fresh water flushing in saltwater

[BB marine]

This is my first year dealing with my C26 D3 Volvo 220 hp operating in salt water. I wanted to keep the engine compartment looking new, internal raw water cooling system clean, and head odors to a minimum. I made a couple of changes to the boat to accommodate this.

(1) Removed the raw water flush hose from the Marine Hardware sea stainer port and installed fresh water flush for the head.
(2) Installed a ball valve at the Marine Hardware sea strainer port ( old head raw water port). At the end of the ball valve is a Garden hose fitting that a 7/8 reenforced flexible hose attaches to. At the end of a day of cruising if we are in a marina and tied up I top off our water tank and then fill a 3 gallon pail that I have on board with fresh water and put the hose in the pail. I attach my 7/8" hose to the ball valve attached to the strainer and place the other end in the pail. I start the engine, then open the ball valve. I let the engine run for about a minute and close the engine seacock. The water for raw water system is now being pulled from the pail flushing the complete raw water system. I run the engine for about 5 minutes and then shut it down. I then close the ball valve and place the engine keys on the handle of the seacock so I am reminded to open it before starting the engine . My engine is fully flushed and sits with fresh water in the raw water cooling system. Using this method I never spill salt water in and around the motor mounts, My stainer looks shiny new, If I need to clean the stainer I have fresh water in it.
(3) Shaft packing shield installed over the packing gland to deflect all spray down into the bilge and not up which leaves a fine mist of salt water coating the engine compartment. This shield has worked better than my expectations. It is made of a .090 thick vinyl material and snaps in place. After a 1.5 month period last fall and 3 months this winter cruising in Florida waters there is no evidence of tarnishing of the packing gland , rust at the mounts or salt residue anywhere in the compartment.

(1) and (2)
Fresh water hose install and rerouting of waste hose to take the kink out. I made the hole larger and removable cover for easier access to head plumbing.
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(3)
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When doing my 100 hr servicing yesterday I was happy with the results seen from these changes. I can say there is no evidence in the engine compartment of this boat being operated in salt water. Looks like the day we took delivery!

 

[HookedUp]

All good upgrades.

My Albemarle came with neutra-salt systems for both engines and after 10 years both engines, exhaust systems, etc. were still in good shape. The stuff's not cheap, but cheaper than major repairs. After I sold it, the new owner opted to install a fresh water system to flush after use similar to what you've done. Less expensive than neutra-salt and it should help reduce or eliminate salt water damage.

 

[HookedUp]

Should have added...Your decision to move to fresh water for the head is a good one. Current boat is the first one I've had with fresh water and OH, what a difference in odor control. It was a constant battle to reduce (not eliminate) odors in previous raw water heads/holding tanks. Now with fresh water in 3 years I haven't done anything beyond simple odor control and never noticed an odor at all. Really worth it.

 

[SkookumR29]

Absolutely love your flushing solution Brian, thanks for taking the time to share this with all of us. This has been an ongoing discussion/debate ever since I first joined the Tugnuts site and what you have outlined is straight forward and effective.

I converted my raw water washdown to fresh water - getting rid of the pump, hose and connection to sea-strainer - so I now have a spare 3/4" port on my strainer. I have been intending to do what you have done, but was not sure if the raw water pump would do a sufficient job of circulating fresh water from a dock-side bucket. Now that you have successfully worked this sequence out, I am all over it and am putting this at the top of my list of things to do on our 2011 R29.