Ground question, water distribution, autopilot pump

[nzfisher]

In replacing the inverter on my 2011 Rt25sc I noticed there is no ground wire coming off the low voltage end of the inverter (there never was one). The manual says there should be one in reinstalling the new inverter. I would like to believe there is some reason that the factory did not include this ground wire. I am looking for advice of those in the know about this issue. Please advise.

Also, as I have everything out of the lazarette starboard I would like to make a new manifold of copper elements to replace the distribution of water with clamps and fittings. I will add port for mixer valve and water outflow valve to purge system in a less “cobbled together” system. Any thoughts on using copper here? Again looking for advise. New manifold would reduce parts by at least 50% and joints by 75%. Thanks

Lastly I am replacing GH10 autopilot pump (third replacement) and spoke at length with Garmin. They had no thoughts about why the failures occurred and thought the hose configuration from factory was ok. From info from other tug members I am adding the asymmetric hydraulic attachment unit to the head of the pump nd am still considering the pressure relief unit that others have used. Looking for feedback.

Thanks
Swims with Tuna

 

[knotflying]

My opinion on the copper is two fold and just based on my thoughts, with no research. I would think that in a salt water environment it will be susceptible to corrosion quicker that bronze, which is normally used. Also, on a boat you get loys of vibration and movement. Something ridged may be more likely to rupture. You may want to consider pex.

Regarding your inverter question: I have been curious about that as well. hopefully someone has an answer.

 

[Wee Venture]

I’ll second the recommendation for Pex. I plumbed our entire four bedroom house with copper and soldered joints so I’m very comfortable in working with it. But I’m a bit uncomfortable with the idea of soldered joints (either pipes or wires) on a boat. I know you can use Shark Bite fittings on copper but I don’t trust them to hold adequately on smooth copper pipe when it is subject to frequent bouncing and vibration. Maybe that’s just me. On a a boat I would use Pex. In addition to the points already made, Pex is a bit more forgiving in freezing temperatures (though it still should be protected). Also, it doesn’t hurt that it’s very fast and easy to both install and repair—whether using compression clamps, rings or Shark Bite fittings.

John

 

[BB marine]

In replacing the inverter on my 2011 Rt25sc I noticed there is no ground wire coming off the low voltage end of the inverter (there never was one). The manual says there should be one in reinstalling the new inverter. I would like to believe there is some reason that the factory did not include this ground wire. I am looking for advice of those in the know about this issue. Please advise.

Also, as I have everything out of the lazarette starboard I would like to make a new manifold of copper elements to replace the distribution of water with clamps and fittings. I will add port for mixer valve and water outflow valve to purge system in a less “cobbled together” system. Any thoughts on using copper here? Again looking for advise. New manifold would reduce parts by at least 50% and joints by 75%. Thanks

Lastly I am replacing GH10 autopilot pump (third replacement) and spoke at length with Garmin. They had no thoughts about why the failures occurred and thought the hose configuration from factory was ok. From info from other tug members I am adding the asymmetric hydraulic attachment unit to the head of the pump nd am still considering the pressure relief unit that others have used. Looking for feedback.


Thanks
Swims with Tuna

(1) You need a case ground attached to the inverter going to the battery negative post or a grounding strip that has an equal size cable going to the battery. The Kisae states equal to or minimum 1 size smaller than the ground terminal used to power the inverter. This is a requirement. The reason that there was not one installed before is someone forgot to install it.

(2) Use flexible plastic lines. They have been used for years in the marine industry without issue
(3) I would recommend using tee's and not the valve body to make your connections. This is stated in Garmin's installation manual.