Half-ton truck and C-24

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I noticed on the Cutwater website they show a 1/2 ton SUV towing a C-24. Is this a realistic option or do I need to think about upgrading my F-150 to a diesel once I get the C-24?
 
Well, the C-24 is showing with a dry weight of 5300 lbs. Fuel capacity is 116 gallons (around 800 pounds) and water capacity is 30 gallons (around 250 pounds). Throw in some gear and lets say your total boat weight is maybe 6500-7000 lbs. Total guess here, but lets throw in 1200 lbs for the trailer. Your total wet weight for boat and trailer is 7700-8200 lbs. While there are a few SUVs that can tow that much (GMS Yukon is one), that is VERY close to max towing capacity, and I personally would not be comfortable towing more than short distances when you are that close to the edge.

If I were going to potentially be towing at highway speeds, or more than 100 miles, I would want to have at least a 20% margin between max loaded boat/motor/trailer weight and max towing capacity of the vehicle. Those ratings are for perfect vehicles in perfect weather towing a perfect load on a perfect road - the real world is much scarier.
 
IMHO I think it depends a lot on how your F-150 is equipped. Some F-150 (say a 2015) have rated towing capacities of up to 11,000 pounds with GCWRs of over 16,000 pounds. Others with smaller engines have towing capacities that are much, much less and are completely unsuitable for such a task! Properly equipped, the right F-150 could be used as a tow vehicle for a C-24. Having electric disc brakes on all four wheels of the trailer would also be important. Having said all that, driver experience towing heavy loads is also important. Even with a well equipped F-150, good trailer brakes and an experienced driver, there is not a lot of safety margin here to work with.....
 
Having been in a situation with 3500 dually which was supposed to handle the weight of a 14000 lbs fifth wheel and needing a good breaking system, I really wished I had exhaust breaks at the time down the siskyous. While nothing happened except a some among breaks and the experience of using the gravel emergency stop lanes of the freeway, I learned my lesson.

My r27 is not that heavy but I replaced my truck with 6.7 diesel 2500 with included make breaks. Better safe than sorry.
 
I had a 25' C-Dory that I towed with the short wheelbase GMC Yukon. It was OK.

I have a Ranger Tug R25 classic cabin. I tow it with a 2011 Chevrolet 2500HD Silverado with the Duramax diesel and Allison transmission. My trailer has electric over hydraulic brakes. It plugs into the integrated brake controller on the truck. I set the truck to tow mode, switch on the exhaust brake, and I can't say enough about what a great towing rig that is. Have had one unplanned quick stop and never felt insecure. Towing on the freeway at 70 mph plus is a non event. 4 wheel drive is a necessity on some boat ramps.

My own view is that a diesel 3/4 ton is the best choice for these boats in the 24-27 foot range.
 
For sure a 3/4 ton is always better, but the Cutwater site does show a SUV towing a C-24. My F-150 is rated to 8500 lbs, so was interested in the factory's take on this. I have integrated brake controller in my truck.
 
Keep in mind, especially when towing with a 1/2 ton truck, that towing capacity is only one factor. Another factor is the payload capacity of the truck. Typical payload capacity is 1,200 - 1,500 pounds for a 1/2 ton pickup. Payload includes people, accessories, and cargo (including hitch weight of the trailer.) For example, my 2WD RAM 1500, a door sticker that shows, as built, a payload of 1440 lbs. If I subtract 600 lbs (my weight, my wife's weight, the dog's weight, and another 200 of aftermarket accessories and tools), my payload is only 840 lbs (1440 - 600). Trailer hitch weight is commonly 10 - 12% of the tow weight. In my case is would be borderline to tow 8,000 lbs of trailer load, unless I left my wife and dog at home!

Jim
 
...a cat weighs less.... :lol:
 
LOL, but if Momma ain't happy, no one is happy!

And regarding a diesel, this is often the choice for towing a trailer because of the higher torque. I don't know about the 1/2 diesel engines, but for other trucks, the diesel option might weigh a couple of hundred pounds more than a gas engine. It probably doesn't matter for the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks, but for a 1/2 ton truck, might have a significant impact.

Bottom line is that one needs to know the, as built, payload for any 1/2 ton truck to see if it makes an acceptable tow vehicle.

Jim
 
All good points about towing capacity and cargo capacity,

but you might want to closely examine the Ford Towing Guide for the F-150

The max tow ratings for each engine/gear ratio combination are only achieved with a weight distributing hitch. The stock factory hitch is only rated for 5000 lbs conventional.

I don't know about the other manufacturers, but maybe someone could chime in who has one.

We use an F-250 4x4 diesel 3/4 ton, and it's performed well.

I had an aftermarket class IV hitch installed that would support the weight of the boat/trailer for conventional towing.

Also, another advantage to a bigger truck is the STOPPING power, not only the pulling power.
 
Excellent, excellent advice here, voices of experience as always on the ‘Nuts. Sure, stay well below any rated maximum, quoting the above,maximum is for the perfect times. And Yes, towing is not about getting going, towing is about control and stopping; towing is about safe, trouble free, successful towing.

I’ve towed for over 40 years, from a VW bus towing an aluminum to Class A at 80,000 pounds to my current rig towing an R25. The goal is to always get there safely without incident, there's never a good time or place for towing trouble.

I’d say the picture of the SUV towing a Cutwater is at most to infer it can be done, when asked the factory would simply tell folks to check the rating of their SUV. I’d also say the Max rating of any tow vehicle infers the same, it can do it on paper but in real life only in a limited amount in perfect conditions and it won’t handle any additional challenges when they appear and the wear on the towing vehicle is going to be appreciable.

My current rig is an F-450 4X4 Crew Cab dually with a opened up 7.3 liter diesel. I purchased my R25 on a two axle trailer and upgraded it to a three axle which made a real difference! So now I run on 12 tires (in addition I also carry 4 spares) and 10 brakes, all disk and I’m thinking of adding an exhaust brake like folks talk about and also a system to monitor trailer tires as you go down the road.

I go a max of 65 on the theory that when something happens a good firm brake application quickly drops me to below 40 and hopefully will prevent me from leaving the roadway.

IMHO batteries and towing are the two most potentially troublesome areas of boating.

Boating is fun, towing is a chore and towing trouble is a pain!
 
One note here regarding towing speeds: trailer tires (ST) have a lower speed rating than the tires on your truck. Most trailer tires have a maximum speed rating of 65 mph. Driving beyond that speed will generate more heat and reduce the live of your trailer tires, even if the tread still looks good. When towing our boat or 5th wheel, we always kept the speed below 65 mph.

Even with that, we experienced a blow-out with the boat trailer and the 5th wheel - in each case, the service guy who came out to replace the tire (BoatUS Trailer Coverage is great, btw), said he rarely sees trailer tires that are worn out on the tread, they come apart from the inside due to heat. He recommended changing trailer tires every 3 to 4 years, regardless of the miles on the tires. And, he stressed that "speed and heat are trailer tire killers."

We use an IR thermometer to check hub and tire temps... at each stop.

I don't think I've seen a boat manufacturer that came in with an accurate all-up (boat/gear/trailer) weight.
 
James, I also check tires and hubs with an IR gun thermometer. The hubs are usually within 1 degree or so of each other. The tires on the sun-side are usually 10 to 15 degrees hotter than the shade side. The truck tires are usually within a few degrees of the trailer tires and span less than 5 degrees. Last Sunday, we towed our 25SC about 200 miles home at 65 mph, with an ambient air temp of 85F. Hubs were 100F, sun-side was 120F and shade side was 100F. That sound about right to you?
 
tlkenyon":1muah6qi said:
James, I also check tires and hubs with an IR gun thermometer. The hubs are usually within 1 degree or so of each other. The tires on the sun-side are usually 10 to 15 degrees hotter than the shade side. The truck tires are usually within a few degrees of the trailer tires and span less than 5 degrees. Last Sunday, we towed our 25SC about 200 miles home at 65 mph, with an ambient air temp of 85F. Hubs were 100F, sun-side was 120F and shade side was 100F. That sound about right to you?
Click to expand...

Yes, my experience has been similar with the temps being higher on the sunny side. Road surface and color (runs warmer on blacktop) affect the temp, too. If it is hot outside, I slow down a bit. I like to see the temps reasonably consistent on the hubs, tires seem more dependent on sun/air temp.

Electric over hydraulic brakes on the trailer makes for less stress when towing. Surge brakes and a long downhill grade are not a good combination (assuming engine or exhaust braking on the tow vehicle).

If trailer launching, I have always made it a point to let the tires and hubs cool down before dunking them in the water - seems that it always takes some time to unstrap and move gear, anyway.
 
Here is another thing people forget about towing, stopping! I can't say enough great things about having an exhaust brake and tow mode on the transmission. I went through the Black Hills, The Rockies etc. And I never had to touch my brakes going downhill. Just touch your cruise control to the speed you want, hit the tow button and the exhaust brake and you are golden all the way down hill.
My truck also has a sway control and once I had to slam the brakes because of an incident in front of me and the sway control kicked in and I stopped without mishap.
 
Air cooled,
I have used my 1/2 Chevy to tow the 24 around. I have a 11000 lb. towing capacity. I also have the bigger brakes and trans cooler installed.
Again it all depends on how your vehicle is set up for towing, along with the comfort level of your ability to tow.
 
Manufacturers love to tout maximum loaded trailer weight capability. However, the limiting factor is often the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), which is typically 6500-7000lbs for a half-ton pickup. GVWR is the weight of the vehicle, fuel, occupants, cargo and trailer tongue weight - pretty easy to get to with four occupants, etc. and a large-ish boat, even if the boat/trailer is way below the max. trailer capability of the truck.

CN
 
I took delivery of a new 24 with the Volvo gas engine. I purchased a new 2015 Chev Silverado 1500, with the Max Trailer Tow Package (~11,000#). I ruled out any truck rated under 10,000#, but did not want to get a 3/4 ton if I could help it. The GM trucks are "parkade friendly" as they are lower in height compared to the rest.

I towed the boat, with a full tank of fuel and probably 1/2 tank of water, from the dealer Port Boathouse in Port Alberni, BC, to Lions Gate Marina in North Vancouver, BC. This gave me an opportunity to experience most road conditions - windy, up and down grades, and freeway, as well as going on a ferry.

The truck performed well, and I did not feel it was pushing its capacity limit. However, it was certainly "working" - but totally within a comfortable and safe range. No problem launching and retrieving. The "Max Tow Package" includes transmission oil cooler, heavier duty suspension, and 3.73 axel etc. In my opinion, any 1/2 ton truck that is not equipped for max trailering, or rated less than 10,000 lbs is not suitable, unless for very short-hauls. Keep in mind, it is not only the trucks ability to tow in normal conditions, but to be able to stop safely etc.

Hope this helps!

p.s. Awesome boat!
 
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