Gremlins in the wiring

Ainokea

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 23, 2008
Messages
184
Fluid Motion Model
C-248 C
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Boston Whaler 170 Montauck
Vessel Name
Ainokea
Yesterday I started the engine (110 Yanmar). Started normal and all ok. Shortly after I realized that I had not turned the engine isolator switch on prior to this. Went back to confirm and it was still in the off position. First thought was a bad switch.... Back to the dock to troubled shoot. Removed the perko switches panel and brought out my trusty volt meter. With switch in either position I read 13 plus volts on switch posts and starter wire lead. As a further test I removed the starter lead and tested switch. Switch on 13 plus volts, switch off ....ZERO volts. Say it can't be so... I checked voltage on the starter lead which was disconnected from the isolator switch and ....yep.. 13 plus volts!! Somehow there is something feeding back through the engine. Disconnected all the wiring bundles to see if voltage was somehow feeding back through the instrument panel. Turned off battery charger and also disconnected shore power. No change, volt meter still showed 13 plus volts on the starter. Even borrowed another volt meter.. No change. My next step was to disconnect engine battery. Still had the same voltage at starter. Disconnected thrusters battery as well as engine batt.. No change... Somehow I am backfeeding fromhouse batts to starter. Checked all batt cables and they all go where they are supposed to. Daylight was running out and the Mosquitos were feasting on me so I called it quits.

Thought.. Recently had engine removed and replaced. Switch worked before but now I have gremlins. Starter lead goes to starter. Alternator lead goes off to charging system. I did notice that besides the starter cable there also is a smaller gauge red and a orange wire connected to starter as well as the small whitish wire that I suspect powers the solenoid. I suspect that the tech connected something wrong but not sure what.
I will be calling him tomorrow but thought I would put this out there and see if the TugNutters had a solution. Looked at Yanmar wiring diagram but got lost in the maze.

Thanks in advance!!!

Frank

Ainokea
 
Did you verify that the switch for the house batteries was not in the position that paralled the two battery sets together. Not sure how it is done but on my RV it is done by a solenoid that ties the house battery to the starter circuit so that Rv can be started with a dead starting battery. The R-25 has a similar position on one of the two switches in the "cave" but I am not sure which one. (Boat is not at the house so could not check). John
 
John,

Thanks for that thought but all switches off and still got 13 plus volts at starter . With starter lead disconnected at the switch and only connected to starter I still read 13+ volts at starter.

Thanks

Frank
 
To all

The gremlins have been banished. Yanmar tech came out today, and knew what was wrong right away. The factory ships engine with a wire connected from alternator to starter and he didnt remove it after installation. Disconnect, heat shrink and tie wrap off. All systems ok and full steam ahead....

Frank
 
I am extremely curious as to why you had to replace your 110???? having one in the Christina Bee [hull 15] i would hope to go ten thousand hrs..... by then i'll only be around 160 yrs old :lol: :lol: thanks for your reply,,, steveandtina
 
I'm even more curious as to why Yanmar runs the wire from the alternator to the starter and then disconnects it. :?

Gene
 
I'd take a wild guess and say it was for factory testing when not hooked up to a boat system.... :idea:
 
Back
Top