galvanic isolator install - oven removal?

Cutwater28GG

Cutwater28GG

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2016
Messages
1,960
Location
seattle
Fluid Motion Model
R-21 EC
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Cutwater 28
Vessel Name
Living The Dream
so I was reading an old Brian post on his galvanic isolator install where he installed it under the oven. This seems like a good spot as there must be a good earth cable by the AC breaker that's in that location.

the thing is its too difficult to reach. I was then wondering how hard it is to remove the oven.

Does anyone have some tips on removing the oven temporarily? Is it just the screws on the inside at the top that are screwed into the counter that hold it in place?

appreciate any advice
thanks
 
Recommend you MOVE the galvanic isolator, but NOT remove it ...then the oven becomes a moot point. IN as far as the isolator, I was taught to have it as close to the shore power connection where it comes into the boat, as possible - I installed mine about 4 feet (wire length) in the battery compartment .... the whole idea of the galvanic isolator is to protect your boat against all other boats in the marina, predominantly ... you can find a place for it in the battery compartment or in the compartment just forward of the battery. Simple enough to open the sheath of the wire up (carefully, and do not damage the power feed or return), break out the green ground wire, cut it, lug it, put in the isolator and tape wrap all of the rest. It is a 30 minute job you can cram into a couple or three hours, if you have a soda going ... BE SURE YOU FOLLOW ALL ELECTRICAL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS. Do NOT work it hot. Look at some of the other posts folks have made in this forum. This is also a great time to review your entire galvanic grounding system.I am guessing moving the isolator will prove a better move than the oven, in the First Mate's opinion :lol:
 
I installed a galvanic isolator in my C30 myself, was one of the easier projects. I installed mine in the lazarette cabinet under the cockpit helm, mounted against the hullside. I echo WA7pugs comment to mount it as close to the shore power inlet as possible. There's a new wire on mine now that goes from the shore power inlet to the isolator, and then from the isolator into the Ancor triplex that goes to the ELCI breaker on the AC panel.
 
Cutwater28GG":ceec0il2 said:
so I was reading an old Brian post on his galvanic isolator install where he installed it under the oven. This seems like a good spot as there must be a good earth cable by the AC breaker that's in that location.

the thing is its too difficult to reach. I was then wondering how hard it is to remove the oven.

Does anyone have some tips on removing the oven temporarily? Is it just the screws on the inside at the top that are screwed into the counter that hold it in place?

appreciate any advice
thanks
Click to expand...

The oven does not need to be removed to install the isolator under the oven. There is enough room with the cabinet empty. I made a mounting board and Gel coated it. The board is mounted to the back of the rear cabinet. The positive for this location is it requires no cutting the ground wire. There is a terminal strip there. Prewire the Isolator with 10gauge green wire with an eye terminal. Mount the isolator in the cabinet and attach the galvanic wires to the terminal strip. one lead to the terminal coming from the shore power receptacle and the other terminal going the breaker panel. This location is in a dry location which is a requirement of the isolation instruction. This is the first break in the wire there are no connections to the electrical system before this location also a Requirement. ( the distance from the shore power receptacle to the isolator makes no difference to the isolators performance. The reason that the manual States install as close to the shore power receptacle as possible is to confirm that there are no wiring interruption between the Shore power and the isolator. you cam mount it anywhere in the boat as long as there are no breaks in the wiring. I mounted it right before the break. I want the least amounts of breaks in the wiring of the shore power. Every break is a connection can cause resistance especially in the enviormnt of the non ventilated storage compartment in the cockpit. Wa7pug was taught to install it as close to the receptical. his installation is in an area of moisture as we all know how well the deck drains work. What difference electrically does it make if the isolator is 3' ,10', 20' as long as there are no connections between the isolator and the shore power receptical? We have a 50' shore power cord to plug into the boat. The isolator is protecting the boat from the shore power. Distance makes no difference. It just needs to be the first break in the boat cable wire.


gallery2.php?g2_itemId=72328
In this photo you will see the terminal block with the green grounding terminals. This is a factory install this is the first break in the wiring. The isolator is installed at this break requiring no cutting of the terminal or opening the boat cable casing in a moist inviorment.


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This shows the terminal strip.

gallery2.php?g2_itemId=72334
The isolator is mounted above the ELCI and is in a position easy for yearly testing. You will notice in this photo the 4" vent hoses. This is a one and only Cutwater that has a true ventilation system for the engine compartment and the storage locker areas. I'm the only boat I have ever owned that had no ventilation ???
 
thanks all.
The battery compartment installation looks more difficult, but I need to retrace the wiring and see if I can find a spot. does anyone know the routing of the shorepower wiring between the shore power cable sockert and the AC breaker? does it run outside behind the battery compartment or in the battery compartment or through the engine bay?

the spot that Brian suggests would be awesome for me, alas I don't have that grounding stip. I just have the AC shorepower breaker.

I need to dig further to see where they have installed it. I fear it is on the back side of the panel where the AC is. all I have is a trunk of wires running vertically next to the hull and then out of site.

Brian, you must have thinner and longer arms than me!
 
FYI - I have full canvas across the fantail on my boat so not exposed to high moisture ... and that is not any more dangerous than any of the switches or other electrical connections in the battery compartment. What I do NOT know is the compartments and layout of Cutwater opposed to RT .... your compartments may be set up differently. Just remember if you put it on a boat, it is not IF, but rather WHEN you will have to go back in there and service it, no matter what it is. Put it where you can get to it now ... and more importantly, later, after you have (maybe intentionally) forgotten half of what it took to place it there.
 
Ronnie Gonzalez at Bellingham Yachts told me they install them in the storage compartment under the cooler on the port side so that’s where I put mine.
 
Cutwater28GG said:
thanks all.
The battery compartment installation looks more difficult, but I need to retrace the wiring and see if I can find a spot. does anyone know the routing of the shorepower wiring between the shore power cable sockert and the AC breaker? does it run outside behind the battery compartment or in the battery compartment or through the engine bay?

the spot that Brian suggests would be awesome for me, alas I don't have that grounding stip. I just have the AC shorepower breaker.

I need to dig further to see where they have installed it. I fear it is on the back side of the panel where the AC is. all I have is a trunk of wires running vertically next to the hull and then out of site.

Brian, you must have thinner and longer arms than me!
Click to expand...

Hi, were you able to find your spot for the isolator? I believe I’ve run into the same problem you’re describing and haven’t been able to locate a strip or ID a wire.

2016 C28 - only thing under my stove is elci and propane sniffer.

Thanks, -Nate
 
marob said:
Ronnie Gonzalez at Bellingham Yachts told me they install them in the storage compartment under the cooler on the port side so that’s where I put mine.
Click to expand...
Hi, thinking this the route I’d like to go. Do you have any pointers on locating the correct wire?

Thanks, Nate
 
Wherever you locate it, be sure it's accessible for annual ( minimum) testing, immediately in the circuit between the shore power inlet and the next device in the circuit ( should be the elci/main breaker).

They work great, until they don't, and testing them is the only assurance they're working properly.
 
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