Genset Anode broke inside exchanger

G

GaylesFaerie

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2020
Messages
580
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2701D112
Vessel Name
Gayles Faerie
This falls under the category "Its always something!". Went to change the anode in the Mase genset. Unscrewed the anode nut and it looks like most of the anode cylinder broke off and remains inside the heat exchanger.

Old removed anode:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0326Gxscxyz7csu1qDG4C7R4Q

View into heat exchanger (out of focus but somewhat visible):
https://share.icloud.com/photos/05bqgBrBNIIDC_Fmg-EOwYIMg

Any ideas on how to remedy this? The opening is pretty well plugged with the remains of the anode. I'm sure I can't drill it out as the surface is somewhat crumbly. I don't want to push it in for fear of damaging the inside of the heat exchanger. All I can think to do is replace the nut and check it throughout the season until its gone to put in the new one.

G
 
My opinion, try to drill it out. Try drilling with a 1/8" drill bit. Sharp bit and drill slowly to prevent it from pushing into the exchanger. If successful drilling in about 1/4" to 1/2" , use a #8 self tapping screw about 2" long thread into the drilled hole. If successful doing that you now have the screw to pull the anode out of the exchanger. I have used this method in the past when I had room to drill.

Good luck
 
Might not be easy to get a drill in there. If it's a MASE 2.7 like I have, access is limited. Even if you take the sound cabinet off. Right angle drill might do it, but even that would be difficult.

In the second photo it looks as if it's still making electrical contact. Galvanic action should do its work and it should dissolve. The remaining core of the anode might rattle around in your cooling system, but if it makes electrical contact, it should still dissolve.

-martin610
 
...room to drill.
Click to expand...

Thanks Brian, but I spoke too soon on the drill option. As soon as I read those 3 words I realized, there is no room. The Mase generator is so cramped inside that little box it comes in. When I go down to the boat today, I'll see if I can fit a Dremel in there but I'm not hopeful. Any second best options? Gary
 
Thanks Martin, I also pressed Submit too soon on the prior reply. I wanted to add:

Why would the anode corrode this way, first at the closed end of the cylinder and nut rather than the open end inside the exchanger? Was it just bad luck with a defective anode? Something else? Gary
 
The anode corrosion that I saw in your picture is unusual. When I change my anode it looks like a soft serve ice cream cone, tapered, thick at the base and ends in a soft point.

Right now, I'm thinking that somehow the base of the anode made contact with the surrounding metal. Not sure how that would happen. Are you sure they sold you the right size? It should be Mase 80162. The wrong size might have made contact with the metal.

The anode metal is very soft. I wonder if you could place a drill bit in something and drill into the anode by hand? Perhaps a dis mounted drill chuck? Then maybe back out the anode with an EZ out?

If not, it should dissolve on its own and I think you will be OK.

-martin610
 
Are you sure they sold you the right size?
Click to expand...

I had the genset removed and bench repaired by a certified Mase shop. To be honest their service was pretty poor as far as communications and follow up are concerned. Perhaps that quality bleeds over to their repairs as well.

G
 
The chances of the anode dissolving are in my option slim to none. I would bet that the continuity between the anode and the surface contact is high resistance and not really doing anything. A quick check with a ohm meter will tell the story. Place a lead on the anode and then on the threads. Read the resistance. I personally would want to remove the anode and replace it with a new one. Using a left had drill bit and easy out may do the job but the issue is you must pull the anode out. Many times the easy out will grab and turn but does not grip enough to pull on it and it pulls out of the hole. A screw thread will grip and allow you to work the anode out of the bore. How much trouble is it to move the generator to gain access to it to drill ? I have never worked on a Maze so I do not know what is entailed in removing the exchanger. Removing the exchanger may be necessary at some point to get the anode out. It does appear to be sized wrong. To be honest when looking at the anode stuck in the exchanger and the pipe plug that is removed. The two do not look like they were mated. May just be the photo. By looking at the photo it looks like someone tried installing a larger anode and broke it off and then installed the original anode that was completely eroded away and called it a day for someone else to deal with at a later date. G you may be that someone! Just my opinion. Good luck and take your time removing it. This kind of job requires time and patience!
 
The genset is extremely tight in the locker. So much so that when it wouldn't start last season because of corroded power or ground connections, the entire unit had to be removed because those connections entered in from the back side which is an inch from the inner hull and under the locker lip. No way to remove the rear case panel. Once the whole unit had to be removed, that's when I decided to let the shop take it away and over haul it.

I can remove the top cover which allows access to the anode, and other maintenance items, but there is simply no way to get a Dremel in there without taking things apart. I'll post a picture later showing how tight inside the compartment is as well.

I'll try using a dry wall screw by hand (time and patience is an understatement) to start a hole in the anode. They are quite pointy with sharp threads. Then maybe an easy out. G
 
Removing the broken anode would be my first choice also.

However, I think it likely there is good electrical contact there. The MASE doesn't have a typical shell and tube heat exchanger. It's water and air, like a car radiator. The radiator is a copper alloy and with the anode stuck in that location continuity should be good. As Brian says definitely check with a meter. You should get a beep when set to continuity, one probe on the radiator and the other on the anode. The broken anode should wear from the outside in.

A drywall screw is a great idea since the threads are so coarse. Maybe a stubby screwdriver? Or a Phillips bit in a small ratchet wrench?

I wonder if you have a warranty claim since a so-called certified shop did the work?

-martin610
 
I wonder if you have a warranty claim since a so-called certified shop did the work?
Click to expand...

Thanks Martin. I'll use the genset as an anchor before I go back to that shop. In addition to this anode issue, they also left a wire bundle near it unfastened, the tie down is there but the bolt is gone. Pretty shoddy work not worth the paper any warranty is written on.

Genset in situ (back cover panel totally inaccessible):
https://share.icloud.com/photos/068IVKb ... KVBT-HPEzA

Top cover panel removed (picture might need to be rotated 90 deg. anode is behind/below red wire):
https://share.icloud.com/photos/096Tq41 ... 305uYUy6fg

Will do continuity check today. G
 
Several months ago I removed all panels on the Generator in the boat to replace insulation. I have a 2013 C26. The large panel on back comes off just like the front with a lever release. I'm not 100% sure but if I remember correctly the panel behind the heat exchanger only has two screws at the top an two pins on the bottom that fit into frame. I used a 90 degree screwdriver to loosen them. My anode was in two pieces as well. Luckily the zinc came out with not much problem. Good Luck.

Britt
 
I forgot to mention on previous post. While I had everything open I moved the capacitor which is at the bottom back of the generator outside the enclosure. I had to replace it once so I figured I'd put in a better location. When you get the rear panel off you will see the capacitor.
 
Thanks for the comments Britt. No way on my Ranger is that back panel accessible to be removed. I might (low probability) get the screws out but then what? The panel will be sitting there trapped between the genset frame and hull. I'm guessing your Cutwater has more room to manuvuer.

I ran the genset today in prep for launch next week and got out all the anti-freeze and flushed with fresh water. I've got a feeling the moment I touch that squishy remainder of a zinc it will pop loose inside the radiator or just disintegrate and drain into the genset box. At least it will be relatively fresh water and not salt.

Forgot to do the Ohm test today - distracted by a bunch of other prep work. Tomorrow. G
 
Got continuity between the bolt hole threads and the middle of the anode. But, the center of the anode is very unstable i.e. wet and soft and it ever so slowly drips into the bolt hole threads. Did my best to touch the probes to the anode middle and a dry part of the bolt hole threads and got a tone. Boat is splashing Monday so I'll be continuing this task in the water. Thanks all. Gary
 
The fact that the center is soft may make it easier for you to get a screw into it with enough purchase to lift out the old anode.

Best of luck.

-martin610
 
I was able to insert a coarse thread screw into the center of the zinc, but it was just mush - I had no purchase at all and a gentle pull on the screw simply extracted some of the mush.
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0f6R9dOntY5ucN_bMyGBZZ_Hg

I cleaned out the bolt hole as best I could with a dental pick, Q-Tips, and a towel. An outer ring of zinc is still fused to the inner most threads:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0afBYLF8WUCn6LM4NeqrDQLUw

So I guess there will be some protection but it will need frequent checking. I tried putting the new anode in but it gets jammed by the remainder of the old one. Putting the old and new side by side, it is clear the service mechanic used the wrong size anode:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0bdpOsHF8PkJMEjXCZAWwJlKQ

I'm still struggling to figure out how only the central core of the anode was active to wear away as it did. G
 
Epilogue...
I finally got the jammed remainder of the oversize zinc removed! Here's what I did...
1. With the bad anode installed I ran the getset to get saltwater in the cooling system.
2. Let it pickle for a few days.
3. Run the genset but feed it fresh water from a 5 gallon pail with a hose attachment.
4. Remove the raw water filter and unscrew the anode enough to let the water drain out of the system into the bilge. This prevented salt or fresh water spilling out of the heat exchanger and onto the starter wire connections.
5. Using a dental pick and very small screw driver as a chisel/scrapper remove what is possible of the old anode.
6. Repeat steps 1 - 5.

After four cycles I was able to put the proper anode in without issues. Pics below:

Got a big chunk on the 2nd cycle...
https://share.icloud.com/photos/090gCW6 ... FcQrATlcIg

More crud on cycle 3...
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0d7t8ud ... pK-s9nHlzg

Cycle 4 got enough of the outer ring...
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0f16tTg ... tzlpAagT9Q

Finally...
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b2ePZ8 ... IdXi-ro39g

One thing not shown is stuffing a rag under the opening and over voids around the engine where I could lose tools, pieces of the anode, or the new anode. If I did drop something, there is no way or room to fish it out unless you remove the genset so you can open the back service panel.

HTH, Gary
 
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