Getting R27 on Trailer

[CaspersCruiser]

I'm going to put my 2012 R27 on the trailer for the first time since taking delivery and launching in April. I have 10 years experience trailering a 21' deep-V cuddy and a 21' deckboat, both with stern drives, but this will be my first time getting a large straight inboard boat on a trailer. Give me your tips, tricks, hints, do's, don'ts.

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

Bill:

First thing I did was to put the mast and antenna down, take the cockpit canvas off and store, fold the canvas hardware forward and zip tie the hardware tight. With the trailer I'd let out what I thought was enough winch strap and secure the end to the trailer stanchion before i backed the trailer into the water. When I backed the trailer into the water I backed it up until the back side of the trailer brake actuator reservoir at its base was just being touched by water. Walk the boat up onto the trailer, easier with two people and a side tie too dock. The transom will be floating at this point but the bow will be secure in the center chokes of the trailer. Connect the wench strap and start cranking. With the boat secure connect the stanchion chain to the boat and slowly pull the loaded trailer from the water. By slowly pulling forward the boat would almost always center itself onto the trailer. Once out of the water secure the transom strap, unscrew the hull drain plug, check all your trailer lights and away you go.

Jim F

 

[Dale777]

CaspersCruiser,

In addition to Jim's excellent instructions, I would add a couple of more comments:

1. When you winch the boat forward while the trailer is in the water, the bow should end up touching, or almost touching, the bow roller on the trailer. However, when you pull the trailer out of the water, you will likely find that the bow no longer touches the bow roller, possibly being 2-3 inches away from the bow roller. Then when on level ground, you will likely need to "bump" the boat forward to again touch the bow roller, by proceeding at a very slow speed then tapping the truck's brake hard. The boat should slide forward that last 2-3 inches. It is a trial and error approach to how to accomplish this.

2. I strongly suggest some type of adjustable tie-downs (2 of them) be attached to the stern of the boat then to the trailer. Some people have an adjustable strap that goes over the cockpit, with chafe protection where the strap touches the gunwales of the cockpit, then to each side of the trailer frame.

3. I also suggest another adjustable tie-down be attached to bow ring of the boat then to the trailer frame.

 

[knotflying]

All good advice by Jim and Dale. Ramp incline makes a difference as well. I usually let my fenders of the trailer get completely covered with about an inch of water going over the top.
Another important thing is to check where the ramp ends underwater. Having the trailer wheels roll off the end can create a complicated situation.

Not all ramps are equal! The best situation is a decently inclined ramp that allows enough depth to float the trailer on. Having nice floating docks where you can set the trailer up and then "walk" the boat onto the trailer without engine power is the cat's meow.

If I decide on a ramp that I have never been to I will examine it via google maps satellite view to determine if the conditions are favorable. Being on a lake is somewhat easier that salt water where you are dealing with tides and current. Think about how winds, tide and current will affect you. I prefer to be pushed up against the dock rather than away. The tide will affect how far you have to back down the ramp for the trailer to be submerged. Low tide may possibly not give you enough ramp. If you can't see the end of the ramp under water, use your utility pole to find the end or at least make sure you will be okay if you back up a certain distance.

And, oh yes, when launching be sure to screw the bilge plug in! I have a reminder etched in at the winch. don't ask why. 😳 And take your rear strap off as well. Jim can tell you about that! 😳 Yes boats can lift trailers in water.

 

[ALICE J]

Additional to Jim and Dale, centering the boat on the trailer depends on the angle of the ramp and you may have to power the boat onto the trailer. I find the winch too tough to crank. The guide bars on the aft end of the trailer are a great help. Stern thruster helps to push boat awarthship on the trailer. The trailer fenders should be slightly under water. I used the trailer fenders, to help center the boat, keeping them equal distance from the hull by sighting downward or have your helper do it from the cockpit. Be careful on the "Ranger Slide" tapping the brakes to move the boat forward to the boat stop. I bent my boat stop, reinforced it, now I can climb on the bow from the trailer tongue. but now flattened and split the yellow roller. I haven't used silicone on the bunks yet, I fear it to be too slippy. A word of caution when launching, keep the safety chain from the boat stop fastened to the tow eye unless you want to swim after your boat as it slides away from the trailer, dock, and jumping distance. 😳 Take it slow, try for a week day at the ramp, forget week ends unless you like to be the center of attention :lol:

 

[tlkenyon]

Silicone spray (Marykate Liquid Rollers) on the bunks is a great idea. Just make sure not to undo the winch strap when backing down the ramp until you REALLY want the boat to leave the trailer, because it is very slippery.

Also, the "Ranger Bump" is totally unnecessary and pretty hard on everything. If you winch the boat far enough onto the trailer, (see attached photo), the "Bump" is not needed. Certainly, this requires considerable effort at the winch, but it is not that hard. We are on a lake and launch/recover quite often, and I have avoided the "Bump" for quite some time. The last few cranks actually lift the bow a few inches, to the point where the winch strap is straight, and does not drape over the intermediate roller.

The first photo shows the relationship between the boat and trailer before cranking. The second photo shows the "cranking complete" situation where no "Bump" is needed.

 

[Havinfun]

We received our 27 in March and have trailered almost every weekend since then. To load, I stop the truck with the tires almost at waters edge, we walk the boat forward until it is wedged into the front bunks and power load until the bow touches the stand and turn off the engine to hop out and crank up the winch. I crank the winch as far up as possible, usually touching the bottom of the roller and slowly pull out of the water. As I am pulling out of the water I monitor the chine to fender clearance on both sides and compare them. If necessary, I will slowly back in and very slowly pull back out and boat has been centered every time. It is disconcerting to watch the trailer flex and the boat rock as it is pulled out.

Once we get to a flat spot, I put as much force on the winch strap as possible and do a brake check...... Then I get out again and do another brake check. 3 is the most rapid stops to get snugged tightly to the stand so far.

Everyone develops their own routine, this is what works for us. We used to power load our old boat with me at the bow directing when steering corrections were required but have not tried that yet with the tug.

I have found that I need to turn the brake power way down to back down the ramp or the trailer brakes make the axles hop quite a bit. If I forget to turn the power back up, the first stop reminds me.

It may take an adjustment or two, but I like to be only 12" to 18" away from the dock with the trailer fender. Just gotta remember to keep the trailer parallel with the dock.

If you look between the swim step and the transom to verify the rudder is straight you will avoid the temptation to steer the boat as is slides up the bunks if you power up. It feels weird as the boat moves but it is centering itself up and it's easy to over correct with the rudder.

When I hop into the boat to power on, my better half walks to the bow stand and directs how far the boat is from with how far apart her hands are. Makes it less stressful wondering if you are going to hit the bow stand or not.

We do not have a canopy on the truck so it is easy to take a big step from the dock to the tire and then over the tailgate to access the winch without getting wet.

Have fun!

 

[BradOwens]

I strongly advise against powering the boat onto the trailer. The wash from your prop can damage the sea floor, river bottom, or whatever. It can dig a hole, and pile up the material on the back side, creating a dangerous shoal.

 

[CaspersCruiser]

Thanks for all the great information. I wish I had a floating dock finger next to the ramp so I could walk it on the trailer, but they just simply do not exist at boat ramps in this part of the world. I will be using a ramp on the Ohio River and will be dealing with current. I've used silicone on the bunks of my other trailers. I may try it on this one. I'm well aware that easy on also means easy to slide off.

 

[ixlr8]

I strongly advise against powering the boat onto the trailer. The wash from your prop can damage the sea floor, river bottom, or whatever. It can dig a hole, and pile up the material on the back side, creating a dangerous shoal.

Several marinas/ramps around me have a 'no power on' rule for this reason. If you 'power on' there is a good chance you will be banned from using that marina/ramp.

 

[Crewdog]

All excellent advice.

I found that once boat is on trailer, and if there is a short space to be winched up fully into the bow blocks, that backing the boat BACK into the water a couple or so feet will raise the bow enough that winch can be used without straining, the bow will seat on the trailer stanchion, and avoiding the need for the "Ranger Bump".

 

[tlkenyon]

Most of the boat ramps I use (not many choices) are not sufficiently deep to get the tug to float high enough to eliminate the "straining" at the winch. But I still consider straining better than bumping (gotta be a joke hidden in there somewhere....)

TK