Heat exchanger cap on R25

[D & C M]

I have just received my new 2010 R25, it has been in winter storage. Can any one tell me the trick to open the heat exchanger cap as it is hiden under the door step? Several people have tried to open it, it will turn alittle but we don't have enough room to push it down and turn at the same time. I would like to check the anti-freeze level as the over flow container that should be half full is empty! Or can I simply fill the over flow container and hope the heat exchanger will fill itself after the engine has run and became hot?
Dave

 

[abcandjrc]

Whether or not the heat exchanger will refill from the overflow bottle depends on where and how the coolant is being lost and how much of it is already gone. For instance, if the level in the heat exchanger is such that there is a lot of air in it, the air will just expand and contract and not pull water back into the heat exchanger from the bottle, or at least it will take quite a few heating and cooling cycles. If the level is still nearly full, then filling the bottle has a much better chance of refilling the exchanger.

There have been quite few posts lately about failed hoses on Yanmar engines. If you are losing water through a blown hose or a loose clamp, it would be risky to operate the boat at all until it is corrected.

Obviously it is much better to get the cap off and check the real conditions.

As to getting the cap off, R25 owners will have to comment on that. Did I recently see that someone did some major surgery to the area to improve access?

 

[John Shea Jr.]

There are two steel covers on the engine. You can remove the port side cover and you will have easy access to the cover. I had to add coolant once when the boat was new (2010) and not since. The cover appears to be mainly for looks and it is easier to leave it off.

 

[D & C M]

Thanks abcandjre and John Shea for your advice. I still had some difficulty removing the cap even after removeing the cover which was easy after removing the step in the cabin. It was a good thing that I checked the level as it took at least a pint of anti-freeze. Dave 😀

 

[JerryE]

Its a crazy solution, but in addition to taking off the two engine covers and storing them, if you want better access to the radiator cap you need to cut away fiberglass. BTW, the R25 with the Yanmar 150hp comes with the front cover missing from the factory as you'd never get it off otherwise. I'll eventually post some pictures, but take off the engine step and cut away the vertical lip of fiberglass for about 8 inches from the left side corner in both directions; i.e., towards the cave and also towards the head. This is about 1.5 inches and will allow your wrist to get in without bending improving your grip on the cap. Even so, it took me inside the boat and another guy in the engine compartment using our fingertips to get the cap on and off.

I'll be working on a special cap removal tool. I am thinking of a piece of PVC pipe with notches cut out to fit over the thumb tabs of the cap. If the pipe was a couple inches long one could drill holes through the top to fit a screw driver to incrementally turn it. Its amazing what you wake up at night thinking about! Course I plan to get rich selling this device to all you other R25 owners that could not resist that oversize engine–just like me.

But wait, there's more. You'll also want to cut away an inch+ of the floor under the step which helps you gain access to the impeller and belts. The cuts are all covered by the engine step and will help when your heater hose starts to leak and need to replace that. All this was done with Andrew's sanction to make life easier. I kind of wish Ranger had precut-up the fiberglass... I'm also considering cutting away 2-3 inches of the floor and covering it with a piece of Starboard, with a mitre cut to butt up against the Starboard lip on the floor in front of the cave. Niggling belts on and off and such should be a pleasure (right!) with less floor in the way. Who needs floor anyway!

 

[Stella Maris]

Jerry,
If you purchased your boat new, it should have come with a tool for removing the cap. If you do not have one, I would contact the factory.

 

[Andrew Custis]

The R25 does not come with a tool like the R29 due to allowed room to remove the cap. You can remove the cap and change impellers without cutting the floor which does make access easier. I can remove the cap and change an impeller the way it is now. On the current models, we have made this easier to access as we do learn over time.

 

[JohnH]

Could you folks clarify whether you are discussing the R25-SC with the Yanmar 150 or the earlier R25 model? I ask because I am considering the purchase of a new R25-SC, but I am concerned about engine access to the various necessary places, including the subject of your postings. I like the boat, and I am not trying to be critical, just concerned. For reference, I own and like an R21-EC, which, of course, has impeccable engine access but somewhat cramped living space for cruising.

John H

 

[none]

Andrew you are stating that the Ranger 29 comes with a tool to remove the heat exchanger cap.
I did not get one on my boat if I,m owed one Please send it along with Jeff to Desolation Sound. Thanks Jens

 

[rt11002003]

John H.,

I suggest you check the forward face of the engine for clearance to the forward engine compartment bulkhead on the R25SC. I looked the SC over closely, but was so impressed with how things were laid out in the SC compared to the regular R25, I neglected to check that clearance. I guess I was remembering the cabin step access plate on the regular R25 and assumed it still existed in the SC(does it?).

I've been intending to make another trip to Wefings Marine and check/compare the R25SC and the Lauren Green R25 that Marc has there. Actually, we were supposed to leave for FL on Sunday, but my cervical are acting up again. :cry:

Gene