Engine hatch lifter bracket

[it4llc]

When we first got our C28, the bracket for where the hatch lifter arm attaches was starting to come loose. Our dealer repaired it by moving it slightly forward, drilling new holes and using some 5200. However, it's started to come loose again. Fortunately I noticed it before it came out all the way and fell on someone and/or broke something else. I'm not sure how best to fix it more permanently though. My current thought is to bolt it using a backing plate as well. However, the bracket attaches below the "floor" in the port lazarettes. I think I'm going to have to cut a hole in either the one under the cooler station, or the aft port lazarette where the batteries are. Before I start cutting holes, I wanted to check if anyone else has done something like this? Here's a pic of the bracket: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mlvthareolv5bes/AADUFpZCtol4mZu6RNsyiUjba?dl=0. Thanks...

 

[Bosn Mate]

If you can, I would have the Dealer get involved and have them fix it. From the pic, I don't think the repair permanently took care of the issue.

 

[it4llc]

I'm working on that path as well, but so far haven't received much response, but also want to see what other people have done so even if they do it, I have a sense of what path is best...

 

[dcb]

I have the same issue. I don’t have a solution.

 

[shark86]

I have the same issue. I don’t have a solution.

Our bracket tore out completely. I can see where it was screwed in one other time, so the fiberglass in that area is all torn up.

I tried using a piece of Trex decking as a base plate. Drilled the bracket holes and put in T-nuts. Then I used J-B Weld epoxy and stuck it in the right place. Let it set for a couple of days and put it back together today. It failed miserably the first time putting the hatch down. The epoxy did not stick to the Trex at all.

I did not think of 5200. I am out of ideas, so maybe I will give that a try.

 

[scross]

I know this is obvious but I have to ask. It looks like the bracket is being pulled out of the mounting area. That should never happen.
When closing the hatch, you are releasing the switch and stopping movement the second the hatch is even with the surrounding flanges right?
The hatch should never be pulled tight against the flanges, it should be just gently touching the flanges. It does require some attention to get it just right.
If the rod continues to move for an even a second or two past just the hatch being level the rod will continue to contract and rip the mounting bracket out of the hull. If you continue to hold the switch past the hatch just being flush you can rip the mounting bracket out every time - there is no “auto stop” to the rods contraction!