Electrical Gremlins on a 2008 R25

Wolfboy

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 8, 2018
Messages
75
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Vessel Name
Magic Hour
MMSI Number
338440967
Season 2 with Slipaway and some of the electrical gremlins continue. Took it out last weekend and on the initial trip from Whittier it seemed that nothing was charging. If I had the chartplotter and autopilot on as well as the fridge and water pump on, I would drop voltage enough that the chartplotter would turn off a few times. I had a temporary fix but turning off the autopilot and other things I didn't need. On day 2 of the trip everything was working fine. Some times it seems that the house batteries charge while running but the engine battery does not. Last short ride I noticed that the voltmeter was jumping all over the place no matter which position I had the switch in, and there didn't seem to be enough power to run the stereo, water pump, fridge and the plotter. This time it was the stereo that would turn off. Also if I'm at the dock and turn on the fridge, water pump, stereo, and all the lights I get a buzz from the instrument panel as if there was a low voltage warning for the engine. That's with the engine off and no key in the ignition. That will happen even when I'm on shore power. I have 2 ACRs instead of an isolater and the batteries are a year old. Sometimes I think it may be an ACR and sometimes I think it may be the alternator, but most often I'm leaning toward a bad connection somewhere. I cleaned all the connections last year at the start of the season and put dielectric grease over a lot of the connections. Any idea on possible culprits?
 
with the voltage jumping around it sounds like loose connections. I would go through all the connections on the batteries, main bus bars, alternator, etcand make they are clean and tight.

the fact that it occurs when on shorepower and alternator suggests not at the charging source but at battery end.
 
*Does the battery charger sufficiently charge all battery banks when on shore power?
*What battery bank is the alternator output going to ? I ask this because some wiring configurations have the alternator output going to the engine battery. Other configurations the alternator output goes to the house battery bank.
*Check the battery bank that the alternator is wired to.
Example : alternator output goes to engine battery (most common). Using a VOA meter check voltage reading at engine battery (battery charger off). Meter should read 12.5 V to 12.7 ( after battery charger has fully charged the batteries)
* Start the engine leave in neutral and bring RPM up to 1000rpm for a few minutes. Now check battery again with the VOA meter. Meter should read above 13V. If it doesn't I would expect the alternator is not charging properly.
* If the meter reads 13V or higher check voltage at each ACR. Attach the black meter lead to the small ground terminal at the ACR and the red meter lead to each of the positive terminals at the ACR. Meter should read 13V or higher and read the same on either terminal. If it does the ACR is functioning properly if the voltage is different at one of the terminals the ACR is not functioning properly. Check that the small ground lead is properly grounded if it is the ACR is not working properly. If the small ground lead is not grounded properly repair connection and the retest the ACR Voltage should be the same on each terminal.
* repeat the same test on the other ACR.

If you completed the test you will have tested the alternator voltage output and the ACR's

Check all battery terminal connections tight and clean, Check all buss terminals tight and clean,


This would be the first test that I would do before checking anything else. Start at the source (batteries) and work outward until you find the" Gremlin".

Good luck
 
Well I replaced the alternator, and cleaned everything up. I decided to just replace the alternator since it was easier than bench testing, load testing, etc. especially since the boat is docked 160 miles from the house. At least I know that that part of the puzzle is fixed and it seemed to work better. I noticed that the 2 charging relays were hooked up incorrectly. The Start isolator lead was going to the on position of the key instead of the start position, so any time the boat was running the relays were being told to stay off. Which explains a lot of the draining battery issues I had and why the previous owner jumped the thruster battery to the house batteries. The Alternator is connected to the house batteries.

The one thing I haven't been able to figure out is why the onboard voltmeter and the chartplotter voltage drops from 12+ volts and jumps around between 10 and 12 volts when I turn the autopilot on. I wouldn't think it would be that much of a drain on the system. Was anyone experienced anything like this? Could it be a poor connection in the autopilot connectors? Is their anything in the mechanical side that I could be lubing or checking to make it run easier? My thinking is that if it's using a lot of juice to keep the boat on course it might be something along those lines.
 
Wolfboy":3qlimfb5 said:
...Is their anything in the mechanical side that I could be lubing or checking to make it run easier? My thinking is that if it's using a lot of juice to keep the boat on course it might be something along those lines.
If there is anything mechanical binding in the system you should also be feeling it in the wheel when steering manually. That said, the rudder does need to be lubricated. There is a zirk fitting on the front of the housing. If you have a holding tank it is a bugger to get at. You have to go in through the access hatch under the aft seat/locker.
 
Thanks Dan. I'll look into that. I didn't grease it this year but I did last year. I'll also have to make sure there's nothing sitting on the lines from the controller and that there are no leaks.
 
I'm still stuck on this issue (or these issues). We took the Slipaway out this weekend and have pretty much given up on using the autopilot because of the voltage drop issues. The voltage jumps around and eventually the chart plotter turns off. We also don't run the refrigerator unless we are moving because we will get a constant buzz from the engine low voltage buzzer. If we shut the engine down but leave the chart plotter on we will get a buzz that seems to time with the click of the sonar transducer. The engine buzzer and the engine should be completely separate from anything that might be drawing current while either underway or with the engine shut down correct? And shouldn't new house batteries be able to handle the load of a running chart plotter, fridge, stereo, etc. at least for a while? So a simpler question; should you be able to see a change in voltage on the on board volt meter when you turn on anything that uses dc current? For example if they are reading 12+ volts on all 3 banks while the engine is running, and you turn on the fridge, is it normal for all 3 banks to drop down to 9 - 10 volts? It doesn't have to be the fridge either, I could get that with the stereo or the navigation lights.
 
I know you installed a new alternator but it sounds like you have the same issue as you did before.
BB marine":2vpi4roi said:
*Does the battery charger sufficiently charge all battery banks when on shore power?
*What battery bank is the alternator output going to ? I ask this because some wiring configurations have the alternator output going to the engine battery. Other configurations the alternator output goes to the house battery bank.
*Check the battery bank that the alternator is wired to.
Example : alternator output goes to engine battery (most common). Using a VOA meter check voltage reading at engine battery (battery charger off). Meter should read 12.5 V to 12.7 ( after battery charger has fully charged the batteries)
* Start the engine leave in neutral and bring RPM up to 1000rpm for a few minutes. Now check battery again with the VOA meter. Meter should read above 13V. If it doesn't I would expect the alternator is not charging properly.
* If the meter reads 13V or higher check voltage at each ACR. Attach the black meter lead to the small ground terminal at the ACR and the red meter lead to each of the positive terminals at the ACR. Meter should read 13V or higher and read the same on either terminal. If it does the ACR is functioning properly if the voltage is different at one of the terminals the ACR is not functioning properly. Check that the small ground lead is properly grounded if it is the ACR is not working properly. If the small ground lead is not grounded properly repair connection and the retest the ACR Voltage should be the same on each terminal.
* repeat the same test on the other ACR.

If you completed the test you will have tested the alternator voltage output and the ACR's

Check all battery terminal connections tight and clean, Check all buss terminals tight and clean,


This would be the first test that I would do before checking anything else. Start at the source (batteries) and work outward until you find the" Gremlin".

Good luck

There is no way of trouble shooting your problem without checking all of the above checks.

Wolfboy":2vpi4roi said:
For example if they are reading 12+ volts on all 3 banks while the engine is running, and you turn on the fridge, is it normal for all 3 banks to drop down to 9 - 10 volts? It doesn't have to be the fridge either, I could get that with the stereo or the navigation lights.

Answer = no With the engine running with batteries at 12+ volts the alternator output should be 13 V to 14.4V. After running for a short period of time. Once the battery that is connected to the alternator output. Normally it is the engine battery but some boats have the house battery connected to the alternator for first to charge and then ACR closes and charges the engine and thruster. Do you know which battery bank is directly connected to the alternator?

Wolfboy":2vpi4roi said:
We also don't run the refrigerator unless we are moving because we will get a constant buzz from the engine low voltage buzzer.
The engine battery has nothing to do with the refrigerator unless the engine battery is wired to the house bank.

The symptoms you are describing point to no alternator output. I think you need to have a ABYC certified electrician look at the wiring and find out what is incorrectly wired. Or go through the bullet points listed above and post answers to them. Start at the batteries and work to the alternator. A new alternator that has no connection for output is now a bad alternator. You must confirm output from the alternator to a battery. Good luck.
 
I too have a R25 2008, it has the Yanmar 110 so is analog, no voltage readouts on plotter. However, i have been chasing the electrical system for a year although you have had more serious consequences. Not sure if it helps but i have a depth sounder with voltage readout - when the auto pilot pumps, or the electric toilet flushes there is a clear voltage drop, sometimes very significant.

This does not usually show up on the analog voltmeter below the helm (switched to house). Basically any electrical component that is switched from the helm position draws its current from a single source, a wire that runs from the house master switch in the cave up to the fuses and switches behind and beside the helm station. A significant draw on anything there causes a voltage drop on anything else drawing on the same single circuit. I have made gradual improvements by checking/cleaning/tightening all the connections in a chain back to the battery. These include the fuses and switches (and bus on the switch bank) at the helm, the connnections at the back of the master switch, the house circuit breaker in the engine bay sort of behind the master switch and quite a few connections on a bus block - very poorly located on my boat underneath the generator waterlock. Thats a lot of potential voltage drop across all those joints. Its worth noting that the analog volt meter beside the helm is wired direct from the positive bus - so doesnt follow the same path. I have found it to be very accurate comparing with multimeter readings direct from batteries.

Frankly in this era of tug i find the wiring setup pretty poor - a mess of unmarked inline fuses and unmarked wiring in and around the battery compartment. The wiring diagrams in the owners manual are helpful but not entirely accurate.

ACRs are a likely source of trouble - bear in mind that they do not instantly switch over when one bank has a higher voltage because its getting a charge; there is a delay. But when i start the engine the analog voltmeter immediately shows 13 - 14v to the house bank and a minute or two later you can see as you switch it back between the banks that the ACRs have kicked in and all three banks are showing increased voltage. ON my boat this shows that the alternator output is going to house with the ACRs being required to send it to engine and thruster banks. Yours may have alternator output going to engine bank. But close observation just using the analog meter can be illuminating.

Hope this helps

Chris
 
I re-read all of your posts on this issue. One thing you haven't mentioned (or I missed) is any voltage testing directly at the batteries. Have you put a handheld voltmeter directly on the battery terminals when you're having any of these issues?

If I was a betting man I'd put my money on a bad ground connection. As Chris pointed out in his last post all of the instruments, fridge, stereo, wipers, etc, are powered from the single circuit that runs to the dash/12V breaker panel. Also, and this is important, the analog volt meter for all three banks are wired directly to the positive terminals of the batteries(or the buss) but they all share a common ground which is the ground buss behind the 12V breaker panel. If the master ground to the breaker buss has a bad connection you could see the symptoms that you describe. If your boat is wired like mine the ground buss on the breaker panel is a real bugger to get to. Plus you have to have a 90 degree head driver to tighten it. Very plausible that if anyone has worked on it in the past they did not get it tightened properly. Because we KNOW it was right when it came from the factory :roll:

Regarding the engine seeing low voltage, it depends on which battery your panel/ecm are wired to. Keep in mind that the starter is wired direct to the starting battery. The engine panel/ecm is most likely wired to one of the other banks. Not sure how the Yanmar is set up but if the switch panel takes its power from the same circuit as the 12V breaker panel then you would see the symptoms that you describe(i.e. panel alarming when low voltage is indicated on house bank).

What you are describing with voltage jumping around dramatically and large voltage drop indicated when small loads are applied is strongly suggestive of a ground problem.

If your boat was closer I'd come give you a hand. Unfortunately too much going on in life right now for a round trip to Seward.
 
Thanks for talking through this with me.
The battery charger does a good job of charging the batteries on shore power or with the generator running. The alternator is connected to the house battery buss. I went through your checklist at the dock when I originally replaced the alternator. The alternator output to the house batteries at dockside with the engine on was over 14 volts. I have 2 ACR’s. The first relay has the A terminal connected to the house battery buss and the B terminal connected to the thruster battery bus. The second ACR has the A terminal connected to the thruster battery buss and the B terminal connected to the engine battery buss. As I mentioned I discovered that the start isolation lead was connected to a 12-volt source that was on whenever the key was in the on position. I disconnected that as the Blue Sea instructions say that you don’t need to have a lead going to the start isolator. When I started the engine, I was getting good voltage from the alternator. After about 3 minutes the first charging relay would combine the house and thrusters, and about 3 minutes after that the second relay would combine the thruster and engine batteries. Both relays have a 12-volt connection from the house to the remote LED tab, but there is not an LED in that line (which I think is a mistake). Given the way everything was working dockside I thought I had solved the issue between replacing the alternator and disconnecting the start isolator wiring. Once we got underway it appeared that I had not fixed anything.

It seems to me I have 2 separate issues. First, it’s as if the charging relays stay combined all the time which might explain the low voltage buzz when the engine is off and I get the sonar click buzz, or if we use the faucet and the water pump turns on, there is a corresponding buzz that lasts the same time that the water pump runs. As far as I can tell from the ACR paperwork the charging relays will stay combined until the voltage drops below 12.5v for 30 seconds. The way that they are currently connected that would mean that the engine battery has to be below 12.5v before the ACR2 disconnected and then the thruster would disconnect once that battery drops below 12.5v. One of my next tests when I get back to the boat is that once I ensure that I’m getting the buzz from the water pump or whatever I turn on, I’ll disconnect the ACR from the engine battery and see if the warning buzz goes away. The second issue is with the voltage drop that I see when I engage the autopilot. With topped off batteries and just leaving the harbor I should not have the issues with the voltage jumping around like I do. Even if the alternator was faulty a fresh battery should be able to handle the load otherwise wouldn’t I be blowing fuses?

Yes, I am on the verge of calling in a pro. I was hoping I could do it myself because there aren’t many services available in Seward, and those that are seemed to be booked up for a month or more. I did do electronics for the air force but that was 30 years ago, and boat wiring is new to me. So I’m not completely clueless but I am stumped.
 
Thanks Brian, Chris and Dan. I love the help I get on this forum! I too have a voltage reading on the depth sounder and it bounces around, and even more so when the autopilot is on. I found the maintenance manuals for the Yanmar 110 and have followed the schematics around looking for an elusive connection to the house bank. I'll have to do a little more digging and follow wires from the back side of the panel in the forward birth. I can check the other connections while I'm there. I have been suspecting faulty grounds somewhere along the way but nothing that I've cleaned and tightened so far has helped. I've been thinking that if I could run a jumper from ground point to ground point that might help me determine if there were some bad grounds along the way. For example if I ran a jumper from the ground buss on the 12 volt switch panel to the battery ground that would eliminate the original ground lead between the negative bus and panel, and any connections between. I have checked the voltages at the battery several times, but of course when the relays are combined everything reads the same thing unless you disconnect the battery. From what I remember from electronics 101, it's not a good idea to check voltages to a battery that is still hooked up to a circuit anyway, no?

As frustrating as it is, I actually enjoy chasing these things around. I just wish it wasn't a 3 hour drive to try this or try that.
 
Wolfboy":19p41yxv said:
...With topped off batteries and just leaving the harbor I should not have the issues with the voltage jumping around like I do. Even if the alternator was faulty a fresh battery should be able to handle the load otherwise wouldn’t I be blowing fuses?...
Voltage drop can be the result of 1) supply side problem, 2) overload, 3) ground side problem.

As you said if it was a real load issue you'd be blowing fuses or some other manifestation. Plus load is load. Shouldn't be "jumping around"So not no.2.

The positive side of the analog volt meters connect directly to each battery bank/buss therefore no common source with the electronics or with each other. So not no.1.

Wolfboy":19p41yxv said:
...should you be able to see a change in voltage on the on board volt meter when you turn on anything that uses dc current? For example if they are reading 12+ volts on all 3 banks while the engine is running, and you turn on the fridge, is it normal for all 3 banks to drop down to 9 - 10 volts? It doesn't have to be the fridge either, I could get that with the stereo or the navigation lights.

Consider that to create a real voltage drop as you are describing would take a massive load. On the other hand a very small load can manifest itself as an APPARENT voltage drop if the problem is on the ground side. As I said in my prior post the analog volt meters connect directly to the individual battery busses. So they don't share a common positive side source with any electronics etc. But they all share a common ground which is also the same ground source as your electronics, fridge, etc. That ground is a heavy gauge ground cable connecting to the ground buss on the back of the 12V breaker panel and running aft to the main ground buss in the battery compartment. So if all three analog indications are dropping at the same time and showing the same indication the only logical connection is said ground.

You can easily test taking that out of the equation with 20 feet of no. 10 or 12 wire and a couple of alligator clips. Hook directly to a battery terminal and to the buss bar on back of the 12V breaker panel and fire up your electronics one at a time.

Also when checking terminal connections make sure and check the crimp connection on the cable/wire as well. It's easy to run down a buss bar tightening all of the connections and overlook a problem at the crimp joint. I've grabbed wires to give them a wiggle and had the wire come loose in my hand.

Edit: Sorry to be redundant with your last post. We were apparently typing at the same time 😀
 
Wolfboy":inx68014 said:
I have 2 ACR’s. The first relay has the A terminal connected to the house battery buss and the B terminal connected to the thruster battery bus. The second ACR has the A terminal connected to the thruster battery buss and the B terminal connected to the engine battery buss.

This is wrong. If the alternator input is to the house battery. The house battery must be the common battery to the ACR.The ACR should have A terminal house both ACR's and B thruster B engine.

Wolfboy":inx68014 said:
Both relays have a 12-volt connection from the house to the remote LED tab, but there is not an LED in that line (which I think is a mistake).

If you do not have a remote panel for the ACR and removed the start isolation circuit . The only connections to the ACR's are house battery terminal's to each ACR and thruster battery terminal to ACR(1) engine battery terminal ACR(2) and a 12ga wire (ground) going to the ground bus from each ACR. That is it.

Wolfboy":inx68014 said:
After about 3 minutes the first charging relay would combine the house and thrusters, and about 3 minutes after that the second relay would combine the thruster and engine batteries.
This is because the ACR is wired incorrectly House battery exceeds 13V the ACR's closes but now the thruster battery has to reach 13V and once it does then the engine ACR closes. House battery needs to be the common battery for both ACR's

Wolfboy":inx68014 said:
It seems to me I have 2 separate issues. First, it’s as if the charging relays stay combined all the time which might explain the low voltage buzz when the engine is off and I get the sonar click buzz, or if we use the faucet and the water pump turns on, there is a corresponding buzz that lasts the same time that the water pump runs.

This is not true. What happens is the engine Alternator is charging the house bank first. The house bank must maintain 12.75 V after it reaches 13V for more than 90 seconds.If it goes to or below 12.75 volts for 30 seconds (12.35V for 10 seconds) it will open, now the thruster and engine batteries are disconnected from the house. The only way the engine battery will reconnect is the house battery has to go back up to 13V for 90 seconds and then the thruster battery has to be at 13V for 90 seconds to connect the engine. If your batteries are marginal and you are running everything off the house battery It may not be able to maintain the 12.75V and keep all batteries connected.( you need to change the ACR battery sequence)

My opinion, you need to check how much draw is on your house batteries when you are using all accessories. You need to confirm good batteries. What is the battery capacities amp hr. I'm of the believe the most important accessory on board gets the charge first the engine. I would have alternator output go to the engine battery first. the ACR would have a common connection of the engine (engine to thruster ACR) (Engine to House ACR) There are gremlins for sure in the electrical system . In cases like this jumping around never cures the issue. Start at the batteries and move out. A VOA is you best friend. looking for ground continuities, voltage reading and voltage drops. The system is not that complicated. Who knows what a previous owner as done or changed.
 
Thanks Brian. I've been contemplating re-wiring the ACR's and having the alternator wired to the engine buss but have been reluctant to take that step. Afterall a professional must have wired it before I got the boat so who am I to go around changing things, right? :roll:

I think my course of action for this weekend is to do the re-wiring as you suggest and chase grounds as Dan suggests and see if I can't clear things up. If nothing else I'll learn more about the wiring systems and if I call in a pro after that I should have at least saved a few bucks by taking care of the easy things.
 
The batteries are West Marine Duel purpose AGM 92 amp hours (group 27). I bought them last year after my initial problem of the engine not starting, which turned out to be a bad starter. I was nervous about doing anything other than washing and waxing her when we bought her. A couple more seasons and I should be able to rebuild the boat from the rudder forward. 😉
 
Keep in mind you have "vintage" ACRs. The function of them has changed since our boats were built. You should be able to download a copy of the operating description for the obsolete model for the Blue Seas website. Not sure what all has changed on the newer ones but the old models combine batteries after 30 sec. at 13.6 volts or after 2 minutes at 13.0 volts. Mine always close after 30 seconds. If yours are taking as long as you indicated then either your batteries are way low when you start the engine or your alternator output is pretty darn low. I don't recall if you mentioned what kind of voltage you're seeing on your batteries in the base case. And I just don't have the energy to read it all again... 🙁

Another question/test is whether you see the same behavior in your electrical system when the heaviest loads on board are applied. In other words fire up your electronics before the engine and see how things behave. Will the engine start? Does indicated voltage drop across the board? Same questions when you activate a thruster motor.

BB marine":3paqsy0q said:
...I'm of the believe the most important accessory on board gets the charge first the engine...
That's an interesting risk based design decision on today's complex sytems. What does it mean nowadays to charge the "engine" first?. The historical norm in the marine industry is to charge the rest of the system through the engine starting battery. And when the engine is shut down that is still pretty sound logic. But in the context of where available charge should go first after the engine is running there is a good argument for these modern engines to apply charge to whichever battery powers the ECM. Which may or may not be the same battery that starts the engine. On my boat it's not. Gone are the days that as long as you can get started you can keep running. With these engines not enough battery to power the ECM and it's just a lot of cold metal. So it's a risk management decision how to wire the charging system. I have the engine alternator landed on the ECM bank.

On the other hand I have the kicker outboard alternator cable landed on the house bank. The logic there is that if we're running under kicker power it's likely that the primary engine has already failed for some reason so no need for the starter nor ECM battery. But if we're running under kicker power we still need the electronics functional. In that case keeping the house bank charged becomes the priority.
 
NorthernFocus":1yvto6dd said:
With these engines not enough battery to power the ECM and it's just a lot of cold metal. So it's a risk management decision how to wire the charging system. I have the engine alternator landed on the ECM bank.

Dan I agree 100% that it is a risk as to where the charging system is wired and which 12V circuit and battery the alternator is regulated by. I have always used the engine battery. This battery is designated to power the engine management systems Start circuit ,charge circuit, engine management system ( which includes the ECU). This battery should be isolated from all other 12V distribution panels or circuits. When the engine battery switch is off all engine systems to have no power. To be honest I have never seen a recreational watercraft use one battery start the engine and another battery dedicated to power the ECM , and or engine electrical components. An engine battery is dedicated to power all systems for the engine. The only time another battery would be used is in parallel switch configuration.

NorthernFocus":1yvto6dd said:
That's an interesting risk based design decision on today's complex sytems

The risk is not doing this. Todays complex systems rely on a constant voltage, separate from any other electrical component or circuit on board the boat.Volvo actually uses relays to power accessories. The relays separate the engine battery and engine management systems from accessories needed when the engine is running. These accessories are powered by the house battery but isolated by the relays . Adding ACR's helps isolates the systems if wired properly. I want the engine battery to be used exclusively for engine start and engine management ECM. I would not want to use the house battery for engine management( ECM) or the thruster battery to be the power source of the ECM.

NorthernFocus":1yvto6dd said:
On my boat it's not.

What battery starts your engine (engine battery switch) What battery powers you engine ECM . (Battery switch ECM) How many battery switch's do you have to have on to start your engine? How do you isolate theses two batteries from the other 12V circuits House and Thruster?


NorthernFocus":1yvto6dd said:
Not sure what all has changed on the newer ones but the old models combine batteries after 30 sec. at 13.6 volts or after 2 minutes at 13.0 volts.
This is correct for older units. I assumed wolfboy had newer installed ACR's the original Ranger Tug had a 3 output isolator.

The newer model is 13.6 V 30 seconds 13.0V 90 seconds.

Based on this statement
Wolfboy":1yvto6dd said:
After about 3 minutes the first charging relay would combine the house and thrusters, and about 3 minutes after that the second relay would combine the thruster and engine batteries.
He does have ACR's with older specs.
 
BB marine":1wxjti8p said:
Dan I agree 100% that it is a risk as to where the charging system is wired and which 12V circuit and battery the alternator is regulated by. I have always used the engine battery...
And using the engine battery is the historical norm. But managing risk requires understanding what you (truly)need and answering a lot of "what if?" questions. Consider:

Risk is defined as probability of failure times the resulting consequence. Risk management involves defining an operating context(what's needed), identifying the associated risk(what if), and mitigating the unacceptable risk through design or operational measures.

Recreational boating design tends to ignore the consequence side of the risk equation unless there is a direct threat to human safety (or catastrophic engine failure). And understandably so. If they find themselves dead in the water the vast majority of recreational boaters can simply call for help and anticipate a reasonably timely response. Another aspect of recreational boat design is to almost completely ignore operator intervention as a means of risk management. Again rightly so. The vast majority of recreational boaters aren't equipped to manage complex systems. As demonstrated by much of the discussion in these forums. So there's the operating context for the recreational boat engine and electrical system. It's no big deal if it won't run and don't count on the crew to keep it running.

Unfortunately risk is difficult to quantify in hard numbers. But we should be able to understand our own operating context. And both reality and perception of risk change with that operating context. My entire boating career has been spent 1) operating charter and commercial offshore fishing boats, 2) blue water sailing, and 3) travelling to remote waters in Alaska. So my operating context is different than the previously mentioned vast majority. Honestly those guys should just ignore my posts when they see them. My input in these forums are typically for those who can't/don't want to rely on timely help or who want to proactively manage and/or repair their onboard systems. Of course simply inquiring minds are always welcome.
To be honest I have never seen a recreational watercraft use one battery start the engine and another battery dedicated to power the ECM...
Nor had I until I joined the world of Ranger Tugs. My immediate inclination was to rewire it "properly", i.e. ECM powered by the starting battery. But before I got around to it I had learned a lot more about my modern recreational diesel engine. With that knowledge and my operating context the greater perceived risk on any given day changes depending on how well I slept. IOW it's a toss-up which way is "better". Maybe I should install a (uninterruptible)switch on the ECM power supply so I can change it based on mood.
The risk is not doing this(powering ECM from starting battery)...
There is no THE risk. It's A risk. Based on operating context.

What is the voltage threshold of the ECM before it switches off? What happens(holistically) if it does? What's the reserve capacity of each battery bank? What loads are on each bank? How much direct control does the operator have on said loads? What is the amp load of the ECM? What if I have multiple failed start attempts? What if the alternator fails?

My boat came to me with the ECM wired to the thruster battery. Based on what I've been able to piece together that was due to the early starting problems with the Mercruiser engines. The ECM low voltage threshold was too high and the batteries supplied by Ranger were too small. So during start the voltage dip caused the ECM to shut down. The early fix was to wire the ECM to the thruster bank(which is typically idle during engine start). Mercruiser eventually updated the ECM to a lower threshold. Despite that when I took over ownership of this boat the only way it would start was with the house/engine parallel switch engaged. I installed properly (over)sized starting battery capacity and haven't had any issues since. But by then I decided that powering the ECM from the thruster battery wasn't necessarily a bad thing. Particularly after I moved the alternator cable off of the house bank to the thruster/ECM bank and wired the ACRs correctly. As long as I don't operate the thrusters or windlass without the engine running it's a pretty robust system. All that said next time I replace the starting batteries(with plenty of reserve capacity) I will likely wire ECM and alternator back over there. Maybe....

Based on this statement
Wolfboy":1wxjti8p said:
After about 3 minutes the first charging relay would combine the house and thrusters, and about 3 minutes after that the second relay would combine the thruster and engine batteries.
He does have ACR's with older specs.
If it's truly taking three minutes for each ACR to close that's well beyond the threshold of either generation. So that fact alone doesn't indicate one or the other. Something else must delaying the batteries reaching the ACR threshold which starts the timed switch. So we don't really know when the timer starts and therefore what the delay is.
 
NorthernFocus":2cp4u4r8 said:
My boat came to me with the ECM wired to the thruster battery. Based on what I've been able to piece together that was due to the early starting problems with the Mercruiser engines. The ECM low voltage threshold was too high and the batteries supplied by Ranger were too small. So during start the voltage dip caused the ECM to shut down. The early fix was to wire the ECM to the thruster bank(which is typically idle during engine start). Mercruiser eventually updated the ECM to a lower threshold. Despite that when I took over ownership of this boat the only way it would start was with the house/engine parallel switch engaged. I installed properly (over)sized starting battery capacity and haven't had any issues since. But by then I decided that powering the ECM from the thruster battery wasn't necessarily a bad thing. Particularly after I moved the alternator cable off of the house bank to the thruster/ECM bank and wired the ACRs in parallel rather than series(like wolfboy's boat). As long as I don't operate the thrusters or windlass without the engine running it's a pretty robust system. All that said next time I replace the startng batteries(with plenty of reserve capacity) I will likely wire ECM and alternator back over there. Maybe....

Thanks for the history on the early models. I had a suspicion that that was the case. Isolating the engine ECM from the voltage drop of the starter circuit. Using the thruster battery for engine control module . Honestly that is kind of what I expected was the issue but I don't think many people could explain it as you did. My take on it is Ranger decided to take the easy fix or bandaid. The cost of installing the correct CCA capacity batteries prompted them to just isolate the start circuit from the ECM.It would be interesting to know what the threshold was and why the voltage drop was so great in starting a 2.0 liter diesel car engine. Most if not all electronic common rail diesels have a DC to DC voltage converter that stabilize the voltage supplied during engine cranking. I suppose if a battery's reserve capacity and CCA are marginal even that will cause a voltage drop enough to deplete the threshold and cause the ECM shut down. Seriously that is a design issue. That is more of a risk factor than I would except. That is not a risk a boat manufacture would care about. Bottom line make it work!! Using two battery systems to operate one engine is in most of the marine industry unheard of, but I guess in the Tug world it works. Dan from most of your comments I consider you a smart guy. I enjoy reading your comments and views. You are not going to sell me on this one. Using a house and start battery to start the engine and using the thruster battery to operate the ECM would not be my way of wiring a boat or managing risk management. I want an engine battery bank dedicated to operate all engine functions. This battery bank will not be used for any other function. I want a house battery bank that is used to power all 12V accessories. I want a thruster bank that is fully charged and usable in the event that I need the full capacity of my bow and stern thruster. I have a crossover switch to parallel my house and engine in the event I have a discharged house bank, or a discharged engine bank. I have a crossover switch that will parallel my house bank to my thruster bank in the event that my house battery bank or thruster bank is discharged. (redundancy) Risk management. I also have, but never used a 2000 amp lithium jump starter battery pack. It is rated to jump up to a 6L diesel. I'm not roaming around in the Alaskan wilderness like you are. But anytime I'm on board and cruising in open water I believe in having all my ducks floating in a row! That is my battery risk management.

Dan, I enjoy our debates!! I can't give you this one. Ranger may have wired the boat and put their stamp of approval on it. I have changed a bunch of things that they approved and I think are a bit sketchy. Mostly in electrical, plumbing and mechanical, there are things I don't like structural but I haven't changed them "Can't". :shock:

My advise to wolfboy still stands rewire the battery configuration. Hire a ABYC certified electrician and get the gremlins off of that boat.
 
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