GFI no power to barbeque plug in HELP.

yorangerjim

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 29, 2018
Messages
114
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2736J819
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Ranger 27 northwest edition
Vessel Name
R & R
Hello
I have an R27 2018. I have a problem where I plug in the electric barbeque plugin. It is a GFI, and I can't reset it. There is no power to it. I checked the other GFI, and they are ok.
Thank you
Jim
 
If you have a grill like my C24 make sure the grill lid is open. That plug will not work if the lid is closed because there is a safety switch.
KKRCRACE
 
Is the grill plugged in or is it hardwired, if it is plugged in unplug and try to reset the GFCI.


There are many ways to trouble shoot this is how I would start.

I assume the circuit breaker feeding this circuit has been checked and is not tripping?
Are there any other receptacles not operational?

WITH POWER OFF

Remove the GFCI - If there are other receptacles on this circuit you may have to check them as well.
Check continuity between the Neutral and Ground
Then restore power and check for voltage between the black/hot/energized conductor to the white/neutral and to the ground/green.
The next step would be to check at the circuit breaker, once again TURN OFF ALL POWER, shore power, and inverter. Remove the access panel in the Aft berth Verify the circuit breaker for this circuit and check all connections are tight, firm/snug not bust a nut tight. Restore Power and check the circuit breaker for this circuit for power on both sides of the circuit breaker.
 
yorangerjim":yp1tuzwy said:
Hello
I have an R27 2018. I have a problem where I plug in the electric barbeque plugin. It is a GFI, and I can't reset it. There is no power to it. I checked the other GFI, and they are ok.
Thank you
Jim

Open the lid to the transom sink. There's a safety switch, by the sink. Black push button switch. When depressed, it kills power to that outlet. Should the grill be plugged in and running and someone shut that lid a fire could result. The safety switch therefore kills power to that outlet. Need to prop that corner of the lid so the switch isn't depressed (by pass it) for running a bilge heater in the off-season, and ensure the grill isn't plugged in.
 
Hello again. This is just an update on the plug for the Barbeque, and thank everyone for their opinions.
1st, the breaker said stove, not barbecue, so I thought it was for the stove/oven (whatever).
2nd, I wasn't aware of the safety switch. I still didn't have any power, so I jumped the safety switch, and still no power
3rd, I replaced the GFIC with a new one, and WAMO, I have power.
Thanks, everyone.

Jim
 
Just a follow up. If you are set up with a GFCI under the grille, be aware that it is not ignition proof. Having a spark producing device in the same compartment as the gas tank gave me some concern. Codewise, if you don't have a generator, while within code, it is still a risk. If you have a generator, it is really an issue, since the USCG regs are pretty clear. If no generator, still something to think about. The USCG and AYBC approved method is to have a GFCI in the cabin, and daisy chain the grille outlet off that GFCI. I revamped our 2020 last week. Took some wire, crimps, and a couple of parts, but now it both meets code and is safer.
 
I had the same problem the information from everyone is true however make sure the breaker at your breaker box switch that is marked oven or stove is on
 
quote="Jcat2010"]Just a follow up. If you are set up with a GFCI under the grille, be aware that it is not ignition proof. Having a spark producing device in the same compartment as the gas tank gave me some concern. Codewise, if you don't have a generator, while within code, it is still a risk. If you have a generator, it is really an issue, since the USCG regs are pretty clear. If no generator, still something to think about. The USCG and AYBC approved method is to have a GFCI in the cabin, and daisy chain the grille outlet off that GFCI. I revamped our 2020 last week. Took some wire, crimps, and a couple of parts, but now it both meets code and is safer.[/quote]


These are the ABYC 11.5.1.3 guidelines for ignition protection:
• 11.5.1.3.1. Potential electrical sources of ignition located in spaces containing gasoline powered machinery, or gasoline fuel tank(s), or joint fitting(s), or other connection(s) between components of a gasoline system, shall be ignition protected.
• 11.5.1.3.2. If LPG or CNG is provided on the boat, all electrical potential sources of ignition located in compartments containing LPG/CNG appliances, cylinders, fittings, valves or regulators shall be ignition protected. An exception is made for open compartments and accommodation spaces if everything is installed according to ABYC- A-1, ABYC A-33 and ABYC A-3 for gas systems and appliances.

GFCI receptacles have contacts to open when a fault is detected and could cause a spark.GFCI receptacles are not considered to be ignition protected. The ventilation to the fuel compartment is limited in a Ranger Tug or Cutwater. If there are fumes they are exhausted into the cockpit. This type of ventilation is a grey area to most surveyors. The reason this is a grey area is the way the ABYC recommendation is written. If it is a gas powered machinery compartment it requires all devises to be ignition protected. When there is a gas powered engine in the compartment a full ventilation system is installed with a blower. This is to help prevent an ignition of fumes in the event of a gas leak. The case where there is a large fuel tank that has vent fittings, fuel fittings, fuel fill fittings, the tank is fixed in the hull in a enclosed compartment with limited ventilation and electrical devises are installed in this compartment that are not intrinsically safe or ignition protected. What is the difference if the spark comes from an electrical switch or a combustable engine??? With limited ventilation and a small fuel fitting leak, a small spark will make a good day bad! Grey areas in ABYC recommendations should always favor the safe side of things instead of ( we can get by with this based on the way I read the recommendation ) I have always thought that a manufacture should meet or exceed recommendations. (I'm not just talking about Fluid Motion industries I believe all manufactures are guilty of this. It is bottom line expenses.

When it comes to machinery compartments, fuel compartments, ventilation in a boat is an important component. I don't think there is a difference if it is Gas or diesel when it comes to installing ignition protected devises in an enclosed compartment. I also don't think there should be a difference when it comes to proper ventilation. I did not have propane in my Cutwater for cooking . I often thought about the propane installation in a diesel powered boat with no compartment ventilation as not meeting or exceeding the ABYC recommendations. If you read all the requirements it is a grey area. Propane is a combustable gas, it can be ignited by a spark. The propane is mounted on the exterior of the boat in a ventilated container. The piping, valves, connections are routed through the enclosed machinery compartment with many electrical devises present, batteries, and a common rail diesel engine that as more electronics on it than an old school gasoline engine (that requires a full ventilation system). Why because there is gasoline in the boat. What about propane?

Quote: from Boat US insurance. This was given to me when I had concerns about the poor ventilation in my C26.
"Propane does have one flaw — it's heavier than air. This means that any escaping gas from a cylinder, gas line, or faulty appliance will sink to the lowest point it can find, often unnoticed. Because a boat is a confined structure, any leaking propane is likely to end up in the bilge. With out proper ventilation, enough could collect, an explosion from a stray spark is a distinct possibility. While fortunately not common because of ABYC ventilation and electrical recommendations. The BoatUS Marine Insurance files contain numerous claims for propane explosions, which often result in serious injuries. This is another reason, if you needed reminding, for having ignition-protected electrical equipment. Ignition-protected equipment, is safe for gasoline-powered engine spaces because they will not produce a spark when operating."

My point is not to make you think that your Ranger, Cutwater or any other boat is not safe. The point is, just because something is installed that doesn't meet or exceed ABYC recommendations don't over look it. I was told by a member of the NMMA we can not make manufactures follow the ABYC recommendations. We rely on them to follow the recommendations. The Manufactures puts the certification sticker on the boat we don't! If you have questions about the install ask a licensed marine surveyor, or talk with a certified ABYC technician. In most cases they will advise you. Most issues are not issues unless all the holes in the cheese line up!

If your GFCI fails and it's installation is questionable or meets that grey area install, wire it in a better location. (GFCI do not do well in marine environments unless they are in a water proof sealed box) If you see electrical devises that are installed in questionable areas where they can be damaged from moisture, poor ventilation or can be a cause of ignition in enclosed compartments think about it! Research it. Its your boat now you are the captain and responsible for the safety of you and your passengers.
 
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