Exhaust

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Osbonsky

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Oct 20, 2016
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15
Fluid Motion Model
R-21 EC
Vessel Name
Hop Aboard
A week ago I had Helmuts Marine, a certified Volvo Penta Dealer in San Rafael do the annual maintenance on my 2015 Cutwater 28 Engine. All went well and while there I had them haul the boat clean the bottom and change all Zinks. The condition of the metal around the exhaust exit and the gelcoat near it is rusty and in bad shape and they indicated it wold eventually leak. They also pointed out at least one of the screws was the wrong kind. Please help me to understand why this happens on a boat less than 3 years old? I will send a picture if you send and email. I could not figure out how to add it here. Other than this we love our C28.
 
Hello Osbonsky,

We use stainless steel fasteners/hardware only on all of the boats we build. The screw that appears different is most likely the thru-bolt where the bonding wire is attached to the protect the exhaust fitting. All of the metal components below the water line will either have a zinc attached, or a bonding wire that ties it to the grounding system on the boat. The best way to keep away corrosion is to replace the zincs as often as needed to ensure proper protection of those metal items. I would also verify that the bonding wire is secure on the inside of the fitting to be sure that it's protected. In marina's where the zincs wear faster than normal, I've had a few customers have success with installing a 'grouper' zinc like the one shown in the link below.

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&k...qmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_46hgvhxtqg_e

Thank you,
 
I had mine leak as well on my 2011 R29.. The heads actually rotted off. I removed it completely and re bedded all and installed new bolts. I had no bonding wire on mine.. I guess I need one.. As far as the grouper.. They are pretty but costly.. You can make one with some wire and a square zinc and nuts and bolts.. not as pretty but just as efficient. I actually get used zincs from a refit locally.. still lots of life.. I cleaned them up for proper bonding and drill a couple holes and bolt the wire to it. I actually use the wire from the grouper I had that rotted away .
 
My diver informed me of a missing screw head on the exhaust flange on my 2015 R25SC. (Boat is in ocean water year round.) The inside nuts and sealant are still there with some corrosion appearing. I do not notice a bonding wire but will look closer. Short term: Are the bolts special? Where can i get some? Are they generic SS machine bolts? What size? Is 5200 the right sealant? Longer term: Do i need to replace the flange at my next haul out? Are parts available?
Any other suggestions are welcome.

Ed
 
Thanks very much for sharing you thoughts. My slip is in Sausalito and not the best for sinks so check them often. I'm shipping boat to San Diego for a few months so when hauled I will check it out and probably follow Dale's solution and change it, zink it, bond it and in future have my diver check each time bottom is cleaned. Again, your responses very much appreciated.

Jim Osbon
 
edSB":1xlje6c5 said:
My diver informed me of a missing screw head on the exhaust flange on my 2015 R25SC. (Boat is in ocean water year round.) The inside nuts and sealant are still there with some corrosion appearing. I do not notice a bonding wire but will look closer. Short term: Are the bolts special? Where can i get some? Are they generic SS machine bolts? What size? Is 5200 the right sealant? Longer term: Do i need to replace the flange at my next haul out? Are parts available?
Any other suggestions are welcome.

Ed
Click to expand...
The bolts or machine screws should be marine grade 18-8 or 316 stainless steel fasteners. The best for corrosion resistance is 316 SS. 18-8 are ok for deck fasteners but not at or below waterline. The issue with 18-8 above the water line is it tends to bleed rust stains after being in the elements for a while especially in salt water environments and below the water line they tend to corrode and fail. Normally in boat building what a manufacture uses on the top deck is the same as below because of ease of inventory. I don't know what grade are used by Ranger/Cutwater. The fact that you have rust stains visible and the head corroded off I'm guessing the grade is 18-8. This would be a good question to ask Ranger Tugs. When making repairs or upgrades make sure you are installing 316 SS fasteners. Don't buy fasteners at big box stores you never no what you are getting. Purchase through a marine store or supplier and make sure they are 316 SS. Normally grade it is given in the part description. I don't know exact size machine screw used on your exhaust but assume 10-24 or 1/4-20. If you need a new exhaust thru hull Richard at Ranger parts is very helpful. Also call Marine Hardware I believe they may be the supplier for Fluid Motion. As far as a sealer 5200 is a good sealant but very hard to remove after installation. I watched a technician at the marina remove a thru hull installed with 5200 after hours of effort and some cracked Gel Kote the thru hull came off. I recommend Life caulk below water line sealant. It seals good has good adhesion but can be removed if needed. I have not looked to see if the exhaust thru hull is bonded on our C26 if it isn't it will be.
 
I looked today to see if the exhaust thru hull was bonded. It is hard to see back there so I used my phone camera.


I don't see a bonding wire installed on our C26 . The hose clamp install is not what I would expect to see in a Cutwater. I'm going to install a ground wire and straighten the hose clamps.
 
I hauled out today for bottom paint and to deal with the missing bolt. One bolt head was missing. In the process on removing the exhaust port, two other screws twisted off. Only the top two bolts had any integrity. The exhaust port had pitting and loss of material. I had previously installed a bonding strap. I am rebedding it and using 316 SS hardware. I recommend checking, bonding and replacing bolts if you are in saltwater.

Ed
 
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