first time winterizing D3 R27

[tuggin aweigh]

The first time I winterized our R25 it was a pain, 5 years later I found it to be a familiar job to be done methodically. One item learned my first year is that a Y valve, should not be over looked. 😳

Winterizing on our new R27 with a Volvo D3, Still Tuggin Aweigh, will be done this week and the learning curve will begin. Any suggestions, advice or possibly a step by step procedure would be welcome.

Still Tuggin Aweigh

 

[knotflying]

If you have the city water inlet I first blow that out with low pressure air to all faucets. I put 6 gallons of antifreeze in the water tank. Empty the water heater of water. First open the hot water and let it run through then do the cold in the galley and head. Pour antifreeze down the shower drain and let it pump out. If you have air conditioning I use an antifreeze hand pump with a hose I made that will fit into the discharge. I open the seacock and pump until it flows out. I put the bilge plug in and I also pump antifreeze into the high water bilge pump until it flows out of the pump. I close the seacock to the engine intake, open the screen have two gallons of antifreeze open and ready to pour into the strainer. Have someone start the engine as you pour antifreeze into the strainer and it comes out the exhaust. If you have a wabasto heater you should have a way to pour a bit of antifreeze into the condensate drain. Pump all of the water out of your head and then put antifreeze in there and pump it into the holding tank. Also pour antifreeze into the sea strainer and pump it into the head. Open the Y valve and pump out through the macerator pump. If you have a generator do the same operation as you did with your engine. Now pour antifreeze into the bilge until it starts to pump out and then remove the plug. Pour some antifreeze into the cockpit drains until it starts to flow out of the stern.
I think I got it all. I wind up using about 12 to 15 gallons. I tend to overkill though.

Good luck,
Mike Rizzo

 

[TonyM]

Hi All,
Don't forget the cockpit wash down pump and hose if installed.
Good Luck

 

[Gin]

Still Tuggin Aweigh,

Are you winterizing at the dock or on the hard?

We are hoping to cruise well into December and beyond. And we will be at the dock all year. We've purchased a bilge heater to install to keep the engine compartment warmish through the winter. But we plan to winterize the water systems, head, etc on board.

So when you winterize, do a check list and narrative. Other of us R27 owners facing our first winter -- whether we are fully or only partially winterizing for the off season -- will be deeply in your debt if you do!

- Gini

 

[Irish Mist]

I am leaving my boat in for a bit and was worried about the odd cold night so I installed a light socket on each side of the engine with a 75 watt light build in each one .. This is not near as effective as a heater but will keep things above freezing as long as it doesn't get too cold..

 

[Lone Star Ranger]

On the Ranger Factory Technical Bulletins site is a very easy to follow Winterizing Procedure for an R29 that one can use for any of the boats. It's what I used to winterize our 21 and now 27.

 

[Longbranch Louie]

Rather than run a heater or light bulb continually, an option is to get a thermo cube plug. (about 15 bucks) It allows power to flow when the temperature reaches 37 or so degrees and shuts off at 45. I Used one in my pump house for years. One caution is to choose a heat source that is not affected by the power shutting off. Some of the new heaters have safety auto shutoffs that prevent the heater from coming back on after a power failure/interruption unless the heater switch itself is turned off and back on. This would apply even without using a cube. I purchased one heater that had a lower wattage setting but returned to find it off after a brief power outage had occurred. If you leave a heater on your boat to prevent freezing make sure its one that will come back on if power is interrupted by someone accidentally disturbing the plug or after an outage.