Gas stove

[PhilR]

My propane tank is full, properly connected the the gas line and the Xintex gas control valve/solenoid is turned on. The stove won't lite and I'm getting no gas odor. Any suggestions?

Thanks, Phil

 

[Barry Cohen]

On my R-27, there is a control display near the sink for the propane detector. It has to be showing all green lights for the stove and burners to work.

 

[PhilR]

The green lights/valve are on......still no gas coming out.

 

[knotflying]

Do you realize that you have to push the knob in and turn it? I think that is a safety feature in case it turns when you don't want it on and gas will escape.

 

[PhilR]

Yea...I know the drill...it still ain't workin!

 

[Barry Cohen]

I also messed with the red thingy on the solenoid.

How's that for tech talk!

 

[Levitation]

Turn off all power in the boat... Go to the propane tank... WIth the tank valve closed take a wrench to the fitting and loosen it until it is ready to fall off...Open the tank valve until you feel or hear gas coming out at a good rate, then tighten everything back up... This proves the tank is providing actual gas flow...

Wait a while until the odor clears... With the power still off go to the solenoid for the stove (the other end of the line from the tank) and using a pair of wrenches crack it open and see if you have actual flow of propane (not just a faint odor)... Leave the boat opened up until the odor has cleared...

Then open the fitting on the output side of the solenoid and see if you have a flow of gas through the solenoid when the stove valve is opened... At this point you will know where the stoppage in gas flow is at and can then go about solving that...

 

[abcandjrc]

...... all the time remembering that propane is heavier than air and settles in the bilge. Be careful.

We lived on our Crealock 37 sailboat, which had a propane heater and a range. We installed a sniffer in the bilge. That gave us peace-of-mind for the most part. The "sealed", gel Prevailer@ main batteries were located in the saloon under the seats, and that area adjoined the bilge. The funny thing was that when charging with our high-output Balmar alternator we would have to open a hatch in the cabin sole to let hydrogen escape or we would get a "false" on the sniffer. (??I suspect hydrogen since it is a product of charging, and whatever it was would apparently rise from the bilge ??) Makes one wonder if he could blow up his boat with a spark while charging....... 😱

 

[PhilR]

I think I'll have the repair shop guy take a look at it this week while he is replacing the leaky toilet. I'm a bit reluctant to take a wrench to the systems on a new boat....don't want to disturb the warranty.

 

[Andrew Custis]

Just to make sure I have this correct, The manual valve on the tank is open and both green lights on the display are lit. Do you here the solenoid clicking open and closed as you hit the valve on button on the display? The ovens are made by Seaward and Lonny over there is the expert on these systems.

When these are all correct, how long have you put the knob to ignite and depressed it? Can you hear the gas start escape when you do this? Typically you will hear some hissing noise while doing this. I cannot remember one of these not working so far so I would be curious to the outcome of this. Please email me directly on this issue. andrewcustis@rangertugs.com. Thanks!

 

[Woodrow]

Disconnect the tank and see if gas flows from the tank when the valve is slightly opened. If not, the tank was over filled and the overfill protection device is preventing flow. (assuming the tank isn't empty)

 

[PhilR]

The tank worked fine on my Weber grill, and releases a small amount of gas when the tank valve is closed and the line disconnected. I assume the tank isn't the problem.

 

[thataway]

Occasionally, if teflon tape is used on connections, it can plug up an oriface. You might want to double check all joints.

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

The last few days our propane stove burners were not igniting properly. Plenty of propane and everything was turned on. My first thought was that the ignitor on the burners needed to be cleaned so I dug out the manuals but they gave no indication on how to perform a proper cleaning of the little sparks sensors. Upon further inspection I noticed that the "Burner Ignite" button, when pushed in to cause the ignitor to spark was only working intermittently. I then decided to take the "Burner Ignite" button apart to check for loose wires or connections and low and behold I find out its powered with a AAA battery. Battery replaced and all works fine. Just a heads up in the event you didn't know this, like me.

Jim

 

[PhilR]

Whoda guessed. That's a good piece of info to store away.