First Haulout

Ken W

Active member
Joined
Jul 2, 2019
Messages
35
Fluid Motion Model
C-302 C
Hull Identification Number
FMLT3123D717
Vessel Name
Tough Guy
So, looking at the first haulout of my 2017 R31S and new bottom paint plus whatever. I’ve never done this and would appreciate advice for best bottom paint for the PNW (original from-factory paint brand/type unknown) and how much to buy. Thanks in advance.
 
Ken,
Factory typically does not deliver boat with bottom paint. I would check with the dealer who first sold the boat to find out what was used. If it lasted 3 years with good results I would use your original bottom coat again.
We’ve been using Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote NT for 5 seasons with good results but our boat is only in the water 60-90 days a season. We went with that product because it’s what the prior owner had been using. It’s suppose to be a hard ablative paint that holds up well for trailering and being out of the water for extended periods.
If you keep your R31S on the hard for the winter that could be something you would want to consider in your selection.
 
Seahawk AF33 seems to be pretty standard at the yards I've been to. Had it put on a sailboat in Port Orchard and our R29 Classic in Gig Harbor last year.
 
I believe the factory uses Seahawk AF33 unless they have changed.

Curt
 
Our 2018 R29 was delivered with bottom paint. The check sheet that we were given at orientation had the type of paint that was used noted.
Unfortunately, they did not mention a quantity.

I hope that helps.

Rocky
 
In 2016 I called the factory for bottom paint recommendation. Ronnie Gonzales told me the factory uses SeaHawk AF33 as Curt also stated. If you have had good service from the paint that was applied I would stick to it. It is better to over coat (in like kind products). I just repainted my C26 for the first time.

I painted the bottom in 2016 with 3 barrier coats and 2 anti fouling ( Pettit Vivid). The barrier coats are optional and only done at first bottom paint application or after a soda blast. I used 1 gallon of paint for two coats of paint.I would estimate a minimum of 1.5 gallons for the R31. The Vivid is applied very thin for a smooth finish. I believe this would be true with the AF33. I use a 3/16 Nap foam roller that is solvent resistant. 9" for major areas, 3" for prop tunnel, transom, and strakes. 1" for thruster tunnel and all the small hard to get area's and a 1.5" brush. I recommend using a paint thinner that the paint manufacture specifies for the bottom paint you are using. I thin a quart at a time.It will roll on smoother and easier if thinned. Hull preparation is key to longevity of the paint and reduces build-up of old pant. After the bottom is pressure washed thoroughly and dried I sand the complete bottom using a orbital DA sander. 80 grit paper, scuffing the bottom to get good paint adhesion. After a complete sanding I wash the bottom with soap and water lightly to remove any sanding dust. let dry, apply the first coat. Paint hard to get areas first then strakes, complete using the 9" roller. I give 24 hour dry time before second coat. All water line areas to chine I will three coat them.

The sanding process is a messy job. I did it in a storage building with boats very close by. To eliminate bottom paint dust which gets everywhere when sanding I set up a inexpensive vac system.

Inexpensive sander with hose attachment very light but it did a good job scuffing the bottom I used 80 grit paper
https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boscht ... k-29195-p/

I mounted this on a 5 gallon pail with a lid. I attached my wet vac to the cyclone. The 5 gallon pail was 1/4 full of dust after sanding the bottom. There was little carry over dust to the wet vac bag filter. The fine dust will damage wet vac motor bearings similar to dry wall dust.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XL ... UTF8&psc=1

This hose attached to the cyclone and to the sander. I wore a mask and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OB ... UTF8&psc=1. The white coveralls. The dust on the suit ,the ground and boats around me was minimal to nothing. I had $120.00 invested in the setup and it was well worth it.

I paint all metal hardware that is in the water. Thru hulls, thruster housings, rudder, trim tabs, swim platform support brackets, keel shoe. All are primed with metal primer as a barrier coat and then painted with anti fouling. If you paint the engine, generator and air unit thru hulls make sure that there is no build-up of paint that can obstruct the water flow the pick-ups are marginal at best so any reduction in flow area may reduce cooling.

Good Luck with your haul out.
 
Great resources here, easy search to find out our 2013 R31CB probably has Seahawk AF33 from the factory on it. Will the folks at Ranger have that info in the records to confirm?
 
You should find out who the dealer was. The factory generally doesn’t bottom paint the boats.

I did 2 coats of petit vivid red and it’s gone after two years. Bit disappointed that I could get a third season.

I’m in the PNW.

How many seasons are folks getting from the seahawk af33 paint?
 
We bought our R-31CB from the factory three years ago. Bottom paint was an option which was negotiated into the deal at purchase. It was bottom painted at CSR Marine in Des Moines (south of Seattle) with Seahawk AF33. After three years we just recently had it hauled out and bottom painted at the same place, CSR Marine. I got the impression it was slightly overdue. We keep our boat in fresh water (Lake Washington) but have spent an average of 3-4 months each year cruising in salt water.

For recoating this time, CSR recommended two coats, which I agreed to, and they used 2 gallons of Seahawk AF33 to accomplish that. They said the bottom paint should last “two to three years” before needing to be redone. I’m actually not sure how to tell when it needs to be redone, especially since we keep our boat year round in the water. We do have a diving service change the zincs and clean the bottom periodically.

John
 
I’m actually not sure how to tell when it needs to be redone, especially since we keep our boat year round in the water. We do have a diving service change the zincs and clean the bottom periodically.
John,
Most bottom paints are ablative, when you start seeing your barrier coat (white?) through the bottom paint it's time to re-paint.
 
SgtAlf":3ajo51mj said:
I’m actually not sure how to tell when it needs to be redone, especially since we keep our boat year round in the water. We do have a diving service change the zincs and clean the bottom periodically.
John,
Most bottom paints are ablative, when you start seeing your barrier coat (white?) through the bottom paint it's time to re-paint.
Thanks, Tony! Normally I don’t have a view of the underside. I should probably mount a waterproof GoPro on a stick and inspect it periodically.

John
 
I used Micron ablative bottom paint, primarily because it will stand up to haul-outs. A hard coat will need to be sanded / refreshed if allowed to dry out as it oxidizes and will stop working.

I used: PARTS - 94-5693G MICRON EXTRA BLACK - GALLON (LIST PRICE $406.89) and it has worked very well this past year.
For your 31, 2 gallons should be enough.
 
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