Favorite brass polish/cleaner?

T

TugScout

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2018
Messages
153
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Nordic Tug NT32-220
Vessel Name
Polaris
For the portholes. I’ve used Brasso for years but wondering if there is something better that offers longer protection.

Thanks,
Mark



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There are other products, each take a lot of work to apply. I took off the outer ring and used a dremel tool with a polishing wheel. Got the ports real good looking. The waxed with a good was. A year later they are back to the real nice looking tan color. I got to like the patina of the aged look. On the 21ec we have 4 ports! If you are interested I used Peek to clean and Colinete wax. Both easy to do, removal to get around the screws.
Good luck!
 
Never-dull cotton wadding is my go to for all metals. Brass, bronze ,silverware, copper clad cookware , chrome , stainless..... It polishes and leaves a haze. Just wipe it off.....great stuff........
 
If the cleaned up brass/metal is covered with a shellac or something similar will that keep the brass lustre looking good for a long time ? I wonder if the same type of application would keep the railing looking pristine, especially where the rails ends are attached to the boat with screw bolts ?
 
Thanks Pilot, I hadn't thought about using a Dremel, but I may give that a try.

Barry, I'd love to find some type of sealer to keep the brass looking nice. I'm going to keep my eyes open for products when I go through the Portland boat show tomorrow.
 
I need to clarify my initial post here. I posted Never Dull as a great choice for cleaning/polishing metals like brass portholes, etc. for salt and fresh exposure.
If you are looking to coat and seal your brass, I do have a good option.
My current 2013 Ranger has brass that looks like new...... I wondered why it still looks so pristine.....well , the search mode on TugNuts answered my question. It seems that the original owner posted ( under Brass portholes) that he cleaned them with acetone....then taped them off...and sprayed with either Rustoleum or Krylon Clear . Well.....the brass looks like new.....BUT....mind you, this is FRESH water. I make no claims for salt. We all know what a mess shellac and varnish on teak is once it starts to break down. The removal and refinish rigor makes one wish they had opted for penetrating oil rather than surface film protection. I assume the same for surface sealants on metals in salt environments.
SO.....if you are fresh water folks , the Acetone/Rustoleum/Krylon Clear may be your answer for a no maintenance porthole.....Saltwater....?????????????????????????????????
 
Years ago in the mid 1950s I was in the Sea Explorers and one of my jobs on our boat was to keep the large air scoops looking good. They were brass and I found that if after cleaning I applied a coat of varnish the scoops would stay looking good for several years. Please don't ask me the type or make of varnish, I don't remember.
 
For cleaning the metals I use Never Dull. For protecting the Metals I use Sharkhide. Sharkhide is a metal protective coating applied to metal after it is cleaned. It is very popular in the Pontoon boat market for preserving the polished aluminum pontoons. It is a fairly easy application and can last for years. I used it on my Pontoon boat and it stayed looking like new. I use it on my aluminum trailer fenders. I have not used it on Stainless no need. I think it would work good on any above the water line metals.
 
Prism polish. Works on everything stainless brass silver/silver plate plexiglass and it does protect longer tha wax alone.
The idea about a shellac coating got me to thinking that this summer I’ll try the Tech shine that I use on the car and on the solar panel. It makes it easier to wash off the droppings and it does not look like a thick shellac or varnish coating.

Stuart
 
Brian....the Sharkhide products are interesting...I am curious if you have used it to rehab faded gelcoat or paint....their website shows it for application on paint. It looks promising.
 
I have not used it on a painted or Gelcoat surface. I used it on my Tri-toon pontoons and aluminum trailer fenders. I have thought about coating the complete trailer but ambition got in the way.This is a picture of the pontoon three years after I applied the coating. The coating is hard and durable. If it does get scratched it can be over coated to repair. If you want to remove the coating use lacquer thinner to remove it. I can vouch for metal coating. If I was to do it on Gel I would pick a small area for a test and measure the results. A good test would be the Eyebrow on your boat if it is faded.

 
@ Brian..The brow on my 2013 Navy Blue is still holding color and gloss....it's had a coat or two of of Colonite #885 each year. I was thinking about areas of fading when numbers and decals were changed..?????
 
Catch22":qvrcyujr said:
@ Brian..The brow on my 2013 Navy Blue is still holding color and gloss....it's had a coat or two of of Colonite #885 each year. I was thinking about areas of fading when numbers and decals were changed..?????
Click to expand...

I'm not sure that would be the answer for that. Sharkhide is a coating. It would be hard to blend it in on a hull in a small area. I believe it would be noticeable. The advantage of Sharkhide is it can be removed. Sharkhide is around $60. and would probably do your complete boat ( I'm not suggesting that). You can try it in the area in question and if it doesn't look good remove it. I can vouch for it as a metal protective coating. I have had good results.
 
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