Fresh Water Gauge Fault

[linedoctor]

My 29 has had water gauge issues which are getting worse. The gauge often showed the water tank was completely full when it was not. After messing around with it, I realized that it's somehow tied to the the propane safety switch/gauge next to the water gauge. Turning the propane switch on and off several times affects the water gauge and it will work for a time before pegging to the full position again. With time this trick is becoming less successful. There's clearly a fault or short of some kind.

Does anyone have any idea where these two separate systems have something in common to look for?

Thanks

 

[CAPTCRUNCH]

My first guess would be it's the devices' proximity and an electromagnetic field created by the switch. If it's do-able, I'd try moving one or the other temporarily to see if that cures the fault.

 

[Spinner]

My R-29 did not exhibit that behavior. Water tank gauge appeared to be pretty accurate. Do you keep the propane switched off except when using the stove?

 

[Todd]

Remove the wall in the cave and look at the tank. On my 29 the tank vent had a low point in the line. When filling the tank the vent line will get water in it but this low point kept it from draining back to the tank. As the tank emptied this blockage in the line caused a vacuum in the tank equal to the pressure required to suck the water out of the vent line. This caused the top of the tank to deform, causing the level sensor to hit the side of the tank and give a full tank indication. I rerouted the vent line and installed a vacuum break in the tank which fixed my problems.

 

[Connerkip]

I have the same issue with my freshwater tank. The top and sides pull in from a vacuum. It has puzzled me until I read your post. When I open my fill cap I get a soft whoosh of air sucking into the opening. I've blown through the vent line several times and found it clear, but I never thought water in the vent line would be the issue. My vent line comes out of my Cutwater 30 tank essentially horizontally. I see no clearance to route it with a slope. Please tell me more about how you rerouted it, and particularly about the vacuum break. I worry that long term my tank may be compromised. Thanks.

 

[Todd]

For the vent I installed a 1/4", springless, ball check valve which I obtained from one of my Environmental suppliers. I mention "Environmental" because as soon as you use that word you can be sure the decimal point is not placed correctly in the pricing. I use these devices in my work as an Geologist so I had knowledge of their existance. Tiny little plastic check valves, again, no spring that would require suction to open the valve.

I installed a 1/4" tube through a hole I drilled in the top of the tank, sealing with silicon. The tube has to be shaped like a small candy cane so the valve will point downward when installed on the end of it. These check valves do not have springs in them and must be installed nearly vertical.

You may be able to get a tiny spring check and remove the spring. If not I cold get you one of the valves I used but you would not believe how little you get for $40.00. PM me an email and I could send a photo.