head noise on C 30s

A

AZtoVA

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2016
Messages
102
Fluid Motion Model
R-23 (Sterndrive)
Vessel Name
Scarlet Lady
On the boat today we were shutting things down. Everything went well but I kept hearing a slight noise from the head. It sounded like a pump. if we shut off the house battery switch, it stopped. What pump would run with switch on and not when switch was off? we were not using the head.

Ed
 
How much water was in the freshwater tank? When mine is basically empty my pump seems to run continuously, even with no faucets turned on. I have to turn the switch off to get it to stop.
 
Another option is the shower box pump. The float switch could have failed resulting in continuous running. Seems like a common thing e postings on this site.
 
The pump has a pressure sensor. If it draws air the pressure will not build up and the pump will run continuously
 
stwendl":3cfgerrn said:
The pump has a pressure sensor. If it draws air the pressure will not build up and the pump will run continuously
Click to expand...
Thanks. Can I access the sensor to test it?
 
You have a couple of things that may be the culprit. To zero in on which one I would do the following. Keep your house power on. Find the fuse for the shower sump pump. The domestic water should be a breaker on the 12V panel marked probably as water pressure. Make sure that breaker is off and see if the noise stops, if not pull out the fuse for the shower sump and see if the noise stops then. If it does your sump float is stuck.
 
Hey Knotflying, Yep that was it. How do I access the shower sump to fix it
 
Ouch. On my C28 it looks near impossible to access. Almost zero clearance between the top of the shower sump of the floor. I’ve got my fingers crossed I’ll never have to do it, but I’m sure the day will come. Definitely let us know how you make out with it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Once you have the screws out throw them away and replace with something you can screw in by hand. It’s a total pain to use the tool you linked to. I was able to find stainless screw eyes of the appropriate size that work fine. These can easily be turned with the tips of my fingers. You also can get by with just two screws on the diagonal corners. The lid does not have to be tight but does need to be in place as there is a spray upwards when the pump runs.

The screen in the box should be removed and cleaned annually at a minimum. This can all be done in 10 minutes or so once you have replaced the screws with screw eyes.
 
Red Raven, perfect! thanks for the idea
 
I took a different route. I cut the hot lead and installed a spring loaded (normally off) switch. When taking a shower we just push the switch until the water stops pumping. This is a usual setup on many boats. I figured she is just going to get stuck again, so instead of climbing over the mountain I went around it. You are lucky you caught it before your house batteries went dead. Many an owner has not been as fortunate.
 
Great Idea!

Ed
 
But doesn’t the ac drain in to the shower pump?
 
yes it does. that is why (I believe) the float switch got stuck. I have yet to take a shower on the boat. the previous owners have very little time on the boat so I guess the sudden condensation from both AC units did its thing

Ed
 
Not sure other than that would be a longer run
 
AZtoVA":26grix0a said:
Not sure other than that would be a longer run
Click to expand...

I would assume that they could just let an outlet hose run straight down and the water would work its way back to the bilge pumps.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

  • Tugnuts.com is the community hub for Ranger Tug, Cutwater, and Solara owners. Since its inception in 2008, the Tugnuts forum has grown into an active and thriving community of more than 9,000 members. It serves as both a meeting place for the best boating community online, and an invaluable archive of information.

  • User menu
Back
Top