Hanging Anode

[JusDreamin]

We got our C28 2018 two weeks ago and are very excited. We are mooring our boat in salt water and I want to use a hanging anode to help preserve the boat anodes and assess rate of loss. The best information I can find about placement is to attach it to the bonding system or engine. Another source said attach it to the negative pole of one of the batteries.

What locations are recommended, or used, for attaching a hanging anode on the C28?

Thank you in advance, I have been gleaning great information from this site for several years.

 

[Eric R]

The anodes on our C28 get eaten up very quickly. We are installing a galvanic isolator (ProMariner 30) and looking into a hanging anode as well. I hope to install the isolator soon. Our dealer told me that anodes on the C28 need replaced at least every 4-6 months in typical conditions. This was quite a shock coming from a Sea Ray where even annually they had barely been used up. That did have a Merchathode system, though.


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[knotflying]

I installed a galvanic isolator and also use the sacrificial zing clamped to a negetive terminal on one of the batteries.

 

[Captain Nice]

We had our 21EC in salt for one month using a hanging anode while moored connected to the battery negative post. The result: All boat anodes deteriorated approximately 20%; hanging anode, like new. Just our experience.

CN

 

[HRowland]

On our R27 I also installed a galvanic isolator and used a hanging anode connected to a battery negative post. With this combination the prop anode would last an entire season (late April - late October) in salt water. It would be about 1/2 eroded at the end of each season. While docked at our marina it was constantly connected to shore power. The hanging anode had very noticeable consumption, I would replace it every 3 years or so.
I used a hanging anode from Boatzincs.com, it is very substantial with 6 lbs of zinc.

If you do not have a transom anode then a hanging anode is pretty much mandatory if your boat is left in the water. There is too much metal to protect with just the prop anode, it will get consumed quickly.

Howard

 

[BB marine]

Having a galvanic isolator is going to help. Having the hanging anode is going to help protect the boats under water metal components. Having the hanging anode to be sacrificed to save the other anodes most likely is not going to happen. Each anode directly attached to the component it is protecting will be sacrificed more then the hanging anode. Using the clamping method of attachment is ok but it does not always insure a good connection. I think a lot of the problems with galvanic corrosion is do to the environment the boat is sitting in. One marina can be different from another. The Galvanic isolator helps if the marina shore power has issues or the boat next to you has issues. The wiring in your boat can contribute to it too.If something is not bonded properly or a connection not sealed or isolated properly this can cause stray current. It's a new boat, between Cutwater and the dealer, check sheets, and predelivery inspections the boat should be good. The marina is a easy check ask other boat owners on the dock about there issues with zinc deterioration. You may not even need the hanging anode. I would start with out it and add if needed. If you find you may need more protection then add the hanging anode and see if it helps insure good connection. Sometimes adding more anodes to platform supports , trim tabs, and rudder, helps. Remember you can over protect too.

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

All good info. Our R29S has 2 30 amp shore inlets so if your C28 does you’ll need to make sure, if you do add a galvanic isolator you add one that accepts 2 30 amp. I installed a ProSafe FS60. If only one 30 amp then a ProSafe FS30. I attach my zinc guppy to the same bolt that secures the transom plate from inside the rear of the engine compartment, which is also grounded. I zip tied the clamp to better secure it.

Jim