Fender Rash and 3M Scotchguard paint protection film

Lehill

Active member
Joined
Oct 24, 2014
Messages
32
Fluid Motion Model
C-302 SC
Vessel Name
Summer TALE
Hi all. I am seeing some significant fender rash on the blue hull of our R31. I am thinking of buffing this out and then adding a clear 3M Scotchguard paint protection film in the areas where the fenders hang. The same film that is used on autos. This should protect the hull from abrasion. Has anyone done this? or have an opinion if it will or wont help? Much appreciated.
 
I've not used the 3M product you mention on my boat but it works well on my GMC wheel well exterior to protect against stone chips. We have a red hulled R27 and because of the dark color showing every little scratch and blemish, much like your dark blue hull, I've made it a practice to have the top few inches of my fenders ride against the rub rail thereby keeping the lower part of the fender off of the gelcoat as much as possible. This may or may not work on your R31 unless you have or get longer fenders but it has worked well for our R27.

Jim F
 
I have the same rash. I buffed most out but there are some deep scars. The concrete walls and locks on the Trent Severn are the source of the debris on the fenders. I have spoken with a few loopers on this subject and preventative measures range from fender condoms to wood frames over the fenders that take the brunt of the contact with the concrete surfaces. A few others are using the globe shaped fenders which they recommended - one did have a dark coloured hull. I too have taken to hanging the fender overlapping the rub rail. It reduces contact with the hull, but when you encounter a low wall, you are back to hanging the fenders directly on the hull. The chafing is aggravated because the fender often rolls along the hull, and you never put the fender back down the same way as before. So the grit can be outboard or inboard.Last year I asked Taylor Fenders if they had considered developing a "D" shaped fender that would rest against the hull in the same position every time it was dropped; no response was ever received. I think for the coming year we will clean the fenders more often.
 
I did read somewhere about a clear plastic film that can be applied in the areas that you normally put the fenders. The product is similar to the removable lettering we use for our boat names. Never saw it or have first hand knowledge, but it sounds like a good preventive measure. I have seen something similar on the newer cars where they tend to get dinged by read debris.

PS. Laureen Green hull has its advantages. 😀
 
Good evening boys & girls,
I bring GOOD news, having transid over 150 locks in our lifelong crusing career we found someone MUCH smarter then we are!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! they suggested to ,
Simply go to Wally Word & buy CHEEP tee shirts & slip them over those expensive fender covers, when they wear out just go back to Wally World, problen solved.
Happy Holidays,
Mike & Barb
M/V Elan
Cutwater 26
 
I am not sure if the issue is what is covering the fenders, but rather the effect of the constant rubbing up against the hull. Fender covers have their issues if they get salt or grit on them. The t-shirt idea sounds good, but I am afraid that what I consider a good t-shirt will be considered fender material by my wife :lol: There goes my wardrobe!
 
Hello all,
The issue is abrasion, if the abrasion goes away the problem is solved, wheather the wife likes it is yet another problem for you?
The covers are abresave & the tee shirts are soft whether purchased at Wally World or not .
In closing next time you are in a high rent marina look at the VERY expensive terry covered finders on multi million doller yachts, bet you don's see any abrasion.
The tee shirts are a poor man's sulution, give it a try you will be pleased.
Mike
M/V Elan
Cutwater 26
 
Just to resurrect this question of the 3M film. I did read that someone had installed this about a year ago but I can't find the thread. Does anyone have any experience with the product over time please?
 
I have the 3 M clear film on the front of a 42 foot RV. It does fine for a few years--then begins to degrade. It can be removed, but is difficult. The RV front cap is fiberglass, but painted.

I question how well it would hold up in the marine environment.
 
thataway":26zc8m2h said:
It can be removed, but is difficult.

I work in collision repair and this is certainly true. Rubber wheels can be used on small areas but on larger sections we use heat and pull it off. That's when the fun begins - removing the glue residue! Unless you have applied it before it can be a trick getting it on free of air bubbles. There is a product called "right on" or you can use soapy water. Start at the middle and work the water/bubbles out to the edges with a plastic squeegee. Clean hands very good before starting and avoid handling on glue surface - fingerprints are forever!

Along the lines of the T shirt idea - I know some who use the legs of sweat pants. Turn them inside out - sew up one end - then pull them back over the fender - forget what they do with the other end. Looks not bad and can be used to make an old scratched up fender look new. Can buy them at a used clothing store cheap.

Regards, Rob
 
How about attaching short pieces (2 ft) rubrail rubber pieces horizontally on the hull under neath the cleats and make them look like they are a decorative attachment with 3 dimensional features. I think 3 strips in equal distances might work. This way the fenders rub against them instead of the hull

Just a thought. I am sure there are some side effects that I have not thought off yet.
 
I just installed the 8 mil 3M protection film (6 mil urethane with 2 mil adhesive.... .008 inch total thickness) to the area on my R-25 SC blue hull that gets fender rash. This is not Scotchguard, it is a clear urethane, it was easy to install and I understand that it can be easily removed using a hair drier. I'll let you know how it performs after it has been installed for several months.
 
When I was using the fenders that came with the boat, I covered them with a West Marine product. Scratched the hell out of her dark blue hull.

I now use 15" tuna balls on YOLO. They are covered with a custom fleece product sold by Maine Coast Marine Products. Worth every penny. Not a mark on the hull. Just throw them in the washing machine at the end of season.

http://www.mecoastmarine.com/fender-covers.shtml
 
I talked with the manager of our local chandlers who was the manager of West Marine here for more than 20 years before they closed all their Canadian operations. I asked him about getting me some fender socks and he politely told me that he doesn't sell them. Apart from sand and dirt that gets on them they get soaked in salt water and the salt itself, after drying out, has caused fender rash. He recommended simply keeping fenders clean and applying protectant like 303 to both fender and hull area. He emphasized about not leaving 303 wet on either as that attracts dirt.

My main issue is the tight squeeze of the tug in the boathouse. I can get smaller diameter fenders between rub rail and the walkways at the side so no issue there. Up at the bow the tug is pulled forward by a "super bungee" so that the stern lines are kept taught. (there are bow lines in case the bungee fails). That leaves a couple of inches either side between the hull and the walkway. I have fitted the white fabric style dock protection that says it won't mark a hull but that is bound to pick up dirt and salt as well. Over the winter I have been periodically washing the hull off with Salt Away when I get back in the 'box' and applying 303. So far no scuffing when the tug rocks in the boathouse on windy days but it's a job I have to remember.

I am going to try the 3M - Scotchguard paint protection film up at the bow. I anticipate, 2 pieces 42 inches x 12. I spoke with the 3M technical guy who I contacted through the website. He told me that there had been a study done by 3M but the results had been 'mislaid'. He did say that yellowing would probably come from sunlight, a problem I don't have. Apart from the boathouse it seems to have been raining here for ever!

I'll let you know how this goes with photos when i do the deed.
 
I have PPF on my boat and I love it. It takes care of the problem once and for all. I put some on two years ago and just last week I ripped it off and replaced it with two foot wide stuff verses the one foot wide. And it came off with ease, another concern. No goof off or heating. When I inquired about it on Tugnuts two years ago, no one had tried it so I just forged ahead. One person thought or cautioned that maybe the hull would not fade equally like when you rip off a sticker. I was concerned too, but last week confirmed that’s not a problem. At LEAST not here in fresh water with intermitted salt water and docked under cover for five months and stored over the winter months. Either way it still gets lots of UV light bouncing around. And it’s a red hull.

Application; they recommend using 12 drops of baby shampoo to a pint sprayer bottle of water. I learned that you can NOT have too much water on both the boat and the PPF. It will work out and do your ripples first (the curved lines at water line or near the rub rail). Just make sure you have an overall game plan to work from the center out. You should have a large area in which to cut the film, fortunately my late wife love to sew and I had plenty of cutting surfaces to work on. You will want straight edges and a rolling cutter. One other word on application is to make sure you have a good sticky edge. I had some older film that I had stored and the glue on the edges had dried just a little and didn’t go down as nicely as the first time.

If you make a small mistake it can be carefully removed re-wet and do it again. Ninety percent of the learning curve is in the first sheet applied. Four hands are helpful but not necessary and light to no wind, not excessively hot or cold, 50 to 70 degrees in the shade.

Please look at my pictures in my folder here on Tugnuts. In real life no one sees it unless I point it out and just barely, it’s the edges that you can see, at 10 feet you won't see it. The film will get really fine scratches in it too but wax or Pledge takes it right out.
 
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