Engine starter

TommyTime

New member
Joined
Sep 21, 2020
Messages
3
Fluid Motion Model
R-21
Hull Identification Number
FMLC2618E112
Hi everyone,
This is my first post on this forum
I have a 2012 cutwater c26 with 330 hours. I came back to my slip after a great day and when I went to restart the motor to flush it with fresh water, all I got was a click. I have a new cranking battery which was installed last month. Voltage meters show plenty of voltage to the starter but the Yanmar display show “low voltage”. I hate to think the starter is gone with on,y 330 hours on the motor.
Has anyone else experienced this issue?

Thanks for all your help!!
 
Try turning all the battery switches on including the Crossover switch. That will tie the battery banks together. If the motor starts then somethings not hooked up right and your new engine battery has discharged or is failing to be recharged.
 
Before condemning the starter or batteries inspect the terminal connections. Check for tight, corrosion free terminals. Inspect terminal cables. Using a VOA meter check voltage at the engine battery, then check voltage at the starter terminal to confirm there isn't a voltage drop from a bad connection or cable. Inspect all grounds. If you use the cross over switch and find that the engine starter engages and starts the engine confirm that the alternator has output and is charging.
 
Everything Brian suggested is the way to go. Unfortunately getting to the starter on the Yanmar is not an easy job, Hopefully it is not a loose or corroded connection there. To get to the starter it requires removing the covers and then the manifold. Removing the manifold is simple, but requires the proper torque when reinstalling. There are a few connections on the way to the starter, not just at the battery. There may be a stud attached to the hull look for that. Also the Yanmar does not like a bad ground. Check the ground wire to the block and at the ground buss.
 
All good info posted. If it turns out to be the starter take it to an automotive electrical repair shop. Keep in mind it’s a BMW starter. It’s cheaper through BMW than Yanmar. A RI tug went that route a few years ago.
 
Brian B":33s6kz7x said:
All good info posted. If it turns out to be the starter take it to an automotive electrical repair shop. Keep in mind it’s a BMW starter. It’s cheaper through BMW than Yanmar. A RI tug went that route a few years ago.

Extremely cost-effective advice, right there!
 
BB marine":1z2nhtxa said:
Before condemning the starter or batteries inspect the terminal connections. Check for tight, corrosion free terminals. Inspect terminal cables. Using a VOA meter check voltage at the engine battery, then check voltage at the starter terminal to confirm there isn't a voltage drop from a bad connection or cable. Inspect all grounds. If you use the cross over switch and find that the engine starter engages and starts the engine confirm that the alternator has output and is charging.

Well......... (haha)

There is nothing wrong with checking that voltage at the starter and then battery. But voltage at the starter will not tell you much other than that and most likely you would have the same reading .

If it was my boat, as the starter is turning/engaged, than I would do a voltage check. If the voltage at the starter is 2+ volts lower, chances are you have a bad connection or a bad cable. Providing that you have a good starting battery to begin with.

In other words? if all is good. when starting you should see 1 to 2.5 volt drop at the battery. Now add a bad cable, that will increase the voltage drop at the starter. so now you might have a 3+ drop in voltage and current goes up. The cable will get hot due to all the resistance within it.
 
iggy":2dd80iu7 said:
Well......... (haha)

There is nothing wrong with checking that voltage at the starter and then battery. But voltage at the starter will not tell you much other than that and most likely you would have the same reading .
iggy":2dd80iu7 said:
In other words? if all is good. when starting you should see 1 to 2.5 volt drop at the battery. Now add a bad cable, that will increase the voltage drop at the starter. so now you might have a 3+ drop in voltage and current goes up. The cable will get hot due to all the resistance within it.

Kind of hard to do your procedure if the starter does not turn it just clicks. Keep it simple do the primary troubleshooting first. Connection checks, visual cable inspections, continuity, voltage checks at different points.
 
BB marine":n7owoc4w said:
iggy":n7owoc4w said:
Well......... (haha)

There is nothing wrong with checking that voltage at the starter and then battery. But voltage at the starter will not tell you much other than that and most likely you would have the same reading .
iggy":n7owoc4w said:
In other words? if all is good. when starting you should see 1 to 2.5 volt drop at the battery. Now add a bad cable, that will increase the voltage drop at the starter. so now you might have a 3+ drop in voltage and current goes up. The cable will get hot due to all the resistance within it.

Kind of hard to do your procedure if the starter does not turn it just clicks. Keep it simple do the primary troubleshooting first. Connection checks, visual cable inspections, continuity, voltage checks at different points.

The clicking could be because its under voltage just like what happens in a car when the battery is dying. Or if a cable is bad causing a larger than normal voltage drop.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSR8srUrq1s This link will show you the voltage drop when the starter is engaged and basically how to test it.

Yes, keep it simple look at the connections and cables first.
 
i would put a min max volt meter on the engine battery. attempt to start the engine and see what volts drops to. its easier than taking the batteries out for a load test.

I had this symptom when my batteries were bad from age.
 
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