EZ Loader Trailer with torsion axle.

[Newf]

I've gone through multiple searches on here and haven't found what I'm looking for so maybe someone can help.

I have a 2014 R21-EC on an EZ-loader trailer with the single torsion axle. I cannot recall how far the spindle end of the torsion bar was from the bottom flange of the Trailer I-beam frame when it was new. The boat sits on the trailer all the time except when I'm fishing. The end of the torsion bar is now within 3/8" to 1/4" of the bottom flange with the boat fully loaded on it so basically almost parallel to the trailer frame.

I was wondering if anyone with the same boat and trailer with easy access to it could have a look and see what theirs looked like. I don't need an exact measurement, just an eyeball estimate. I'm wondering if I'm nearing the end of life for this axle. How can you tell? Is there a way to check? I'm told the cords wear but when the axle fails it just fails. Not where I want to end up.

I've priced out a new one from EZ-loader and it's just over $1500.00 without the hubs and does not include shipping which would be pricey to get to Vancouver Island.

Any help on a measurement or thoughts about the condition of the axle would be appreciated..

Thanks
Newf

 

[Captain Nice]

Morning. 2016 21EC on EZ Loader trailer, approximately 10k towing miles. Mine looks exactly as you describe. We're either both okay or both in trouble :lol: I suspect the former.

Happy Thanksgiving!
CN

 

[ALICE J]

Check where the torsion axle rotates in the square tubing, If you can see rubber protruding more one side than the other sides, it's an indication of wearing rubber. Take it to a trailer dealer, the axle can be replaced. No need to buy a new trailer. I would also take the trailer, boat, and truck to a Certified Scale and have weight checked both for the total weight, then just the trailer and boat weight. Over the years, boats accumulate stuff and the weight can be staggering.

 

[Newf]

Thanks CN. I have heard from another member who has roughly the same measurement as ours,,,a little more clearance than mine but in the ballpark. I have roughly 30,000 kms on the trailer and had a close look at this when I recently replaced the bearing, seals etc. With no load on it the arm hangs about 1"-1-1/4" lower than when loaded. I will keep a close eye on it going forward to see if it changes further and hopefully there's a few more years left in it.

Thanks ALICE J. The side to side rubber seems to be much the same. The trailer is aluminum I-beam and in excellent condition so I would not be considering a new trailer unless I went with a heavier one. The axle itself is rated for 5500LBS according to EZ Loader so it would be just a swap with a new axle if the condition had called for it. Being a single axle, it would be a simple straight forward swap but I didn't want to spend 2K to get a new axle if I didn't need it.

I agree that I should get it weighed and is something that I will be getting done going forward. As you say, we don't realize the weight that we add by tossing in a thing or two every now and again.

Thanks again for your responses. Very much appreciated.
Marcel.

 

[dalee62]

My 2010 R21EC. Fully loaded with water, fuel, provision fo 2 people for a 4 week trip this summer including the trailer was 4980 lbs. if I remember correctly the tongue weight was about 660lbs but I could be wrong . I have never weighed the EZ Loader single axle galvanized trailer by its self. We have a scale at work for weighing the gravel trucks when they leave the pit so it’s easy enough for me to do, I’m just to lazy. If I get my scene together I will report back on the trailer weight.

Dave

 

[Captain Nice]

Marcel, my torsion arms are 2" below the bottom of the I-beam flange when unloaded (axle on jack stands, wheels removed). Trailer weight is 1100#, boat 3200# (full fuel, no water, minimal gear).

CN

 

[BB marine]

If you don't know the original torsion arm angle it is tough to say if the axel is wore out or not. It should not have changed more than 10 degree.

I read your question and this brought back a memory of an issue I was troubleshooting back in the late 80's when torsion axels were starting to be used by trailer manufactures. I worked for a dealer that sold Larson boats. We were selling a popular model 20' runabout and putting single axel trailers under them. After a year the customers were complaining that the tire clearance between the tread and fender was limited and would sometimes touch. The trailers were the correct weight capacity for the boat as delivered but when extra equipment was added, full fuel, the trailers were marginally adequate. This complaint issue was not with all the boat owners of this model and trailer combination but at least half. The axels were Dexter Axels.

This is the way we determined if the axel was bad or over capacity.

Measure the full diameter of the tire (EXAMPLE) 15" TIRE IS 33" DIAMETER

Divide that number by 2. (Example) 33 divided by 2 = 16 1/2"

Measure from the ground to the top of the Axel (Example) distance = 15"

Subtract the Radius of the tire from the distance of top of axel to the ground 16 1/2 - 15" = 1 1/2 " axel is good

The maximum difference is 2 1/2 " or less.

(Example) Measure from the ground to top of the Axel distance = 13".

16 1/2" - 13" = 3 1/2" Axel is wore out or undersized for the trailer total load.

There may be a better way of doing this in 2022 but the is how I checked torsion suspension. I actually have never owned a trailer with torsion suspension. I like the concept and they are the best option when launching in salt water. The trailers that I have owned were leaf spring. If I was purchasing a trailer for my boat I wanted the trailer capacity to support the Total boat weight as equipped + full Fuel+ full water+ the trailer weight + 20 %

Example My C26 weighed approx. 8000 lbs as equipped the trailer was 2300 lbs + fuel and water 1000 lbs + 20% 2260 lbs= 13560 lbs capacity trailer would be the minimum capacity trailer I would purchase for that boat. When I was purchasing the boat the factory trailer that came with the boat was rated 10600 lbs. This trailer worked but was not heavy enough for my comfort zone. The dealer I purchased the boat from sold custom trailers. I ordered a 15000 lbs triple-axel trailer. This trailer may have been slightly heavier than needed but with over 10000 + miles of towing, 6 years No tire issues, brake ,axel, bearing , bunk .....

 

[Newf]

Marcel, my torsion arms are 2" below the bottom of the I-beam flange when unloaded (axle on jack stands, wheels removed). Trailer weight is 1100#, boat 3200# (full fuel, no water, minimal gear).

CN

Thanks CN. The Specs on my trailer tells me it's 1300lbs so I have 3700lbs capacity according to the sticker to get to the GVWR of the trailer. I have a feeling I will be very close and possible over the allowable weight as I carry a fair bit of fishing gear, fuel, water etc etc. I will be attempting to weigh the loaded boat this weekend so will report back if I get it done.


Thanks BB Marine. I have seen that calculation before but have never checked it out on the trailer. I found the article on Boler.ca that references it but it says this calculation is for a torsion bar with a 0 to 10 degree up angle. Depending on the original angle, if its an up or down angle, there could be a big difference but I will do the measurements just out of curiosity.

I agree that a lot of these trailers seem to be boarder line. They may meet the requirements for a "dry" boat but doesn't leave a lot of room for fuel, water, supplies and a bit of redundancy.

Most of this is new to me so a good learning experience. Thanks for everyone's comments.

Marcel

 

[ALICE J]

I would like to add to Brian's experiences but on real-time experience with creeping overloading. My boat the Alice J was acquired in 2015. I thought fenders looked a little light so I added some bracing, the off to Alaska from Florida. I had the fenders welded en route where cracks appeared twice. On reaching Calgary, CA, I replaced the fenders with 3/16 aluminum custom. No issues returning to FL, then up to Canada twice, noticed the fenders were cracking at the formed bends and some of the bracings had enlarged holes I fixed the cracks with enlarged backup plates and closed the holes, and redrilled. That repair lasted for two more long trips. This last trip to coming back from Maine to Florida, big-time problems, the issue with piston caliper failure first on the forward left wheel, then on the rear left caliper. Replace all four wheel rotors and calipers at Norfolk. I had noticed prior to this incident that the trailer appeared to have a bow at the axles, but had leveled the hitch of the truck with the aft end of the trailer according to the dealer. After the replacement of the rotors and hubs, I felt safe. But to double-check I stopped at the trailer manufacture, Float On. The owner, Tim went over the trailer and was concerned about the bowing, I asked about a third axle, he said it was possible to add it to this trailer. BUT during this inspection, I notice that the inside of the rear tire was really worn. A square placed on the tire indicated about a 3/4" wear., either caused by a bent axle or bent spindle. None of the other tires resembled this wear. Tim suggested a weight test. Before my journey to Alaska, I had weight the truck and trailer/boat separately, about 12300 lbs. I figured with my axle rating at 12000lbs I could "sneak by" with the "little extra weight" BUT I had no reserve (Brians 20%) BIG ERROR, those cracked fenders, and the bowing trailer were indicators of impending problems. Very fortunate that no accidents occurred because of overloading. Presently over 40,000 miles on the trailer, now with three axles.

 

[Newf]

I got out to a commercial scale this morning.

Weight of fully loaded boat and trailer 4806 lbs
Tongue weight 463 lbs
Total weight of truck, trailer, boat and me 11,155.

For a 5000 lb GVWR trailer with a 5500 lb axle I'm definitely at the top end with no where close to Brian's 20% reserve. I may have to do some house(boat) cleaning.