing down regardless of the boats trim.... use washers, shims, different screws, whatever... I actually ended up with some stainless steel strapping to angle them down... Boom.. Done... never had a problem since !! Pete S.
 
Thanks all, for the recommendations.

I did download the onrago guidelines for cleaning the inside of the horn, however, trying to get the back sticker proved to be more pain in the a.. then anything else. So now, I have a spare set for parts.

I purchased Ongaro's new and improved horn with a draining hole at the bottom, cut the wires above the rooftop, installed quick-disconnect electrical connectors (who knows I might have to remove them in the future), shrink wrapped the connections and voila. Horns work like they were meant to.
 
rpmerrill":1glxyfkm said:
See my update from this AM on my horn posting.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18189&p=120242#p120242
Good luck.
rich

I initially purchased horns on the cheap via amazon, to realize that the mounting holes were spaces further apart than the original ones. With amazon's superb return policy, I got my money back.

I ended purchasing the exact same horn that RT installed in 2010 on the boat, with minor improvement since their original design: a small hole at the bottom of the body to facilitate water drainage.

The install was a breeze and didn't have to take the rooftop apart as the mounting holes of the new horn was exactly spaced as the old one.

Sometime, paying a bit more pays off in saved labor and headaches.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top