Fans for Regrigerator cooling

[tlkenyon]

I have a 2015 R25sc, no A/C. When it is really hot outside, the fridge cannot keep up. I am sure this is because there is almost no airflow in the compartments behind the fridge, and there is no easy way to induce any airflow. While the cabinets under the sink and stove are not sealed, there are no grates or anything to promote any airflow. What airflow does happen is incidental and not very effective.

I am thinking of installing some computer-type fans in the bulkhead beneath the helm chair...one to push air in and one to pull it out. The DC panel is right there, so wiring should be pretty easy, even for me.

Anybody done this? Am I missing something?

THANKS

TK

 

[doke01]

Our boat has been well over 100 degrees and the fridge has always kept up. Not sure what model you have, but ours already has a computer-type fan on the back that pushes air. Perhaps there is an issue with your fridge? Are you sure you have it turned up all of the way? Our's has a knob near the freezer.

 

[CaspersCruiser]

I’m in the same boat, so to speak, and I’ve been thinking about making a similar mod. There is an R27 owner here on Tugnuts that worked in commercial refrigeration for many years. Hopefully he’ll provide input.

 

[rpmerrill]

I think I'm the guy that Casper's Cruiser (Bill) is referring to.
We discussed fans and various possible ventilation ideas.
Ya, computer panel fans (or a fan) might be something to try. Wouldn't necessarily need an IN and an OUT. I think they run on 5 volts, not sure about 12 volts? I'm sure there hundreds of those old computer fans out there that are available for a test run. They are quiet. You wouldn't need some great airflow, Just some sort of circulation.

There is airflow access space through one of my undercounter cabinets. It is possible that another hole would help. Either in the countertop or the wall under the helm seat. In the fridge manual they recommended vent areas for natural ventilation. A total of 120 sq in, 60 in and 60 out. However for forced ventilation it could be smaller holes. (The hole in the back of the undercounter cabinet would qualify for one of the holes. )

All this is interesting discussion but here's the way I look at on my boat.
1.) Is the fridge working? That is, making ice and keeping stuff frozen. (yes)
2.) When at the dock, it is all closed up for days at a time. The boat interior gets up to 110 or more. That is the most difficult duty for the fridge. During this time the fridge is consuming the most amount of electricity. But at the dock the electricity is "free". I don't pay by the kw-hr. Green New Deal be damned.
3.) When the boat is occupied by us, the cabin temperature comes down by at least 30 degrees. And the performance and efficiency improves a lot. The battery load isn't too bad or at least hasn't been a problem for me. I have never measured the temperature behind the cabinets to see if ventilation might help.
4.) I'm doing nothing
5.) P.S. I haven't disregarded the issue of wear and tear on the fridge compressor. It is more difficult to operate in the hot cabin mode. My fridge is 8 plus years old and is is still going strong. Someday I may regret saying that, but at the moment I just "knock on wood" for good luck.

Did I miss anything Bill?
Rich

 

[CAPTCRUNCH]

I think RT used to put a vent opening in the counter top above the back of the fridge. I noticed one years ago in a photo/video. It may have been about the size of a 3 x 5 card and trimmed with teak. I remember wondering why my R27 didn't have that.

 

[rpmerrill]

I have an A/C duct outlet there on my boat.

 

[knotflying]

If I were going to add air flow I would keep it simple. Perhaps a hole at the side of the cabinet at the helm or in the counter top and finish off with a grill. Then another hole at the base below the door or perhaps on the same side of the cabinet, but much lower. Keeping ice build up to a minimum is also very helpful.

 

[2islanders]

We have a 2012 r25sc and the fridge keeps up fine. Nova Kool fridges (ours) have an optional resistor that can be added in the control circuit to slow the compressor to lower the draw on the batteries. Not sure if other brands do the same. It may be worth checking to see if that is the reason for your issue. Their on line manual shows the options.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rpmerrill]

I just went back to the original post.
You say no A/C. Do you have any room for an air outlet at the helm seat in the countertop?

 

[tlkenyon]

Would prefer not to have any openings in the countertop. That would seem to be a great place for any spills to disappear into.
Found some 12V computer fans on Amazon. They are 120 mm diameter and move a lot of air. Probably gonna install a "suck air out" fan and see what happens. It is not a chronic problem, just when it is really hot and the boat needs to be sealed up, as in when trailering. The poor fridge was running continuously and just not keeping up. Internal temp was in the "red zone" for food safety. Now that fall is here it is not an issue. Will be winterizing in 2-3 weeks...bummer.

 

[rpmerrill]

Aha, I didn't think of the trailering with battery power issue.
12 volt fans ... great.
Maybe on a thermostat?

 

[tlkenyon]

The fan will consume less power than the fridge running nearly continuously, so I hope it will prove to be a viable solution...I just now saw if misspelled "Regrigerator" in the OP....I hate it when that happens.... 😳

 

[CaspersCruiser]

Did I miss anything Bill?
Rich

Not a thing.

One issue that will prevent me from creating an additional vent low in the adjacent cabinet to help ventilate the refrigerator space is that’s where I store a lot of provisions. That vent would almost certainly be blocked by what’s stored there.